Going to tackle the UCA's and strut rods what do I need to know?

[bigmanjbmopar]

Ok guys, I going to have to save a buck and tackle the UCA's and QA1 adjustable strut rods myself, Already have the RSD disk brake conversion done prior now upgrading some suspension stuff also going to swap out the disk rotors to drilled and slotted ones I got off pirate Jack.

What are the hurdles here? Will a jack stand be good enough to support the LCA? will I have to take out the torsion bar? How much room will I need? doing this in my garage by the way.. :/

Had Big 0 tires do an alignment for me a couple of months ago and it's still under warranty so after I get these parts on they said they will readjust everything for me

 

[Riverdawg]

If I remember correctly I had to have the LCA's loose to get the QA1 adjustable strut rods on. I had everything apart because I bought most of what 65roadracer had from his first upgrade, he is now running full tubular front with coilovers and rack&pinion. I too did this in my garage and with only jackstands and a jack.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

If I remember correctly I had to have the LCA's loose to get the QA1 adjustable strut rods on. I had everything apart because I bought most of what 65roadracer had from his first upgrade, he is now running full tubular front with coilovers and rack&pinion.

How loose? Do you mean not supported very much so there is up and down travel or?

 

[1967coronet440]

Did mine on jack stands, suspension hanging. I did LCA’s UCA’s and qa1 strut rods it’s a fairly simple install.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I think i need jack stands under the LCA's to support them when the LCA and spindle come apart right?

 

[mmissile]

Patience. It's all nuts and bolts. It's all very simple stuff, but bigger and heavier. One you have it that far apart....I'd rebuild/refinish everything. It seems like I do a complete front-end, every year.

 

[1967coronet440]

I think i need jack stands under the LCA's to support them when the LCA and spindle come apart right?

I’ll let someone else answer that, I did mine when there was no drivetrain in the car, was supported by 4 jack stands on the frame rails

 

[Riverdawg]

How loose? Do you mean not supported very much so there is up and down travel or?

I had everything apart (front suspension) including the torsion bars. I did tubular LCA & UCA, same strut rods, disc conversion, PST sleeves. Haven't put the sway bar on yet. I do remember having the LCA and torsion bar partly together and having to pull them back apart to put the strut rod in. I had to use the jack to assist with the suspension because the car was on the 4 jackstands at the time. I'm sure other much more experienced members will chime in as I consider myself a novice compared to most on FBBO.

 

[Yatzee]

Ok guys, I going to have to save a buck and tackle the UCA's and QA1 adjustable strut rods myself, Already have the RSD disk brake conversion done prior now upgrading some suspension stuff also going to swap out the disk rotors to drilled and slotted ones I got off pirate Jack.

What are the hurdles here? Will a jack stand be good enough to support the LCA? will I have to take out the torsion bar? How much room will I need? doing this in my garage by the way.. :/

Had Big 0 tires do an alignment for me a couple of months ago and it's still under warranty so after I get these parts on they said they will readjust everything for me

1- Support the car on jack stands under the K member
2- Remove everything from the front spindles
3- Remove the inner fender wells if this applies - lots more room to work
4- Remove all load off the torsion bars allowing the suspension to hang
5- Tear it down and rebuild.
*Note Make sure the alignment shop does not use the strut rods to fine tune toe by pulling
or pushing on the LCA's

 

[andyf]

Ok guys, I going to have to save a buck and tackle the UCA's and QA1 adjustable strut rods myself, Already have the RSD disk brake conversion done prior now upgrading some suspension stuff also going to swap out the disk rotors to drilled and slotted ones I got off pirate Jack.

What are the hurdles here? Will a jack stand be good enough to support the LCA? will I have to take out the torsion bar? How much room will I need? doing this in my garage by the way.. :/

Had Big 0 tires do an alignment for me a couple of months ago and it's still under warranty so after I get these parts on they said they will readjust everything for me

Get yourself a service manual and follow the instructions in there. No shame in using the service manual. I've been working on Mopar cars for 40 years and I still keep a service manual open on the bench for every job I tackle.

 

[Riverdawg]

Get yourself a service manual and follow the instructions in there. No shame in using the service manual. I've been working on Mopar cars for 40 years and I still keep a service manual open on the bench for every job I tackle.

