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Headers vs Manifolds: Direct Comparison at the Track

66 Sat

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I run my car at the track a few months back, 318 poly stroker, now 354 cu in with a 3.58" stroke crank. 3.23 rear, stock converter, power steering, full interior cruiser.
I was still running the factory exhaust manifolds and the car ran:
14.8 @ 96 mph.

Last night I was back at the track with the exact same combo except now I have headers, 1 5/8" stepped to 1 3/4. The car ran:
14.196 @ 99.80 mph

So a 0.6 second 4 mph improvement.

I'll be back there next month for Mopar Sunday, I'm going to try to get into the 13's.

Car runs so much better on the street too, much torquier, eager to rev.
20230701_081305.jpg


20230630_200445.jpg
20230205_220110.jpg

20230630_182951.jpg
 
13’s not a problem, progress with every pass & tune, enjoy the ride
 
For the headers haters, how much cam and converter?
:rofl:yep the header haters are going to love this one...

And the the 'oh the humanity' about the plug wires...
And header leaks..
Etc..
 
Thanks for posting this hard data. Those poly exhaust manifolds look pretty restrictive.
 
Yes the 60fts are pretty tame.
Are you stalling it up at all?
My charger /383 would run about the same with 323s. But about a 2.00 -2.1 60.
I always figured it to be around 4 and a quarter horse.
 
Did u have single exhaust or duals with the manifolds?


And, when you switched from the manifolds to headers, did you use the old exhaust system with the headers, or were new pipes and mufflers installed too?
 
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Nothing was changed except the headers (but I had to change the main jets on the 600 Holley from 66 to 68 as on the drive home from the header shop I had a lean miss until the engine warned up. I wasn't even sure if the 66 jets had been previously drilled as they looked identical in diameter to the 68 but the problem went away after I swapped them). No other changes at all.

Stock converter, BFG 245/60 rear tires. Same cam as was in the engine for the last 3 years or so, when the engine was still a 318 - it's a 264 Schneider solid lifter cam, 0.450" lift

The exhaust has been a dual 2.5" system for some years now, with Thrush glasspack mufflers for that old school sound.

All the changes I make I always try to do one at a time so I can see the effect. The amount I've spent over the years I could have easily started with a 440 and been going from 13 seconds to 12 to 11 etc but I always wanted to keep the poly as it's something different and see if it could be made to run well.

Obviously it's still very mild compared to all you guys with built big blocks - my goal was just a nice cruiser that starts and idles nicely, can go to the shops or the beach, but still has some power.
 
Yes the 60fts are pretty tame.
Are you stalling it up at all?
My charger /383 would run about the same with 323s. But about a 2.00 -2.1 60.
I always figured it to be around 4 and a quarter horse.
The first 2 runs I just drove off the line. The last I probably held it at 1,000 rpm and had a touch of wheelspin. On the street it will light them up from a standstill now with just the throttle, so I could definitely have given it some more.

The 60 ft times are very lame. I put the time into one of the online calculators and it projected a qtr mile of 16.9 secs. When I put the mph in in projected a time of 13.3 secs, so there's some practice to be had.

I really don't want to change the converter or the gearing. I like the car as it is, and I don't want to compromise the cruising aspect for better times.
 
Some spare wheels with some 235/60r15 drag radials will give you a little more gear and a lot more hook.Or 255/60r15 drag radials and you lose a little gear.

Love the car and keep up the good work.
 
Here's a long tail, stay with me if you will...
not trying to hijack @66 Sat , thread

My car, I went or I was forced the other way, 68 RR lowdeck 6bbl, trick carbs
full roller, alum heads etc. :blah:
TF727 3,200 stall flashes to 3800 stall, 3.73:1 & now has 3.23:1 sure grip :blah:
the gears didn't kill it like the rest did
68 RR #24 479ci-6bbl org. ps.JPG


I had some shorty Hedman's on it, not the best headers, maybe giving up 25 gross HP
compared to/over a long-tube 1-7/8"-2" step headers with 3" collectors
but considerably better than the HP iron manifolds
going into 3" Flowmaster Delta 50 Muscle Car series mandrel exhaust, out the back

Exhaust Flowmasters American Muscle Car System header back.jpg

the Hedman shorty headers great ground clearance
for something low & driven on rough & windy *** off camber mountain roads
extremely easy install, damn near throw them in
easiest plug changes ever, especially with angle plug heads
but not the needed clearance/s for the rear steer bolt in Unisteer Rack
right at the bottom 1/3 of the header on the left side/drivers side

Exhaust Hedman Header B-RB Shorty style 1.750 inc tubes with 2-5 inc collectors hed-78070_xl.jpg

I had to put my 68 HP manifolds back
(they were mildly ported, so not 100% stock manifolds, with ceramic coating that is flaking off now)
on it, after I installed the Unisteer Rack & pinion, (I wouldn't recommend it) $1,000 spent
it's going to stay on the car, need to do something about the 'manifolds'
unfortunately the headers ran right into the head of the area
where the power-steering lines went'
Header Clearance & under car Unisteer rack shots #2.JPG


under the pan where the org. drag/cross link went, stock 402 pan

Header Clearance & under car Unisteer rack shots #6 underside rack & pan back to front.JPG



the culprit of my griefs, works great steers great, but no room
hence the god damn old HP' Manifolds again
Unisteer 68-72 B-Body Power Rack & Pinion Black.jpg


