Has anyone put 80s mopar disc brakes on a 72?

[max 7]

I've been told 76-82 Cordobas, New Yorkers, Diplomats etc. disc brakes should work. But I was just in my local junk yard and found an 87 New Yorker with a 318 and everything looked the exactly the same underneath as my 72 Charger. The problem is, the junk yards compatibility thing on the computer said it would fir a 73-74 Charger but not a 72. Anybody know if this should work or not? I mean 71-74 is the same car with the exception of the back windows.

 

[YY1]

3/8 difference in spindle height.

Very polarizing issue.

I have 87 5th Ave brakes on my 66 but haven't driven it yet.

The site "bigblockdart" has a good article that debunks the "don't do it" camp.

 

[max 7]

Thanks. I considered it and I don't want junk yard brakes on a huge car with this much horsepower. I MIGHT be getting a disc brake kit for $935 that's not just the front, but the back as well. A lot of the kits that are just for the front go for that. They aren't a brand name like Wilwood but it comes with literally everything but the booster which I have ordered right now. All 4 calipers are single piston. My mom has a dog grooming business with a converted chevy motor home with a 350 and it only has front discs that are single piston so I think 4 single piston is good enough for my 340 charger.

 

[moparman73]

YY1,
Did you use the brake hoses off the Fifth Avenue for your 66 coronet? If so any interference issues to be aware of?

 

[YY1]

I figure if those brakes can stop the 4000+ lb 5th ave, they can stop my 3500 lb 66.

...and they HAVE to be a dramatic improvement over any stock drum setup.

The 71/72 setup uses a very similar rotor and caliper, but just the slightly shorter spindle. Pads (including ceramic) are MUCH cheaper for the 5th Ave caliper, compared to the 71/72 style.

No, the hoses didn't work. I have late B (73-79) hoses on it.
Not a perfect fit but they are workable.

I paid $450 for the entire running, driving 5th Ave, and it is still yielding useable parts, including the fender tag screws!

Should have been more clear- in 73 the B body K frame changed. Added the rubber isolators, and that's why the added 3/8" was put in the spindles. This caried over into the F/M/J. A/E body never got iso mounts, so their spindles stayed the same as early B. That New Yorker is a C right? It probably has 11" brakes that work only with 15" wheels. Not sure about those spindles.

 

[max 7]

What I had planned on doing was mounting everything from the spindle to the brakes from the new yorker on. But i was persuaded to new brakes because what if the brakes were faulty and I crashed because I couldn't stop? Its just precautionary. And I don't really need a whole car for parts anymore because I'm nearing completion. The only thing that I would really need that the new yorker definitely couldn't give me is a back seat. Vinyl started seperating last year but I'll just reupholster the whole car in a few years.

 

[fatecaptured]

Anyone have problems with the later spindles? I've read that they can cause geometry problems with the alignment. But u can get new upper control arms that are slightly angled to fix the problem. Just curious about the subject. Wanting to do a similar swap with my front drums.

 

[YY1]

Read the writeup on bigblockdart.com.

Geometry change is negligeable.

My parts car was running/driving/stopping, so I know all the brake parts are good.

...could always use spindles from JY and use calipers/rotors as cores for new/reman parts store purchases.

Brakes scare lots of people, but if you understand what they do/how they work, they are MUCH less intimidating. Brakes and suspension was my specialty "back in the day", partially because no one else wanted to do them.

Went to regional Plymouth Troubleshooting finals in 85 (third place) (and fastest parts identifier on record at that time).
Was ASE certified until 89.
Didn't like where the technology was going and got tired of being dirty all the time, so made a carrer change to electrical work then general building maint, and finally IT.
Work got smaller and/or cleaner every time


...and you have just as much of a chance of brand new parts failing/being defective as JY parts.
Put the car on stands for testing (then "yard drive"), and make sure the calipers aren't stuck/sticking or leaking, and the rotors are thick and not grooved too bad.

The local U-pull gets $75 for everything except m/c (which I WOULD get new {althouggh I have rebuilt them}), and I'll keep the $850 difference to use elsewhere, 'cause my pockets aint that deep.

I know Ehrenburg is against it, and he is SAE, but I can't ignore all those who have done it and haven't had any problems. Ehrenburg also wants you to locate and use parts from three different systems, some of which are extremely difficult to find. ****? Again, the complete system on the 5th Ave worked as is, and on a heavier car.

 

[fatecaptured]

Read the writeup on bigblockdart.com.

Geometry change is negligeable.

My parts car was running/driving/stopping, so I know all the brake parts are good.

...could always use spindles from JY and use calipers/rotors as cores for new/reman parts store purchases.

Brakes scare lots of people, but if you understand what they do/how they work, they are MUCH less intimidating. Brakes and suspension was my specialty "back in the day", partially because no one else wanted to do them.