You are so right. I picked one up from a FBBO member and kept referring during the whole front rebuild.

 

[451Mopar]

Ok guys, I going to have to save a buck and tackle the UCA's and QA1 adjustable strut rods myself, Already have the RSD disk brake conversion done prior now upgrading some suspension stuff also going to swap out the disk rotors to drilled and slotted ones I got off pirate Jack.

What are the hurdles here? Will a jack stand be good enough to support the LCA? will I have to take out the torsion bar? How much room will I need? doing this in my garage by the way.. :/

Had Big 0 tires do an alignment for me a couple of months ago and it's still under warranty so after I get these parts on they said they will readjust everything for me

If doing the upper ball joints, they take a special socket and can be difficult to remove, but a good impact has worked for me. The upper control arm bushings need to be pressed out.
I use the OTC Tools ball joint kit. It is like a large heavy duty "C" clamp.

I have QA1 strut rods, but installed them with the lower control arms, so I don't know if they can be installed with the lower control arm bolted to the K-member?
If removing the lower control arm, you don't "need" a torsen bar driving tool because you can use the LCA to drive the bar back and out, but the tool is nice to have.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

If doing the upper ball joints, they take a special socket and can be difficult to remove, but a good impact has worked for me. The upper control arm bushings need to be pressed out.
I use the OTC Tools ball joint kit. It is like a large heavy duty "C" clamp.

I have QA1 strut rods, but installed them with the lower control arms, so I don't know if they can be installed with the lower control arm bolted to the K-member?
If removing the lower control arm, you don't "need" a torsen bar driving tool because you can use the LCA to drive the bar back and out, but the tool is nice to have.

Nothing that involved, the new SPC double adjustable UCA's come with replaceable thread in ball joint its pretty cool actually. http://www.manciniracing.com/bebofuadupco.html

Also they come with new bushings and bolts so no more offset camber bolt.

Won't be replacing the torsion bars just the strut rods so I'm hoping it's just a bolt off bolt in application wondering if I should do that first while everything is under load?

 

[ckessel]

If you end up needing to drop out the t-bars, watch my video on youtube about taking them out. The one by Roll Another One Fabrications. No special tools required.

 

[aeon280]

Nothing that involved, the new SPC double adjustable UCA's come with replaceable thread in ball joint its pretty cool actually. http://www.manciniracing.com/bebofuadupco.html

Also they come with new bushings and bolts so no more offset camber bolt.

Won't be replacing the torsion bars just the strut rods so I'm hoping it's just a bolt off bolt in application wondering if I should do that first while everything is under load?

So I just did this a couple of months ago. If using the SPC uppers than make sure you have at least 3/4 inch thread showing on each end of the adjuster before you put them on. My first attempt I just put them on with the length they arrived at and I had severe Negative camber. I also did the QA1 strut rods but i took it all apart because I installed qa1 LCA, and new PST torsion bars at the same time. You probably can get them on by loosening the LCA nut all the way then pull the torsion bar clip under the car. Then with the suspension at full drop use a deadblow and smack the LCA a few times towards the back of the car. That should give you enough clearance to get the old strut rod out and the new one in. Once you get the new strut rod in and loosely aligned, tighten the LCA and torsion bar back in place . With everything back in place you can now jack up the suspension and adjust the strut rod as needed so that there is no binding at the pivot point throughout the suspension travel. Once its properly aligned with no binding, torque it down.

 

[JG1966]

I re-did my front end (UCAs, LCAs, ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, all bushings, etc.), and without the FSM (downloaded for free off Mymopar), I would've been lost.
I highly recommend referring to it.
Certain bolts must be torqued with full weight on wheels (front strut rod bolt, pivot shaft bolt, etc.) and they tell you in big bold letters that Upper ball joints are easily misthreaded! Ain't that the truth. MMissle is right. It's all nuts and bolts. With a FSM, it's a breeze. I did buy a $40 torsion bar remover, which made life easier. But I did mine with relatively no problems, and I was a suspension novice before hand.

 

[451Mopar]

OK, did not know you were doing new upper control arms. Helped align a friends '67 barracuda that has the SPC upper control arms. That is alot of adjustments for the alignment shop.