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Gen lll Hemi pricing

68CoronetBob

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Just reaching out to get a feel on what a fair price/offer would be on a Gen lll hemi. I'm looking at picking up a 5.7 donor engine fir my 68 Coronet. Here's bit of info on it. 5.7 hemi and automatic trans from a 2007 Chrysler 300, 269,000km (not miles) on both. No issues with either so I've been told. The car is not a wreck the guy is just parting it out. What would be a fair price to offer him for the engine, ecm and trans?
Cheers, Bob
 
269,000 km is 167 thousand miles plus. I would look closely at maintenance records if available. I have seen ones with little maintenance begin giving problems between 125 and 150 thousand miles. If history is unknown I would only pay core values. The reality is nothing is better than how it's maintained.
 
Hey Jerry, I said the same thing to the guy that at that amount of KM's it's basically a core engine even though it's running doesn't mean it will be for much longer. In your opinion what do you think is a fair offer on engine, trans,ecm package?
Cheers, Bob
 
Hey Jerry, I said the same thing to the guy that at that amount of KM's it's basically a core engine even though it's running doesn't mean it will be for much longer. In your opinion what do you think is a fair offer on engine, trans,ecm package?
Cheers, Bob
Unknown history 1200-1500 tops. Plan on a minimum of a tear down and inspection of both. My gut tells me he is parting it for a reason. If it was running and driving it would have been worth more whole.
 
Unknown history 1200-1500 tops. Plan on a minimum of a tear down and inspection of both. My gut tells me he is parting it for a reason. If it was running and driving it would have been worth more whole.

Yeh I was starting to get that feeling too. He was trying to give me the whole car instead of just pulling the parts I was after but he already sold the doors and bumpers so I can't drive it home anyways. I don't have room to store another full car even though that would be my best option as I know there's other items I'll need for the swap. Thanks for a good base line number to start with anyway Jerry! Good thing is the engine/trans are still in the car for now so I can go check them out and hear it run, yard drive it and shift the gears before making any kind of offer.
Cheers, Bob
 
he already sold the doors and bumpers so I can't drive it home anyways.

Amateurs. :lol::canada:

iu-2.jpeg
 
Yeh I was starting to get that feeling too. He was trying to give me the whole car instead of just pulling the parts I was after but he already sold the doors and bumpers so I can't drive it home anyways. I don't have room to store another full car even though that would be my best option as I know there's other items I'll need for the swap. Thanks for a good base line number to start with anyway Jerry! Good thing is the engine/trans are still in the car for now so I can go check them out and hear it run, yard drive it and shift the gears before making any kind of offer.
Cheers, Bob
Make your price on getting the the complete ECM and harnesses. With a little time and effort you can make them work without having to go with an aftermarket harness. I'm sure it would be useful to have more of the electronics, but that's up to you.
 
I'd take the entire car so you can get all the door/window/etc sensors to complete all the ECM circuits...
 
Dont forget the gas pedal. I do believe they are drive by wire and you will be needing that.
 
I'd take the entire car so you can get all the door/window/etc sensors to complete all the ECM circuits...
I am leaning that way if I can store it somewhere? Quick question, If I'm not using any of the body control module for the power functions like power windows, locks etc why do I need the sensors? I am under the impression that I only need the ecm for the engine to run, tcm for the trans and then the gas pedal assembly for the drive by wire thing?
 
I am leaning that way if I can store it somewhere? Quick question, If I'm not using any of the body control module for the power functions like power windows, locks etc why do I need the sensors? I am under the impression that I only need the ecm for the engine to run, tcm for the trans and then the gas pedal assembly for the drive by wire thing?
I've never done one, but from what I've read here over the past 4 years I've noted others stating the thing don't work correctly without all it's inputs. Open door = warnings etc, so you need them in the circuit or something to simulate them. Need foot on the brake to put in gear, start engine, etc...
 
You might be better off just to buy the car for the engine, and buy an aftermarket harness, you don’t have to screw with the sensors and it comes with a gas pedal.
 
WoW!
This may sound simplistic but ~$1500 for wiring and brains for an engine?
To me that crazy, and I know I'm out of touch..
For myself, I'd buy complete car (salvage?) with much less mileage for the: engine, sensors, harness, ECM, etc... and sell there rest
Guess I'm an "old timer" and used to buy complete cars to ensure I got all the major components including all the bits and pieces that make it complete
Good Luck and look forward to hearing about your progress.
It's part of learning
Best,
 
I know that you can make the stock harness work along with the ECM and BCM, others on here have done it. There is a guy on YouTube who has put older bodies over newer Challengers (he built a Daytona for himself, a 71 GTX for a client and is now doing a 68 Charger). He uses all of the stock Challenger stuff but I do not think he replaces many of the sensors like open door and such.

I am putting a G3 Hemi (5.7) into the 71 charger I am building and I went with a Holley Terminator X Max harness mainly bc it is essentially plug and play without the hassle of rewiring a factory harness and having the ECM flashed.
 
Get gas pedal and plug,OBD2 connector also.get the engine and trans harness along with the ecm.split wire loom on body harness and get as much wire length from ecm connector as possible .get skim delete and downstream o2's and not much to getting it running
 
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I would be more worried about dropped valve seats. The early motors are notorious for that. Around here you can get whole cars with far less mileage cheap because motor not running right.
 
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