Gearstar GM 4L65E 4 spd Auto behind 390 stroker (318 OE) .... BLASPHEMY!!!!

[VitaMeVas]

PREPPING/PULLING THE 727 (Part 1):

I slid the GearStar Tranny into the corner of my garage while I pulled out the 727 (for motivation)

Things to think about before you start getting tranny fluid everywhere. 1. Have a tail shaft plug to minimize fluid loss out the rear. I bought the Lisle Kit and believe I used the 1.600"-1.850" plug. Then I bagged and duct taped the plug in place after I removed the drive shaft and disconnected my exhaust from the long tube headers.

2. Disconnect the tranny cooler hard lines and plug them. I put some threaded bolts in the hard line and capped off the radiator connections. GearStar insisted that I use their tranny cooler for the 4L65E without incorporating the radiator cooler (due to it's age and possible debris in it).

3. Disconnect the Throttle Linkage from the carb down to it's connection to the 727. In my application, it won't be used. The US Shift Quick 4 and TPS Sensor will electronically control this. Here's the 68 Mopar b-body manual diagram.

The 'lower linkage bell crank' connection from diagram (above #7) looked like this on my car (below).

3. Disconnect the shift linkage. My shifter is on the column and uses a rod to connect to the 'Z-bar' as others have called it. **see diagram page below** Here's what it looked like in my car. **see below**

-- continued on next thread --

 

[VitaMeVas]

PREPPING/PULLING THE 727 (Part 2):

I attempted to preserve the 'Z-bar' setup initially, but when the new tranny was in.... the QuickTime bell housing was contacting the torque shaft (see diagram above) of the 'Z-bar'. I elected to go with a Lokar GM adjustable shift linkage (Part # LOK-ACA-1800) made for GM 4L60 transmission. **see pic below**

With the 'Z-bar linkage' removed, the Lokar setup made everything much more simple. It was well worth the $$.

On my 318, I have a 90 degree oil filter adapter because of the long tube headers. I had to remove it and order another gasket kit (3 pieces) to put it back. Below is a diagram of what it looks like.

Next, I had to support the weight of the engine while I disconnected the transmission. You can buy a cheapo metal thing form harbor freight or buy something nicer through a more reputable retailer. I had large zip-ties, clamps, and 2x4's laying around and used a 5' or 6' sling I bought from harbor freight rated for plenty of weight ($8). It was difficult to get in there, but worked and didn't budge for me. There was enough weight pulling the short vertical 2x4's downward that I only used the zip ties to keep them from sliding. ** I'm expecting some criticism here **

Prior to installing my 'high dollar' engine support, I invited a 'friend' over to help me pull the 727 bell housing bolts. The lower ones weren't too bad to reach. There are 3 bolts across the top (fun fact: the automatic 727 only uses the outer 2 upper bell housing bolts and skips the top center one). In order to get to the top bolts, I rigged up a couple A-frame ladders and put a couple 2x4's across to keep my fat-a$$ from laying on the manifold/carb/wires. My 'friend' was very silent during this process and I was wondering what the h3LL he was doing. Later he showed me multiple pics he took of my awkward bolt removal. Yes .... it was easier than laying on top the engine. Yes .... my ribcage hurt like h3LL. Yes .... it would be WAY easier if you removed the hood. I'm sure someone's got a much easier way to do this, but I got it done. ** insert criticism HERE **

At this point I put a transmission jack under the 727 and wiggled it towards the rear of the car and down out of the way. My 'friend' was helpful with this and the exhaust was in the way, but we made it work. I had to slide the 727 off the jack onto some cardboard to get it out from under the car (since my wheel cribs weren't quite tall enough).

