Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
How are the gaskets under the venturis? I have seen wrong size, misaligned and pinched. That could be another source for raw fuel.
Fuel systems kicking my butt - now carb leaking
- Thread starter AR67GTX
- Start date
Speed shop didn’t have correct needles and seats so I reassembled everything carefully and tweaked a couple of area. I have a new theory - when I put new kits in the carbs the needle retainer springs to the float arm seemed excessively loose so I bent them to lightly grip the float levers. I suspect that this was an error and the needles were not being allowed to fully seat sometimes by the tight springs. So I loosened them up, tweaked the side clearance on one of the floats a bit, polished the float arms where the needle tops rub them, polished the float retainer pins, wiped off the needles and seats with a rag dampened with fuel, and out the whole mess back together. It started up fine and restarted fine 3 or 4 times in doing some vehicle rearrangement in the garage so keeping my fingers crossed.
I had to buy a new vacuum/pump pressure gage as the dial graphics on my old one were cracking and flaking off. When I get a chance I’ll hook the gage up to the front carb fuel line to check it.
There was a bit of fine trash in the fuel bowls when I poured them out over a clean paper towel. Thought that was odd as I put new filters on the lines when I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs. Where did it come from - new fuel filters full of trash??
I had to buy a new vacuum/pump pressure gage as the dial graphics on my old one were cracking and flaking off. When I get a chance I’ll hook the gage up to the front carb fuel line to check it.
There was a bit of fine trash in the fuel bowls when I poured them out over a clean paper towel. Thought that was odd as I put new filters on the lines when I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs. Where did it come from - new fuel filters full of trash??
R413
Well-Known Member
That was great you figured it out, so frustrating to go back in several times. That was the mistake. They are meant to be loose on the floats. Being tight was pushing/holding the needle sideways in the seat.
Looking in the factory service manual, or any carb repair manual, is doesn’t say to bend that needle clip tight to the float.
This next statement is not directed at any one person, just a general consensus.
This is a potential problem of everyone on these Internet forums wanting to “change” things and “upgrade” they loose sight of the basics.
So how do you know when to change things and when to leave it alone? Good question! Watch this video. Great story. If you want to save time cut to the chase and watch 17.27, and then at 26.37 car owners and their ideas. Two different ways of doing it.
I’ve got some guys that call me when their car doesn’t work and they always run through a list of expensive parts and kits that they are looking to buy. The just pass right over the basics, because they don’t know them, but refuse to listen at the same time.
Looking in the factory service manual, or any carb repair manual, is doesn’t say to bend that needle clip tight to the float.
This next statement is not directed at any one person, just a general consensus.
This is a potential problem of everyone on these Internet forums wanting to “change” things and “upgrade” they loose sight of the basics.
So how do you know when to change things and when to leave it alone? Good question! Watch this video. Great story. If you want to save time cut to the chase and watch 17.27, and then at 26.37 car owners and their ideas. Two different ways of doing it.
I’ve got some guys that call me when their car doesn’t work and they always run through a list of expensive parts and kits that they are looking to buy. The just pass right over the basics, because they don’t know them, but refuse to listen at the same time.
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Obviuosly you haven't saved any $$ not including your time doing it yourself. I would send it to a reputable builder, like Woodruffs who have the experience and parts and tools and skills to do it right.
They also flow test them and leak test them before returning to you.
Like anything else, the more you do something the better you are at it. And you have someone to blame if there is a problem...
They also flow test them and leak test them before returning to you.
Like anything else, the more you do something the better you are at it. And you have someone to blame if there is a problem...
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
Those retainer springs were not stock. They are included with some kits.
Not pointing at anyone either but some professionals are not that professional anymore either. You don't know who is actually working on your item. Plus, for some this is a hobby and doing it yourself can be rewarding. Even if there are moments of frustration.
Not pointing at anyone either but some professionals are not that professional anymore either. You don't know who is actually working on your item. Plus, for some this is a hobby and doing it yourself can be rewarding. Even if there are moments of frustration.
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Some mistakes can be very costly and dangerous as well.
Make sure you always have a full fire extinguisher handy and that has the correct rating for your use.
Really mandatory in anyone's workshop.
Make sure you always have a full fire extinguisher handy and that has the correct rating for your use.
Really mandatory in anyone's workshop.
[QUOTE="R413, post: 912153829, member: 30604" That was the mistake. They are meant to be loose on the floats. Being tight was pushing/holding the needle sideways in the seat.
Looking in the factory service manual, or any carb repair manual, is doesn’t say to bend that needle clip tight to the float..[/QUOTE]
Yes, that was exactly what I suspected. When I rebuilt the carbs, I cut the float drop back to spec - it had been way to much. There was so much slack in the replacement springs that they wouldn’t dislodge the needles at full drop. So, I tightened them up - but I over compensated and I think they did exactly what you described.
I’m retired and my hobby is working on these old cars - I have 4 of them. I try to do everything myself - body, paint, wiring, suspension, light engine mechanical, trans rebuilds, upholstery, etc. I have lots of time. And if it takes me a little longer to get there, that’s OK. Right now I have a nerve to my right leg pinched between L4 and L5 and I can’t drive any of them more than a couple blocks due to pain. So until I get that fixed I have even more time to piddle on stuff.
Looking in the factory service manual, or any carb repair manual, is doesn’t say to bend that needle clip tight to the float..[/QUOTE]
Yes, that was exactly what I suspected. When I rebuilt the carbs, I cut the float drop back to spec - it had been way to much. There was so much slack in the replacement springs that they wouldn’t dislodge the needles at full drop. So, I tightened them up - but I over compensated and I think they did exactly what you described.
I’m retired and my hobby is working on these old cars - I have 4 of them. I try to do everything myself - body, paint, wiring, suspension, light engine mechanical, trans rebuilds, upholstery, etc. I have lots of time. And if it takes me a little longer to get there, that’s OK. Right now I have a nerve to my right leg pinched between L4 and L5 and I can’t drive any of them more than a couple blocks due to pain. So until I get that fixed I have even more time to piddle on stuff.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
https://littlerock.craigslist.org/spo/d/carlisle-inversion-table/7427229789.html
Something like that, best thing I ever did for my herniated discs.
Something like that, best thing I ever did for my herniated discs.
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gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Same here.
I bought about a dozen of those fram filters last year. Lacquer thinner takes the FRAM ink stamp right off
Ive had no issues what so ever.
But Im not going too worry about the ' Correct ' lettering on them .
Cheap enough won't break the bank.
Cheaper than the filter and sticker all done, $42. not mine, help a CT. guy out. Met him a couple of times. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154818208720Similar threads
