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Gen2 Hemi experts. Review my refresh plan?

That is so cool! Look how flat that power curve is. I love the sound. Looks great too.

What spring rate and pressures for the valves?
 
Thanks guys.

Looked back on my notes.

Cam is 262/262 .428/.421 lobe lift, measured .658/.612 at the valve.

Valve springs are 1.4" diameter PSI 1575, titanium locks and retainers. Intake 245 seat, 613 open. Exhaust 256 seat, 598 open.

Also used Trend .165 Single taper 3/8 to 7/16 pushrods.
 
Another question if you don’t mind. What ICL did you install it at? Thanks
 
I shift mine at 7600 and it feels like it wants to go higher
Mine feels like it wants to go higher also but didn't make anymore power or torque on dyno after that, so no sense to spin it any higher.
 
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Remember, area under the hp curve
 
No I don't mind at all, I'll tell you anything you would like to know about it :)

I installed it at 107 icl so

IVO 24
IVC 58
EVO 68
EVC 14
 
Just read thru all this one.

Great read guys. A lot of information ( almost to much ) for a novice like myself.


I intend to pull the engine in mine maybe next year or so. ( uses a little to much oil for me )

When i do i will ask A LOT of questions here.

The bottom end in my car has an old Kellogg crank. Which i see no reason to change . Its stock stroke .

Old mopar performance 12.5 pistons that have been cut down to something in the 11.2 to 11.5 range. And straight pump gas is out of the question if I have the timing up where it wants to be.

Mine is a real hemi car. I dont race the car and doubt i ever will. Hell......i rarely beat on the car at all. Its more of a cruiser than anything . So i am 100% fine with a pure stock build. A 100% true pump gas engine for me is mandatory when i do it.
 
One thing to keep in mind with older pistons is they rarely achieve advertised compression, so you'll need to CC everything and calculate it. Compression may be much less than you think making 93 octane a possibility.

Also, there's power, oil control and engine longevity to be had with thinner more modern ring packs than the old stuff.

bxU2Do.jpg
 
Thanks,
Im going off info the guy who built it back then. Ive known him for 30 years and trust in his thoughts of where the compression is now to be fairly accurate .

I plan to pull the engine down at some point,,,,,,sooner than later . And will decide then what to do at that time

He built a 340 for me years ago that ran amazing. And a big part of me thinks I will take the hemi back to him when Im ready . As I truly believe the issues it has are not his fault.
 
438ci, 12.4-1, Holley EFI, home ported iron heads, coyote coil on plug. Mild solid roller, 262/262 I think .670/.615 on a 112 (drives smooth). Flex fuel/E85.
What’s the pinout on the Coyote coils and how did you configure it in the Holley? I’m using the Holley coils and like the cleaner look you have going on.

5B4350F6-9CC8-4070-B665-84040B3979BD.jpeg
 
Nice engine bay, I am a fan of symmetry.

Not sure what you have for horsepower but with what looks like forced induction and 2 injectors per cylinder I'll guess a lot.

You're probably better off functionally keeping the smart coils.

Not sure if the stock coyote coils would light that off.

But to do so you need two 554-112 coil drivers. The inputs to the drivers get pinned to their respective cylinders at the ecu.

J1-B21 1
J1-B15 2
J1-B22 3
J1-B16 4
J1-B23 5
J1-B17 6
J1-B24 7
J1-B18 8


On the output side of the drivers, I used a coyote coil harness, pulled out the pins and pinned them directly to the output driver connectors (to get the correct firing order at the coils vs how they are pinned for coyote).

Also need 2 ford ignition capacitors that plug into the coil harness.
 
Nice engine bay, I am a fan of symmetry.

Not sure what you have for horsepower but with what looks like forced induction and 2 injectors per cylinder I'll guess a lot.

You're probably better off functionally keeping the smart coils.

Not sure if the stock coyote coils would light that off.

But to do so you need two 554-112 coil drivers. The inputs to the drivers get pinned to their respective cylinders at the ecu.

J1-B21 1
J1-B15 2
J1-B22 3
J1-B16 4
J1-B23 5
J1-B17 6
J1-B24 7
J1-B18 8


On the output side of the drivers, I used a coyote coil harness, pulled out the pins and pinned them directly to the output driver connectors (to get the correct firing order at the coils vs how they are pinned for coyote).

Also need 2 ford ignition capacitors that plug into the coil harness.
It made 900whp on 93 octane at 5500rpm before we had a water pump issue shut us down. It makes a ton more once it gets over 6000rpm according to the butt dyno. I’d guess 1250 at the tire or so. It’s been 5.75@126 in the 1/8 at 3950# but it’s only at 17psi so far.
 
Made a few changes :)

Added HVH 1/2" spacers under the throttle bodies

Changed stock diameter lower pulley to ASP underdrive (it was blowing belts into low earth orbit) Way too much pulley ratio for the rpm.

Switched from 20w-50 Brad Penn to 5w-30 Royal Purple XPR. Also changed to synthetic trans and diff fluid.

Rebuilt tailpipes (they got smashed) with the largest radius bends I could fit.

Last thing that I'm sure made a difference to the results was removing 15x10 steel wheels and replaced with W23-ish 15x10 aluminum wheels.

Made quite a difference! Feels awesome on the street.

Jim.jpg


 
Curious to know your thoughts prompting the oil change and the data comparison from afterwards.
 
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