• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Have new fuel line...where does it go?

sputnik 440

Capt Jim
Local time
11:01 AM
Joined
Feb 16, 2016
Messages
248
Reaction score
69
Location
Norfork, AR
Here is my problem.......got the new SS lines. Took them out of the box and straightened the tank to pump one out. Got the 67 Plymouth Satellite jacked up and looked at the line the restorers put in. Appears they spliced a 3/8 line from where the bends go from the sill to the tank. They did this conveniently at the sill just in front of the rear wheel well. The line runs up the sill to just before the rear of the front wheel well. There, is where they put the filter. I am fine up to this point. I can replace all the old line back from here. But....They then spiced in the 3/8" rubber fuel "hose" that goes around the inside of the wheel well and then through the wall next to the mechanical fuel pump. They did not follow the original path of the original line.

I see no clear path for the new line to run from the sill to the pump. Can anyone provide a photo or diagram for the track it should follow? I have fought this snake for a couple of hours and it is still laying on the floor and not close to going in. It might be easier if I did not have the headers in the way, but there is absolutely no way I can remove them without removing the engine. If I get close to one of them I think it will boil the fuel, which is what this thread was about in the beginning. Any suggestions? I am trying to decide if the line goes over, around or through the upper control arm or follows the frame. I would think it would go through holes in the frame, but the bends don't begin to match up. I have looked for clip holes and don't see any of them either. Help will be greatly appreciated....Sputnik
 
I don't know if it's the same, but on my 68, as the fuel line gets close to the trans crossmember, it makes a bend towards the center of the car, then bends towards the front and goes through a hole in the crossmember, then runs straight along the frame rail on the passenger side... if you have to, straighten it out and re-bend it where you need it... I don't know why but they never seem to fit exactly anyway
 
thanks for the reply Beanhead. I looked at the path you mention and I can see how that applies to a '67. I have one problem now. If I go the route along the frame rail then it would have to be on the outside of the rail. If I go inside, which I can, I will be within 1" of one of the 4 header pipes no matter how I try. I cannot figure out how I can go from the outside of the rail and back into the engine compartment. I can go into the wheel well and then through, or I can leave it exposed by crossing under the rail and back up to the pump. I don't like the idea of it being exposed. I appreciate your input....
 
I recently replaced the fuel and brake lines on my 67 GTX. If you are trying to stick to the stock alignment, I can try to take a couple of pictures of mine this evening.
 
I recently replaced the fuel and brake lines on my 67 GTX. If you are trying to stick to the stock alignment, I can try to take a couple of pictures of mine this evening.
That would really help! I was hoping someone could come up with a photo. I appreciate your efforts to get photos. Thanks. Can you show one of the line as it goes off the rail in the back end just before the wheel well? I want to make sure the line that is there is on the right path.
 
AR67GTX.......Can you post the photos on Dropbox? If so, or if you wish to send them to my email, send to [email protected] I hope it is ok to give out an email on 4bbo. Where you at in AR? I'm in North Central.
 
No problem... On the frame rail, my fuel line runs fairly close to my headers as well, but only for a short distance... Nevertheless I did wrap the fuel line with that self-adhesive Thermo Tech stuff it seems to help
 
Sorry - no Drop Box. Can't even get into Photobucket right now for some reason so I'm going to try to attach from my computer docs and spread them to 2 posts. I can probably PM them to you. The first one is looking forward at the transmission cross member.

IMG_4417.JPG
This one is looking towards the rear from the transmission cross member.
IMG_4418.JPG
These two are towards the front.
IMG_4419.JPG

IMG_4420.JPG
 
Last edited:
More

Coming through the transmission cross member
IMG_4422.JPG
Forward termination to rubber line to fuel pump.
IMG_4423.JPG

IMG_4421.JPG

If you don't have the fuel line clips on your car you should be able to order them. The holes to clip them in should be there.

I gathered that you pretty much had the rear to the tank figured out. If you need something back there I can get it in the morning.
 
Last edited:
Photos really help. Terrific pictures. Question, why not take the metal line all the way to the pump? Is vibration a problem with going to the mechanical pump with the direct metal line? The line I bought is to be used with a small transition piece of rubber line to join the pump with the line. I've got to get over to the garage and see if I can figure out the in and out of the rails and cross members. Another question. I am having problems trying to do a good quality double flare on the 3/8" ss. Should have gone with mild steel I guess. Will a single flare cause me alarm? I know the double is what is usually called for, but will a single work? and.....Beanhead, thanks for the header answer. That sure is a lot of heat coming from those 2" hookers on the 440.
 
Answer to you question: movement. There's always movement in the drive train and body. Take a metal rod or tube and bend it slightly.Then do it a thousand times. What do you get ? Metal fatigue and a crack, not good in a fuel line. Also, if a mount goes, may become an instant fire.
 
Answer to you question: movement. There's always movement in the drive train and body. Take a metal rod or tube and bend it slightly.Then do it a thousand times. What do you get ? Metal fatigue and a crack, not good in a fuel line. Also, if a mount goes, may become an instant fire.
AKA "work hardening"...to elastic failure. Very bad news in any situation.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top