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I’m not positive, but I thought most factory cars placed this filter between tank and pump but with the filter as close to the pump as possible. This is where mine is now and no issues. I have it down low below the passenger fender apron somewhat away from engine heat. What you say about between pump and carb does make sense though.
From factory was between pump and carb
I differ on the orientation of the vapor port, IF it is a mopar designed one. I can't speak for the Wix. When I read the same thread, I quickly looked at my Year One vapor separator and made sure it was orientated correctly. I believe it is. Here is how the Mopar designed one should look. I don't know about the "other suppliers", but I know that Year One is twice the money, but research of threads on this site and others seem to suggest that the cheaper ones are not make the same. i.e. some without screens, some with to big of orifices, some not welded to withstand the vibrations. No complaints on the Year One separators.
thanks for that. I had no idea some of them internally would be different as well. How to know without x-ray or cutting one open if it's a good one? I guess in this case it doesn't matter if the return port is facing a particular direction? Do you have the part # for the year one part? Is yours between pump and carb or between tank and pump?
I don’t have Yearone part number, but it is the only one I recall them having for a Mopar. If you can’t find it, let me know and I will go through receipts. Mine is between the pump and carb and mounted on the pump as the instructions dictate. I don’t think it will solve the boiling out of the carb if it is beyond the pump (between pump and tank. Think of it, if you had a loop in and out of the tank and you came off the tank to the pump how would that get rid of vapor? It would have to go through the pump and then flow through the loop. Does that make sense? Yes, the pump can boil gas, but it pushes it through to the carb. That is why in order to start your engine after a vapor lock (carb boil out), you have to put the pedal to the floor and crank and crank until it starts and fills the lines and carb bowls. I can’t see where it would do you any good in front of the pump. Also, it is not to take the place of a filter. It has a screen, but not a 40 micron filter that should be between it and the carb. I also put a 100 micron out of the tank to keep trash out of the pump. Haven’t had a problem with running a 440 with 850 DP.
Here is the url for the vapor separators from Yearone. My car and engine is a '67 and I ordered the '68 one (first one). Don't really know the difference, but call them and they will gladly let you know. https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.b.body/air-.-fuel/fuel-filters/vapor-separator
Thanks very much for all of your efforts and info. I also have a large diameter 100 micron stainless filter back by the tank. The small vapor port filters we originally brought up are about 1.25” diameter. Is the year one vapor separator larger? It seems like it would be. What you say about vapor lock being addressed between the pump and carb makes total sense. I need to dig up the service manual to see how to locate it there.
From the 1968 Plymouth Service Manual
Yep, that is where and how it fits. Sure is a lot of hose in a small space.
Even more fun when you have an aftermarket hose barbed outlet pump with the fitting "inbound" (vs threaded for steel tube and pointing outbound), but doable. Got mine from Jeff Brown / 521 resto. It is correct internally. You can simply run a wire into the in and out ports to check tube lengths and the orifice on the vent line is visible as it's just the barb end welded almost shut.
If any of you want some ethanol resistant fuel line so you don’t have to replace it so often, check out Pegasus Racing and order some of their Teflon lined Aramid flexible fuel line. It’s pricey but worth it. Note that you would use normal clamps if it’s pressed on over the fittings like on these filters or vapor separators but if you want to connect AN style they sell special fittings for the ends of the hose. I have attached them and used them and they’re super easy to attach and work great. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3492
Going to install a vapor separator on the Dart, 360 crate motor. Obviously not original so I'm going with the Wix 33040. Not knowing the quality compared to the YO repro, should I keep the canister fuel filter inline between the pump and carb?
Definitely whatever you install needs to go between pump and carb. The thing you will need to verify is if the 1/4” return port has the .060” diameter orifice so the vapor can bleed off but maintain fuel pressure to the carb. If that inner diameter is too big you won’t have enough fuel pressure. Since reading that the others here had good luck with that year one separator I have since read other reviews of that online where the year one unit didn’t work correctly because of that issue. You’ll need to check whatever you buy. YMMV. I bet the wix pieces are good as most of their stuff generally is.
Check this out - this guy made his own by inserting a bolt into a hose and drilling the .060” oroifice and had good results with his ford motor. Chrysler addressed this a long time ago in the late 60’s as seen in the service manual but I wasn’t aware when I built my motor from scratch.
I’m going to install the wix vapor separator filter soon. I found this photo on another thread. Any reason why I couldn’t flip that 90 degree brass elbow upside down so the rigid line has a straight shot up to the carb? Of course I would make it shorter since the return line still needs plumbed down and back towards the rear. I also have read some people running the flow through this filter backwards so the return port is on the bottom and have had no adverse issues.
Don't know about running it upside down, but I wonder if the separator has to be that low or close to the fuel pump or if it just a matter of real estate in a hemi engine compartment.
I’ve contacted wix by phone and email and should hear back by Monday
If youre going to try and mount it up-side down as in your picture, you could blow into it and exhale back to see if it would be like a check valve.
Why didn’t I think of that earlier I just did that test and blowing into either inlet or outlet flows freely. Blowing into the outlet side didn’t feel any more difficult but maybe a slight less amount of air velocity existing the inlet port. I don’t think it will be an issue. I will see if Wix confirms.