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Good news and BAD news - oil pressure gauge install on my 440

Yea I hear you, I installed all autometer carbon fiber gauges in my wife's car, pulling the cluster and redoing the oil psi gauge would be a major pita... I figure I can try to bleed it and clean the mess up easier that pulling the cluster!
 
Most copper line brakage is due to lack of coiling the copper between engine and firewall. The coil absorbs vibration and movement. A straight line will vibrate and snap off.
 
I'm thinking the braided sounds like a good plan to me.
Of course, if I go that route, I'll have more invested in the line than in the gauge. :lol:

P.S. I'm still grinning...
 
Nice news. I prefer mechanical gauges for everything. I have the opposite problem, I have 80 psi cold and 45 hot at 500rpm in gear. tight clearances in the rebuild but it runs good so I dont stress about it and drive daily. your indicated pressure is great.

The nosing over in 3rd gear is still a mystery.
 
Nice news. I prefer mechanical gauges for everything. I have the opposite problem, I have 80 psi cold and 45 hot at 500rpm in gear. tight clearances in the rebuild but it runs good so I dont stress about it and drive daily. your indicated pressure is great.

The nosing over in 3rd gear is still a mystery.
Yep.
Funny how that's where all this started - with that fuel starvation (at least, I think that's what it is) thing. Quite a tangent from a seemingly innocent notion of installing additional gauges....

Something still isn't quite right about this engine, but so far at least, nothing is quite wrong enough about it to warrant replacement, either - at least, on what's left of my shoestring budget, so I drive it until it forces my hand. :)
 
I have installed many aftermarket under dash oil pressure gauges and do not ever recall needing to or being told to bleed them, current gauge included.
 
I have installed many aftermarket under dash oil pressure gauges and do not ever recall needing to or being told to bleed them, current gauge included.
Thanks! That's the kind of feedback I need to hear!
 
I just went through the whole installation of the electric one again (no sealant on threads anywhere this time), "hard" grounded it to the chassis and made sure everything is kosher on the install.
Results: POS gauge or sending unit is still half-assed wrong, reading 25psi stubbornly, refusing to climb any higher.:mad:

Just contacted Summit - their customer service was STELLAR as always. They've refunded the price of the gauge and applied it towards my new Russell braided 4-AN gauge hose kit, which I will use to permanently mount my mechanical gauge once the hose comes in. :thumbsup:

At least I played this somewhat smart - when I fetched the mechanical gauge, I made sure it was the type that would directly mount in the same under-dash bracket as the electric one, so it'll mount right up. I've even gone and wired up the gauge light, which will pop right out of the bad gauge and right into the mechanical one.

My long oil pressure gauge national nightmare is almost over. :lol:
 
No need to bleed the gauge. I use braided line directly to one of the rear oil ports. Also never use a torque wrench as a power bar...they're not meant to loosen bolts.
 
Well, crap.
I was buttoning everything up under the dash after all this gauge wiring stuff - and I even found the long-lost wire that goes to the switch on the emergency brake and plugged it up (it works!) and all of a sudden I noticed my dome/map lights weren't on anymore.
I'd been in and out of both doors dozens of times and I'm always mindful that they close enough to turn off the inside lights, too.
Fired the engine up and went thru all switches on the dash and everything else, including all the new gauge stuff, works fine. Instrument panel lights are fine, all lights/ flashers ok.

No idea what's happened here. Damn, ain't that how it goes?

I checked the fuse for dome light/cigar lighter circuit. It checked ok, looked fine.
I pulled the fuse box loose, checked out everything behind, verified 12V getting to the dome light circuit.
Both bulbs check good.
Both door switches looked ok when I pulled them out, too, although I didn't get any continuity or voltage at either. Is that right?

I'm trying to read the wiring diagram. What a mess.
I know my dimmer switch is new (and expensive!), but something is telling me to go in after it.

EDIT:
I'm an idiot. Chased this "problem" for hours today! Sheesh.
After having some dinner, taking a shower (it got to 100F here today and I was out in it for hours!) and passing out in my chair for a while, I woke up to the revelation that it might be a good idea to try the cigar lighter to see if it had power, since it's on the same circuit.
Tried it. Nope, no power.
Hmmm, I know 12V checks out as going to that circuit and I know the fuse checked out good for continuity...
I grab a pair of needlenose, climb up under that $%#$%^ dash one more time and jump the fuse with them....

....interior lights came right on. :BangHead:

Kindly disregard my stupidity.
 
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I paid closer attention to my oil pressure today going to a car show.
25 psi @ idle and 45 psi @ cruise (at operating temperature).

P.S.
I edited post #14 to correct those numbers for future reference.
 
Never bleed mine Ed, My 383 is running the same lbs. 25 idle 50 @ road speed 190temp
15/40 oil, Heck with copper line you cant see if you have air or not. :thumbsup:
 
I paid closer attention to my oil pressure today going to a car show.
25 psi @ idle and 45 psi @ cruise (at operating temperature).

P.S.
I edited post #14 to correct those numbers for future reference.

Never bleed mine Ed, My 383 is running the same lbs. 25 idle 50 @ road speed 190temp
15/40 oil, Heck with copper line you cant see if you have air or not. :thumbsup:
Oh sure, NOW y'all show up, telling me 25psi is ok. :lol:
Thankfully, I didn't go off the deep end after the electric one said 25psi (and never went above that, regardless of RPM). Wanted to KNOW something was wrong before I gave up on the old girl.
Mechanical gauge to the rescue - and that same el cheapo Bosch mechanical gauge will be installed when the kind folks at Summit send me my braided hose.
Heck, they don't even want the electric one back!!
I love those folks. They do business right.
 
By the way, for you folks who advised on using a braided steel line for interior installation of a mechanical gauge, this'n is what I fetched:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640720
Fancy, yeah I know, right? :D
I'm getting it for the difference in price for the refund on the electric gauge.

Y'all know this means I will have spent more on the hose than on the gauge, right?:lol:
 
No need to bleed the gauge. I use braided line directly to one of the rear oil ports. Also never use a torque wrench as a power bar...they're not meant to loosen bolts.
Yep, what I'm doing.
Re: Torque wrench. Hey, it's what I had available. Job got done. :)
 
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