Went to regional Plymouth Troubleshooting finals in 85 (third place) (and fastest parts identifier on record at that time).
Was ASE certified until 89.
Didn't like where the technology was going and got tired of being dirty all the time, so made a carrer change to electrical work then general building maint, and finally IT.
Work got smaller and/or cleaner every time


...and you have just as much of a chance of brand new parts failing/being defective as JY parts.
Put the car on stands for testing (then "yard drive"), and make sure the calipers aren't stuck/sticking or leaking, and the rotors are thick and not grooved too bad.

The local U-pull gets $75 for everything except m/c (which I WOULD get new {althouggh I have rebuilt them}), and I'll keep the $850 difference to use elsewhere, 'cause my pockets aint that deep.

I know Ehrenburg is against it, and he is SAE, but I can't ignore all those who have done it and haven't had any problems. Ehrenburg also wants you to locate and use parts from three different systems, some of which are extremely difficult to find. ****? Again, the complete system on the 5th Ave worked as is, and on a heavier car.

Yeah I have read the tech archives"DISCO TECH" and I've also purchased the new book about B body performace with the yellow 70 superbee on the cover. Both were similar except the whole spindle trivia. Just wondering how others have done their uprgrades and if there were in fact any suspention issues. I will go hunting for a late model then. I figure most of the 70's stuff has been picked or too far rotted to mess with.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

I've been told 76-82 Cordobas, New Yorkers, Diplomats etc. disc brakes should work. But I was just in my local junk yard and found an 87 New Yorker with a 318 and everything looked the exactly the same underneath as my 72 Charger. The problem is, the junk yards compatibility thing on the computer said it would fir a 73-74 Charger but not a 72. Anybody know if this should work or not? I mean 71-74 is the same car with the exception of the back windows.

The 3rd gen chargers can further be divided into 71-72 & 73-74 in the respect to extream differences in suspension. 73-74 introduces the ISO (isolated) rear axle from leaf springs, K member from unibody and torsion bar cross member... all by rubber bushings.

To get a little more specific to the question you ask about the front suspension;

73 and up K-frames are isolated from the unibody and the K frame also supports the upper control arms (not attached to the unibody)

As mentioned, the upper control arm assemblies for 73 and up B, F, M, J and R are (to the best of my knowledge) are interchangeable as an assembly (bushing sizes did change in 82). These upper controll arm components definately CANNOT be used for 72 and previous however...

The spindles on all the 73 and up B, F, M, J and R are also identicle and do differ in hight by about 3/8" and there are slight changes in geometry as well compaired to the A & E spindles. This is the root of the debate as to whether these should or shouldnt be used. From my research and reading the debates I lean towards using these is not a problem.

To do this swap you will need to change out the MC and prop valve for the disk brake set-up and get the proper flex lines. And of course the disks, pads, rotors, etc

Hope this helps

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Additional;

As I just seen the question about the C body spindles... no the C body spindle cannot be used as they are quite different with the possible exception of 1973

also... you may read that the additional 3/8" may bind the upper ball joint, but I cant see that being an issue except perhaps at the bump stops but I seriously doubt even then.

 

[YY1]

...and speaking of prop valves...I have found that the "Texas" shped valve is the same between my 73 and 74 cars, and the 87 FA, as well as most truck applications until the early 90's.

BTW, the FA power booster also works on the 72-74 Charger firewall, and allows you to use the later 2 bolt m/c ($29 local) instead of the 4 bolt ($50 plus shipping).

You have a 72 with drums in front?
That is WAY late for drums on a B.
IIRC they went disk across the board in 73 (B anyway).


Haven't seen you post in a while Kernel. Nice to have you back!

 

[max 7]

...and speaking of prop valves...I have found that the "Texas" shped valve is the same between my 73 and 74 cars, and the 87 FA, as well as most truck applications until the early 90's.

BTW, the FA power booster also works on the 72-74 Charger firewall, and allows you to use the later 2 bolt m/c ($29 local) instead of the 4 bolt ($50 plus shipping).

You have a 72 with drums in front?
That is WAY late for drums on a B.
IIRC they went disk across the board in 73 (B anyway).


Haven't seen you post in a while Kernel. Nice to have you back!

Yeah my 72 started its life as a basic V8 car with a 318, 904 trans, and an 8 1/4 rear. Now it has a 340, 727, and an 8 3/4 with posi. It needs more stopping power now.

 

[Moparmatt72]

My dad got a cordoba and bolted the front discs onto his 68 charger spindles and everything, just took off his drums with spindles and put these on.

 

[71ChallengerSE]

Done it to many mopars, Dusters, Darts, Chargers, A Daytona! Never had any problems, just make sure you get a proportioing valve for a disc/drum setup if that is what you have. Dont use the drum/drum one.