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Header Gasket Replace, Bolts vs Studs

young99

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I am getting ready to replace the header gaskets and ran into something I am not too familiar with. This engine has studs and when I started removing them I noticed tons of coolant coming out. After looking online I am seeing that the header studs go into the water jackets. I am guessing this would be normal?

The next thing is that the gasket kit i bought from Jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/7657G/10002/-1
comes with a new set of bolts. I was thinking about using them but what do you guys think about using bolts vs studs?
 
Studs in the holes that go into the jacket - much less chance of a coolant leak later. Bolts could work on the others.
 
I stud every hole possible and bolt those with header clearance issues.
 
i stud all holes. hot anti-freeze is corrosive and needs to stay inside the heads, not outside. bolts are a messy loser.
 
Thank you guys for the input. I will be sticking with the studs, about to order me a new set.

I have also decided to go with a new set of headers. After fighting all day, removing tons of parts, magically squeezing out a starter, and cursing 85% of the time we finally got the driver header out of the car. This was the biggest pita I have ever dealt with and has alot to do with the design/shape of the headers in the car. I actually have no clue how they managed to get the thing bolted up and in the car.

I am thinking about going with Doug Headers D451-R, I have read that some people have had good/decent luck with fitting the Doug headers. However, some of the posts did not go in detail of which model number they were using.

Has anyone had any luck or know much about the Doug D451 headers?

Oh yeah I also will be going back with a Mini Starter if anyone has any suggestions
 
Thanks young99 for bringing this up. Haven't used studs since my first car many decades ago & hadn't really thought about it. I put the motor in my "new" '66 for the first time last month & a few of the bolts were a PITA. I'll try to figure out which could be studded to make it easier.
 
For headers, it depends on what engine you have. If you have a RB block (e.g. 440), then there are lots of choices. If you have a B block (e.g. 383, 400), then TTI is the only way to go. B and RB are different blocks and TTI righty designs them different, so the headers FIT RIGHT. Even for a 440, TTI seems to be one of the best out there. Expensive, but good. (I have a 383 with TTI headers).

Good Luck
 
For headers, it depends on what engine you have. If you have a RB block (e.g. 440), then there are lots of choices. If you have a B block (e.g. 383, 400), then TTI is the only way to go. B and RB are different blocks and TTI righty designs them different, so the headers FIT RIGHT. Even for a 440, TTI seems to be one of the best out there. Expensive, but good. (I have a 383 with TTI headers).

Good Luck

I completely forgot to even mention the type of engine and car I am working with. I am putting this on a 1969 Dodge Coronet with a 1969 383 HP engine and 727 Transmission. I never knew there was a different B and RB blocks, I will have to look into this and find out what I have.
 
Got a new set of studs ordered and on the way as well as some new headers.

This is the driver side that was taken off. Giant spaghetti monster, cant tell what kind it is.
CAM00601.jpg
 
The only problem with studs is that on some headers they hit the header and wont fit. On some you just cant get a nut on them but with factory heads I would use studs in the holes that they will fit the headers you use. Some headers may fit studs in all the bolt holes but I know not all headers will let the studs work on all holes. Ron
 
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