**NEXT UP: FLEXPLATE INSTALL, STARTER SPACING, AND TRY #1 OF THE GETTING THE 4L65E IN THE CAR**

 

[Archie Duiker]

**Warning...this thread is currently under construction. I've gotten most of the way done, but am waiting for parts, so I'm starting the writeup.**

The 'WHAT': I'm putting a 4L65E GearStar built transmission behind my original 318 (390 stroker) engine to make it into a 4 spd automatic. The car is a 1968 Plymouth Satellite. Yes, I know about the A518 but they've been hard to find and even harder to find someone to build in Nebraska. Yes, I know about the GearVendor Unit but I didn't want to go that way. Yes, I learned how to drive a stick in my teens, but I wanted an automatic transmission so my wife could drive it when she wants. Having an automatic for my wife also means she's ok with me 'dumping' money into my project. *wink wink* Yes, there are lots of transmission companies out there, but I've heard good things about GearStar from word of mouth and television. I LOVE all mopars, but I'm not a 'purist'. If someone makes an electronic gizmo that allows me to monitor gauges easier/improves safety features/looks 'cool' then I'm all for it. I want my project to look 'old' but have new technology (I usually try to keep the gizmos hidden).

View attachment 1491327

This is the project before when it had the original 3 spd 727 and the front clip from a 1969. I've changed out the grill to a 68 grill but the side markers are still 69.

So....if you're a 'mopar purist' and want to say 'I told you so' over and over again .....this is the thread for you!!! I've had lots of hurdles and problems, but I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. If you've ever considered putting in a 4 spd automatic .....this is the thread for you!! This will let you know what you maybe in for. I'll try and include part numbers of what worked (and more importantly what didn't work) as I go. If you're a troll that just wants to piss and moan ....go somewhere else.

Af

**Warning...this thread is currently under construction. I've gotten most of the way done, but am waiting for parts, so I'm starting the writeup.**

The 'WHAT': I'm putting a 4L65E GearStar built transmission behind my original 318 (390 stroker) engine to make it into a 4 spd automatic. The car is a 1968 Plymouth Satellite. Yes, I know about the A518 but they've been hard to find and even harder to find someone to build in Nebraska. Yes, I know about the GearVendor Unit but I didn't want to go that way. Yes, I learned how to drive a stick in my teens, but I wanted an automatic transmission so my wife could drive it when she wants. Having an automatic for my wife also means she's ok with me 'dumping' money into my project. *wink wink* Yes, there are lots of transmission companies out there, but I've heard good things about GearStar from word of mouth and television. I LOVE all mopars, but I'm not a 'purist'. If someone makes an electronic gizmo that allows me to monitor gauges easier/improves safety features/looks 'cool' then I'm all for it. I want my project to look 'old' but have new technology (I usually try to keep the gizmos hidden).

View attachment 1491327

This is the project before when it had the original 3 spd 727 and the front clip from a 1969. I've changed out the grill to a 68 grill but the side markers are still 69.

So....if you're a 'mopar purist' and want to say 'I told you so' over and over again .....this is the thread for you!!! I've had lots of hurdles and problems, but I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. If you've ever considered putting in a 4 spd automatic .....this is the thread for you!! This will let you know what you maybe in for. I'll try and include part numbers of what worked (and more importantly what didn't work) as I go. If you're a troll that just wants to piss and moan ....go somewhere else.

Reading through your blog, it looks like this is becoming a "money pit" project, with all the extras needed to complete the installation. Have you looked into the Silver Sport 4 speed auto conversion for '60's Mopars? They claim it includes everything you need without butchering your transmission tunnel or anything else, and for the same $$ as the basic Gear Star transmission.

 

[VitaMeVas]

I punched out the 3/4" dowel pins and replaced them with 1" dowel pins because of the "Quicktime Backing Plate". It didn't leave much alignment pin left for locating the transmission. Then I placed the "Backing Plate" in plate and loosely installed the Quicktime FlexPlate (Part# RM-947) with 2 bolts into the crank. Immediately I could see that the location of the flexplate teeth (large gear) was WAY closer to the engine than the original mopar setup.

You can see (above) that the starter gear (at rest) is already engaged with the flexplate teeth. There was also not much space between the backing plate and flexplate (see below). There wasn't enough space to get the bolts in place to connect the torque converter to the flexplate.

