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Guys too many threads to search need help!

Yes if the speedometer works.. then the transmission gear is not installed properly. The "gear" holder has to be oriented to match the # of teeth on the gear. # of teeth locations are marked on the front face. The correct tooth count number has to be lined up with the mark on the housing.
View attachment 1353284
I know I have seen a chart somewhere I have 3:23 gear and 15in wheels. 275 60 on rear and 225 70 on front. Checking mark it is on now.
 
I know I have seen a chart somewhere I have 3:23 gear and 15in wheels. 275 60 on rear and 225 70 on front. Checking mark it is on now.
Looks like mine is on 39-45?

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Ok Bee here is where it stands. I have checked out circuits from round pin connector and all checks out. I did install new fusible link which of wouldn’t make a difference but had to be done. I grounded temp wire and fuel wire with key on again and nothing happens. It has to be built in limiter and it makes me so mad!! Brand new everything and I am in a pickle, do not want to remove glass to get the dash out and it will be almost impossible to change circuit board without damaging a really expensive dash resto trying to get cluster out. Either I run with no fuel or temp or have to attempt cluster pull.

Onto something else for now. I pulled speedo from tranny and everything looks correct but still have no speedo function. It is a new speedo cable and it worked prior to sending dash out so I assume correct speedo gear. I wiggled back in and double checked engagement at dash. Anything else I can try? Also order new backup harness could not get continuity through harness but has signal at switch.
That’s stinks but let’s not pull the cluster just yet can you get to the round pin connector to disconnect it?
 
Looks like mine is on 39-45?

View attachment 1353290
You will need to know what tooth count speedometer gear you have in there. 39-45 position is for 39 to 45 tooth speedometer gears. You would need to drain the trans and pull it the gear and gear holder and at this point you probably need to inspect the gear teeth anyway.
 
That’s stinks but let’s not pull the cluster just yet can you get to the round pin connector to disconnect it?
Yes I can get to it just really difficult to pull. It is tight but I can get to it.
 
You will need to know what tooth count speedometer gear you have in there. 39-45 position is for 39 to 45 tooth speedometer gears.
Based on the charts I have found I will need a 31 or 32 tooth count gear.
 
Yes I can get to it just really difficult to pull. It is tight but I can get to it.
Ok great so unplug it and find the dark blue with tracer wire in the connector and with the key on test for 12 volts on that wire at the connector and post back with the results.
 
Ok great so unplug it and find the dark blue with tracer wire in the connector and with the key on test for 12 volts on that wire at the connector and post back with the results.
Ok will do. May take a bit but will let you know.
 
Ok great so unplug it and find the dark blue with tracer wire in the connector and with the key on test for 12 volts on that wire at the connector and post back with the results.
Having trouble getting any leverage to unplug. If I can get probe to touch that wire can I leave plugged in and get reading?
 
Ok I did get 12v at that wire
Ok that checks out and that is the feed to the voltage limiter. Could you next (just to verify) ground the oil sending unit wire and see if the oil warning lamp lights up.
 
Ok that checks out and that is the feed to the voltage limiter. Could you next (just to verify) ground the oil sending unit wire and see if the oil warning lamp lights.
Oil light works when key is on
 
Oil light works when key is on
Ok so that double verifies the voltage on the dark blue with tracer. I think there could very well like you said be a problem with that so called improved limiter. I know you don’t want to remove it but I think your gonna need to pull the cluster out.
 
Ok so that double verifies the voltage on the dark blue with tracer. I think there could very well like you said be a problem with that so called improved limiter. I know you don’t want to remove it but I think your gonna need to pull the cluster out.
Oh man my worst fear after the amount of money just spent having dash restored! You know anyone who can do this without scraping and damaging anything? I did this once before early when I got the car and didn’t do a very good job.
 
Oh man my worst fear after the amount of money just spent having dash restored! You know anyone who can do this without scraping and damaging anything? I did this once before early when I got the car and didn’t do a very good job.
I don’t know anyone that does that type work. Can you use some 3m green painters tape and mask up the dash pad all around where the cluster goes in to prevent scratches in the vinyl?
 
I don’t know anyone that does that type work. Can you use some 3m green painters tape and mask up the dash pad all around where the cluster goes in to prevent scratches in the vinyl?
Will just have to try. May be a project for the winter. Going to enjoy driving while weather is good. Will get new backup harness and work on speedo gear. Leave dash for the winter will try to keep you updated but Thank you so much for the help!!
 
Will just have to try. May be a project for the winter. Going to enjoy driving while weather is good. Will get new backup harness and work on speedo gear. Leave dash for the winter will try to keep you updated but Thank you so much for the help!!
there’s a few threads on here on removing the cluster here’s a link to one of them read post #9
 
Can you reach and pull the limiter in place. I can get mine out of the Bee and my '66 Satellite with a bit of contortion.. lol
 
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