Frustrated and need help!!!

[Roger63]

69 coronet rt, I replaced the antiquated EI with a petronix flamethrower 3 no problems. If I connect everything the way that previous owner wired it overcharges up to 16.7V see pic1.

My alternator has 2 field connections the diagram shows 1 field connection see pic 2

If I wire as the diagram shows in pic 2 it doesn't charge. What do I do?
Thank you

 

[RemCharger]

You have the wrong diagram for a 69 .
IF you have a new style electronic VR
IF the dual fields aren't shorted to ground
IF the VR isn't shot.....
Then it all should work with the first pic.

 

[Roger63]

New VR, New alternator but I haven't checked it to be honest. The wiring diagram is for a 69 coronet rt.

 

[RemCharger]

New VR, New alternator but I haven't checked it to be honest. The wiring diagram is for a 69 coronet rt.

I see, that connector for the 426 threw me off lol.

 

[RemCharger]

I just put a new electronic VR on my polara a while ago, it was overcharging right out of the box. Put a used one on that I had, worked perfect..

 

[Roger63]

My old original VR was doing the same thing which is why I put the new one on. I just went out and checked the field posts on the alt and it's reading .450 ohms to ground on the 200 ohm setting. I guess I will be swapping alternators tomorrow.

 

[Beekeeper]

Where did you get that schematic? the factory 1969 dodge service manual schematic for a hemi doesn’t look like the one you have. are using a 1970 up solid state regulator with the 70 up dual field alternator.

 

[Roger63]

Color Wiring Diagrams for Dodge Coronet & SuperBee

 

[Roger63]

Where did you get that schematic? the factory 1969 dodge service manual schematic for a hemi doesn’t look like the one you have.

It's not for a hemi, it does show some of the wiring that goes in a hemi car though.

 

[Beekeeper]

Ok I see are you using a 70 up solid state regulator along with the 70 up dual field? Also whats up with the purple wire on the batt connection? Is it the horn relay supply can’t see the other end.

 

[Roger63]

Ok I see are you using a 70 up solid state regulator along with the 70 up dual field? Also whats up with the purple wire on the batt connection? Is it the horn relay supply can’t see the other end.

Yes I believe it is, but I will confirm tomorrow.

 

[Beekeeper]

ok make sure the case of the regulator has a good clean ground to the chassis. The best practice is to remove the paint from the firewall and case around the bolt hole where the regulator is attached.

 

[RemCharger]

My old original VR was doing the same thing which is why I put the new one on. I just went out and checked the field posts on the alt and it's reading .450 ohms to ground on the 200 ohm setting. I guess I will be swapping alternators tomorrow.

Roger sometimes they put a metal washer on the brush screw to artificially ground one side for the older cars. If you have the new style VR, you have to reinsulate that screw.

There have been some threads on this with pictures

 

[451Mopar]

What Remcharger said. The parts stores are selling alternators with both field connectors for both the early style regulator and the later style regulator, but in the early versions one field connector brush may not be isolated and the screw just grounds that field. That is OK for the early regulator as long as you don't plug the regulated power to the shorted terminal. With the later '71 up regulator that has the triangle connector, ignition power goes directly to one isolated field, and the other field needs to be isolated from the alternator case so the regulator can control the field current through the ground side.
The regulator ground field connector is usually Green, and the ignition power is blue.
If you remove the green wire from the alternator field connector, the alternator should not charge at all. If it does still charge, than that field brush is grounded at the alternator.

 

[Darter6]

field connector brush may not be isolated and the screw just grounds that field.

I found that out the hard way on a 1970-up electronic regulator car.

 

[Roger63]

What Remcharger said. The parts stores are selling alternators with both field connectors for both the early style regulator and the later style regulator, but in the early versions one field connector brush may not be isolated and the screw just grounds that field. That is OK for the early regulator as long as you don't plug the regulated power to the shorted terminal. With the later '71 up regulator that has the triangle connector, ignition power goes directly to one isolated field, and the other field needs to be isolated from the alternator case so the regulator can control the field current through the ground side.
The regulator ground field connector is usually Green, and the ignition power is blue.
If you remove the green wire from the alternator field connector, the alternator should not charge at all. If it does still charge, than that field brush is grounded at the alternator.

On a ungrounded field connector does it matter which connector gets the blue or green wire?

 

[Roger63]

Ok I see are you using a 70 up solid state regulator along with the 70 up dual field? Also whats up with the purple wire on the batt connection? Is it the horn relay supply can’t see the other end.

Purple wire is to horn relay.

 

[Beekeeper]

maybe This will help you

 

[Roger63]

So I changed the alt and reconnected everything for the newer style alt. Same problem overcharges. Disconnected green field wire stopped charging.

 

[Roger63]

maybe This will help you
View attachment 1350443

Yes I have that one also thanks.