So I made several calls to QuickTime who repeatedly offered no helpful advice. I contacted GearStar and this was new territory for them as well (which I didn't know when I originally ordered the transmission/kit. I was waiting to hear from the GearStar Engineers on how we should move forward.
After 1-2 weeks of waiting to hear back, I decided to make my own spacers for the starter to move it towards the nose of the car. I found that the original starter was going to need to be moved too far forward and would make contact with the headers. I decided to go with a mini-starter from Power Master (XS Torque Series). From talking with Power Master, I found out that the small gear of the starter should have 50%-70% engagement with the teeth of the flexplate at full thrust. I used some washers to get an idea of how thick a spacer I was going to have to make for the starter (below).

I found some aluminum spacers online, but they would cost $200 and still need fine tuning to get them to work. So I used some 1/4" aluminum and put 3 together.

Lots of cutting and grinding later ..... I had a rough version of my spacer.

A little fine tuning and the starter spacer was ready for trial.

 

[VitaMeVas]

I got the starter spacer mocked up in place.

At full thrust the starter gear was in 50%-70% contact with the flexplate gear. It looks like more because when I let go of the backing plate ... the weight of the starter pushed the backing plate and starter gear location forward (see below).

The whole time I was making the starter spacer I was also looking into 'why' the teeth of the flexplate were so much closer to the engine than the OE mopar setup. The first answer is that the gear that engages the OE starter is located on the torque converter itself (see 727 below). Then there was a simple flexplate without any 'teeth' that mated the crank and torque converter. I was not familiar with this setup. ** and all the seasoned mopar people say 'duh' **

Just for reference .... here's the OE 727 next to the GM 4L65E. The GM tranny is about 4 inches shorter than the OE 727 (looks different in the pic). I had also gotten the tranny cooler lines started on the 4L65E.

After much searching, I found another person who had gotten himself into a similar situation. Because the flexplate was so close to the backing plate, he had cut an access hole in order to get his torque converter bolts installed. QuickTime did advise me to keep the backing plate because it 'added strength to the bellhousing/flexplate combo'. So, I marked the spot where I needed access to the torque converter bolts and made my own 'access hole' (see below).

 

[Nxcoupe]

Ok, so why did you have to support the engine when removing a transmission? I must be missing something, because you let the trans hang down after you remove the crossmember and that makes the upper bolts easier to get to. That's what a trans jack or floor jack is for. Just curious.

 

[VitaMeVas]

Ok, so why did you have to support the engine when removing a transmission? I must be missing something, because you let the trans hang down after you remove the crossmember and that makes the upper bolts easier to get to. That's what a trans jack or floor jack is for. Just curious.

I see what you mean about using the weight of the tranny to tip the bellhousing down to gain access to the top bolts. That’s much smarter.

I knew I would eventually have to suspend the engine from above because I could only work directly under the engine or just behind the front tires (thanks to me leaving the exhaust hang). So I did it first and made getting to the bellhousing bolts harder. Ok… I’ll remember that for next time!! Thanks

 

[VitaMeVas]

AND SO IT BEGINS: Part 1

I took some rough measurements from the crank/flexplate mocked up and then how 'deep' the Yank torque converter was in the QuickTime bellhousing. It didn't seem like they would be close enough. So I slid the 4L65E under the car, got it up on the transmission jack and started wiggling it into place. I got about an inch from getting the dowel pins lined up when the 4L65E started touching the car floor and the firewall seem in a few spots. I marked them with a paint pen (see below) and 'massaged' those spots with a mini-sledge. I also bent over the entire seam between the firewall and the transmission tunnel. A few 'up and downs' with the tranny and all was clear. There was no need (in my brain) to cut/change the transmission tunnel.

I finally got the pins lined up and the 4L65E in place with plenty of clearance. I put in the 4 lower bellhousing bolts and removed my 'engine suspension rig'. I used a regular jack under the tranny pan to approximate level and all seemed good. On the QuickTime bellhousing, there is a large rubber access plug across the bottom that gives you access to the torque converter bolts (provided you have enough room to get them in!?). I looked up and this is what I saw.

I was told by GearStar that flexplate shims could be used to move the flexplate 'a little' so that you achieve 1/8"-3/16" space between the flexplate and torque converter. Then you use the torque converter bolts to draw the converter towards the flexplate until they're 'mated'. Ladies and gentlemen ..... the gap I had was between 1" and 1-3/16". So I took a moment of silence .... asked the Mopar-gods for forgiveness .... and grabbed a 'beverage'.

In my despair, I rummaged my brain for 'where I went wrong'. I remembered there being some 'weird spacers' that came in the GearStar box as well as something called a 'hub adapter' (see below).

I had to work the next day, so I called GearStar and talked with Ryan and sent him the above pics. When I asked him about he 'spacers/bolts' he said that when they put my transmission on the dyno for the break-in process .... they had to make these spacers so that it would adapt to the dyno. I made it back out to the garage and put the bolts/spacers in place. The bolts wouldn't reach the torque converter and there was still too big of a gap. I figured out the thread size and ran to Ace Hardware and bought the same bolts only longer (see below).

The above gap was between 1/4"-1/2". Close but no cigar. Measuring and installing these pieces all happened through the plug in the bottom of the QuickTime bellhousing .... so it was like working through a large keyhole. I used a pair of long calipers and was able to get a rough measurement of the space between the lip of the crank and the nose of the torque converter.

That measurement was 1.024". I sent all this information back to GearStar and awaited a solution from the GearStar Engineers. After a week or so, I got a call from Ryan (GearStar) and he said that I needed a crankshaft spacer between the crank and the flexplate to make up the difference. He found one made by JW Performance and had it sent ASAP (no cost to me ..... see below).

It's Part #80012 and mounts like this.

 

[VitaMeVas]

AND SO IT BEGINS: Part 2

Remember the 'other' part I got from GearStar. Here.... let me refresh your memory.

It is a Converter Hub Adapter from ICT Billet: Part #551165. For those who are unfamiliar (like me), it slides into the back of the crank (or in my case crank spacer) and then slips over the central 'nose' of the torque converter. It keeps everybody 'centered' so when everything is spinning...... there's no vibration/off balance issue. It mounts like below.

About 5 days later I had the JW Performance Crankshaft Spacer in my hot little hands and test fit it on the back of the crank. Perfect Fit and it was nicely indexed!!! Then I tried placing it 'through' the QuickTime Flexplate center hole, but it didn't fit. The QuickTime flexplate central hole was too small. When I talked with JW Performance about the issue they said that the holes need to line up 'perfectly' or everything won't be centered. So if you try and grind the QuickTime flexplate hole larger, but don't get it perfect .... that's not good enough. But JW Performance was eager to let me know that they also sell their own flexplate (Part #93009C) that works with their crankshaft spacer. It has the 6 holes for the small block mopar crank mounting and has the 130 tooth gearing needed for a GM4L60. I let Ryan at GearStar know and after speaking with the 'powers that be', GearStar ordered the JW Performance flexplate (no cost to me). I received it yesterday and eagerly await installing it.

So..... I can feel some questions arising. Questions like, "Did you know it was going to go like this?" or "Wasn't this supposed to be a kit?" Also ... "Were you given any instructions to follow for this?" And best of all .... "What past experience do you have with cars?" and "Are you an idiot with a bag full of money?".

Questions 1/2: When I contacted GearStar initially and told them what I wanted to do ... I was told that the GM4L60 to GM4L80 would be my best options. The 4L60 series had a better chance of fitting without 'major' tranny tunnel mods. When I asked how it went together, I was told that the QuickTime bellhousing and flexplate would make the system work but there could always be some issues here and there that happen when you Frankenstein different parts together. So ..... I expected to have some snags, but I wasn't expecting the 'gap' between the torque converter and flexplate. I was frustrated, but figured that the Real Men who started hot rodding didn't have any manuals or designed kits. They 'made it work' from junkyards. So I've taken it as it has come ..... and I'm still not at the finish line yet.

Question 3: I received one page of instructions from GearStar. It was pretty generic and talked about the expected 1/8"-3/16" space needed between the flexplate and torque converter. It talked about how to hook up the aftermarket transmission cooler and how not to "void the warranty". It said nothing about what has happened thus far. I will say that GearStar has been very good and returning my phone calls and trying to answer my questions .... but this hasn't been 'smooth'. I'm sure there are plenty of people who saw every problem I've had coming a mile away and are quick to criticize. They probably know 6 companies that sell a ready made 'kit' and have done 12 of them already. **Jeremy gives 2 thumbs up with a big smile ..... and DEAD SOULLESS EYES**

Question 6: No I don't have a 'big bag o' $$$'. I work, watch for coupons/sales, and save up money for projects. Sometimes I get lucky with a work bonus I wasn't expecting. Besides being a medic .... I help people work on their stuff and sometimes I get car parts in trade. I find mopar junkyards and grab what I can. I also sell older Jeep parts that I'm not using anymore. It all goes into my 'car fund'.

Question 4/5: My father taught me how to change oil, change a tire, and do minor repairs on cars from the 80's. My grandfather tried to teach me about carbs, but I wouldn't sit still and listen. Most of my experience is from finding original manuals, learning through error, reading on the internet (which is NEVER wrong ?!) and buying a 'lemon' of a vehicle (my first project truck was a 70 Chevy C-10) and having to slowly repair everything myself. I usually make a small mistake and have to start over ..... sometimes I get lucky. Sometimes I nearly kill myself .... and spend a few minutes praying to a higher power or my ancestors with thankfulness. I expect I'm not too different from some of you.

Most of all....I believe in shared knowledge. This forum has been a great resource for me and I thank those that have helped me. I also believe that mistakes are knowledge and should be shared too. If someone else learns what 'not to do' from me and can save themselves some time (or a finger) then it's worth it. When I'm done cussing .... I usually have to laugh at myself and move on.

Alright...... now let's get back to this S4!tShow.

 

[dcmason69]

Did you look at Silver Sport transmissions?
They have a complete kit 4l60 e

 

[Greg Ducato]

I think that you are getting close on this one. I have been through the Quicktime drill and it has its challenges, I even had a batch of starter shims laser cut which I think I still have.
In situations like this patience and attitude will carry you through, and you seem to have plenty of both. Thanks for sharing your story, warts and all.

 

[VitaMeVas]

Did you look at Silver Sport transmissions?
They have a complete kit 4l60 e

I did, but didn't go that way. I'm going to wait until the storm passes to make my decision.

 

[VitaMeVas]

I think that you are getting close on this one. I have been through the Quicktime drill and it has its challenges, I even had a batch of starter shims laser cut which I think I still have.
In situations like this patience and attitude will carry you through, and you seem to have plenty of both. Thanks for sharing your story, warts and all.

My children have taught me patience. 10 yrs ago I would've been pulling wrenches out of the drywall. I appreciate your comments and can't wait to burn off a set of tires sometime this summer…… or fall.

 

[VitaMeVas]

BACK IN THE SADDLE: When I began this write-up, I was waiting for the JW Perfomance Flex Plate to arrive. It did and today I put it in and get over the hump!!

Took the transmission out (time #3) and got the JWP Crank Spacer with JWP Flexplate installed ..... like so.

Then slid the ICT Billet Hub Adapter (551165) into place ....like so.

Then re-spaced the mini-starter with only 0.5" of aluminum spacers to get about 75% engagement. If it doesn't work down the road, I can add some 'fine' starter spacers to move it for less engagement.

Put the transmission back together (4th time) and look up the QuickTime Bellhousing to see this.

**Reader asks 'what exactly am I looking at?** The Yank Torque Converter (red) is on the left with it's steel colored
'snout' sticking forward. The JW Performance (with JWP CrankSpacer) is on the right with the ICT Billet Hub Adapter (also steel colored). What you're look at is the space between the Converter 'snout' and the Hub Adapter. It's a little over 1/8" or about 3mm by my eye. I looked up the ICT Billet Hub Adapter website to find out it's total length and notice that they also make 2 more for this conversion. One is 1/8" taller (551165-125) and another is 1/4" taller (551165-250). I called GearStar and sent them more pics, then talk with the 'converter builder', and tell him about the other parts that ICT sells. Since the Installation Instructions do talk about allowing 1/8"-3/16" between the torque converter and flexplate prior to tightening the (torque converter to flexplate) bolts so that the torque converter pulls towards the flexplate. That's about what space is seen in the picture above. The 'converter builder' informs me that you don't want the Hub Adapter to go too far onto the 'snout' ..... so the 1/4" taller part should be perfect! I talk with GearStar again and now it's on order (no charge to me).

And now we wait..... ......
....... again. **sigh**

 

[RoasterStrudel]

Cool conversion. I'll always like Mopar stuff, but the Mopar tax has always been high. Chevy stuff is much more plentiful and well supported in the aftermarket. Sounds like a great combination for a performance cruiser!

 

[VitaMeVas]

Well, it's been exactly one month side my last writeup. The longer hub spacer (ICT Billet 51165-250) took about a week or so to show up. Unfortunately, I had eye surgery and couldn't risk injuring my eyes ..... so I had to wait another 2 weeks.

I removed the GM 4L65E from the engine (for the 4th time) and covered both the crank receiver and torque converter snout in antiseize. When I got 4 bellhousing bolts in, I checked the alignment of the 4L65E (see below).

I was able to wiggle the torque converter to get the hub adapter in both the crank and torque converter snout. Then I inserted the 3 bolts (with machined spacers from GearStar) and connected the 2. It was much easier to spin the converter/flexplate since it was centered with the hub spacer. As I torqued it down to 270 inlbs, the 2 drew together about 1/8 to 3/16" as seen below.

Everything looked good, so I plugged up the lower access hole with the rubber plug and found a 1 1/8" solid grommet for the hole I drilled in the backing plate.

Next, I worked on getting ALL the bellhousing bolts in and tight. Refer to the backing plate diagram below for the 7 bolts that mate the engine/tranny.

Bolts 1 and 7 go completely through and have a lockwasher/nut. Bolts 2 and 6 were easily accessed to get tight. As some know .... hole 4 is only utilized in manual transmissions. On my 727 automatic, there wasn't even a place for a bolt to go in. On this QuickTime bellhousing, it has all the holes available. Unfortunately, despite trying MANY time, I couldn't get a bolt to go into hole 3. It kept acting like it was cross threading (yes I tried loosening up all the bolts and wiggling with a different bolt). I was able to get bolts into 5 and decided to use hole 4 and hope that it would be 'good enough'.
As 'Nxcoupe' suggested on #26 of this thread .... I tried lowering the tranny jack to get access to the hole 5 and 3, but I never succeeded. I had to go at it from the top again and now have it all tightened down (except hole #3).

I was overjoyed with getting the transmission mated to the engine, but it created an issue with the transmission crossmember. When the transmount was bolted to the 4L65E, it didn't land on the tranny crossmember. It was too far forward (towards the engine) and created a whole set of new problems.

 

[VitaMeVas]

A WHOLE NEW SET OF PROBLEMS (Part 1): The little Transmission Crossmember (Tran Xmem) that could **puff, puff, puff**

Due to the transmount being forward compared with the Tran Xmem, I started trimming away at my OE Xmem to try and make it work. I trimmed until there was nothing left.

.....And I mean NOTHING.

So I started searching the internet for any 'custom' or 'universal' styles of Trans Xmem. One call led to another.... and another .... until I spoke with the folks at Advanced Resources LLC (aka G Force Performance). They were working on a prototype that wasn't even in their catalog yet. My contact, David, said he recommended 2 adapter brackets and a low profile transmount that might help it work with the 4L65E, but of course couldn't guarantee anything. The pieces showed up and looked fantastic. They were nicely powder coated and made of 3/16" steel. David did say that I may have to 'modify' the bracket, but I was hoping for a little 'light grinding'. Soon after ordering it showed up.

I slipped it into place and put the OE bolts in place. The problem was that the transmount was still too far forward AND the transmission tail was smashed right up against the floor of the car. The two adapter brackets were of no help in my application. Pictured below is the Trans Xmem bolted up with no trans mount in place. The 4L65E was literally sitting on the Xmem and the holes clearly did not line up.

After further discussion with David, I asked if they could make the same thing only 2" taller (ie hangs down lower from the car). He said they aren't the type of company that could make a 'one-off' piece and recommended I modify the bracket. I went back and forth on whether I should make this work or return it. I decided to bust out my welder, some 3/16" steel flat bar, and go for it. At least the 3/16" thick steel was a helluva lot stronger than the factory stamped Trans Xmem.

WARNING!!!!! WARNING!!!!!! I AM NOT A WELDER. I'M A WANNABE NOVICE WHO OWNS A 110V FLUX CORED/MIG WELDER THAT CAN GO UP TO 1/4" THICK STEEL. I know the basics. I started by getting the trans mount centered on the Trans Xmem. I took a 1/4" thick plate of steel and drilled 4 holes. 2 to mount to 4L65E and 2 to mount to the low profile trans mount (see below).

Then I bolted the Trans Xmem (G Force Performance) to the transmount so I could measure how much I would need to extend the 4 mounting arms.

It turned out to need about 2" of steel added to reach the factory mounting holes.

 

[toolmanmike]

A WHOLE NEW SET OF PROBLEMS:



** to be continued **

You'll have that.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I like it. I’m building a ‘68 Plymouth as well. I have all the GTX trim, but I’m keeping the upper fender, door, quarter panel trim. I may paint it satin black to match. Also not going to use the fake wood dash. I have a .03 over 440, 308 18 spline 4 speed, and probably a 4.10 S-60 rear I got the engine and transmission back in the 80’s along with the car. I just have to get it together.

 

[VitaMeVas]

A WHOLE NEW SET OF PROBLEMS (Part 2): The little Transmission Crossmember (Tran Xmem) that could **puff, puff, puff**

So I started by cutting one of the 4 mounting 'ears' off the Trans Xmem, beveling the edges so I could weld both the inside/outside and bolting everything in place. Then I took some 2" flat steel and filled the gap, beveled the edges, held it in place with a welding magnet and tacked it. Took it off the car and welded the inside/outside of the 'ear' and ground down the award winning welds. Trimmed the steel to look somewhat like the original bracket and 'Ta Da'!

It took a lot of trial/error and patience, but I did them one at a time. Finally got to the 4th 'ear'. Did I mention I'm a f^c%ing surgeon with a flap wheel disc now?!?

When I had finished it, I did a trial fit. Then I ground down most of the powder coat and did the POR-15 paint with degreaser/metal prep first. Took 24 hrs to cure and let it bake in the sun for awhile.

Then I bolted the final product onto the car and everything seemed to line up pretty well. Here's a shot from the rear and one from the side with the low profile trans mount in place.

I'm not kidding when I say this was harder than I expected, but I'm this deep into it now. What else could go wrong??

**Jeremy sits down with a box of band-aids and a bottle of Tequila and breaths a deep sigh**

Anyone else wanna ask me if I've heard that Silver Sport Transmissions makes a bolt in kit??? I'm sure it 'falls' in, bolts right up, has a 100K warranty, gets you 50 miles per gallon, doubles the hp/torque, and makes your whites whiter too!!! I'm good..... I'm gonna see this $hit through to the bitter end.