HP manifolds
It was supposed to be, only for temporary, till I could do some custom headers
.
.
.
.
.
.
TTI allegedly makes some 1-7/8" TTI-383-178ci (ceramic coated) that will fit
but $1100+
I don't really want to spend on something that only 'may work'
& not be able to return or pay an extra $100+ to return them

Exhaust TTI Headers #383-178-C1 Drivers Side.jpg


the car was a solid 11.90 car with shorty headers, as driven on the street/roads
even with the shitty shorty headers, killing a lil' power

I clocked it with a buddies cellphone/GPS style it was like 12.65 (3/4 of a second slower)

Now (several years ago now)
It is fat as f*** with the HP manifolds, even ported, it's choked out
haven't been back to the track since
not worth it
I know for a fact it's way slower now

It org. had exact same tune as when it had the shorties on it
same exact exhaust system, with some TTI headpipes for 3"
the only difference was the mildly ported, HP manifold instead, back on

I have since leaned it out a bunch, like 6 jett sizes worth,
it's all killing power every step too
still need to lean it out even more, need more jetts, need to do the carbs all over,
emulsion & idle/air bleeds etc.

MY proof the headers are better, breathe way, way better
& flow way freer & even shitty 1-3/4" tubes on the shorties
it's chocked down big time now, it was 590hp/550-ish tq at the rear wheels
you feel it in the seat of the pants, it's killed the power
if I was to stay with the manifold permanantly I'd have to change the camshaft too
PITA, not worth it

Albeit;
these Max Wedge Iron heavy manifolds will work
but they are heavy as f***, & also $1,200-$1,300
& like 70#s between the 2 of them
Defeats the purpose, adding back all the weight,
I took off with all the alum stuff
& they barely will clear the firewall, would have to modify the trans/diptick tube too
PITA too
Exhaust 413ci-426ci 62-63 Max Wedge Cast Iron Mopar Manifolds.jpg
& the head-pipes for them & crossover is like $1300+
the damn hardware, I could build some or pay to have someone build me
a custom set of Stainless headers, for that cost of $2500+ (probably $3,000) for re-pop stuff

I'm going to probably merge my Flowmaster Scavenger 4-2-1 collectors (below)
into the & modify the Hedman's (above) have them cut, then turn tighter & go back quicker
with a sorter head tube, then go down some & a 45* to mate up to my pipes
(shorten the collectors on the 3" part some)
I have all kinds of mandrel 16ga/18ga tubing J & U bends, in 1-3/4", 1-7/8" & 2"
for stepped headers I was going to build to make it work,
it's all just a PITA
But the performance gains, is well worth it...
Exhaust Flowmasters Scavenger Series Collectors C134218234.jpg


otherwise Headers are totally worth it...
one of the 1st things I always do is make the exhaust flow as well as the induction does
what goes in must come out
just a big air pump

normally headers are NOT this much of a PITA :BangHead:

the 1" phenolic spacers helped some & leaned it out some,
but still choked down badly
68 RR #30 A-12 6bbl pan & fresh air air-cleaner w-phenolic spacers.JPG



enjoy, in my pain
I hate the heavy & restrictive HP robbing, 68-70 HP Iron manifolds
 
Last edited:
I run my car at the track a few months back, 318 poly stroker, now 354 cu in with a 3.58" stroke crank. 3.23 rear, stock converter, power steering, full interior cruiser.
I was still running the factory exhaust manifolds and the car ran:
14.8 @ 96 mph.

Last night I was back at the track with the exact same combo except now I have headers, 1 5/8" stepped to 1 3/4. The car ran:
14.196 @ 99.80 mph

So a 0.6 second 4 mph improvement.

I'll be back there next month for Mopar Sunday, I'm going to try to get into the 13's.

Car runs so much better on the street too, much torquier, eager to rev.
View attachment 1487549

View attachment 1487551View attachment 1487548
View attachment 1487550
not too shabby for a Poly motor either
 
Nothing was changed except the headers (but I had to change the main jets on the 600 Holley from 66 to 68 as on the drive home from the header shop I had a lean miss until the engine warned up. I wasn't even sure if the 66 jets had been previously drilled as they looked identical in diameter to the 68 but the problem went away after I swapped them). No other changes at all.

Stock converter, BFG 245/60 rear tires. Same cam as was in the engine for the last 3 years or so, when the engine was still a 318 - it's a 264 Schneider solid lifter cam, 0.450" lift

The exhaust has been a dual 2.5" system for some years now, with Thrush glasspack mufflers for that old school sound.

All the changes I make I always try to do one at a time so I can see the effect. The amount I've spent over the years I could have easily started with a 440 and been going from 13 seconds to 12 to 11 etc but I always wanted to keep the poly as it's something different and see if it could be made to run well.

Obviously it's still very mild compared to all you guys with built big blocks - my goal was just a nice cruiser that starts and idles nicely, can go to the shops or the beach, but still has some power.
Sounds like you made some very smart choices and have a great combo
 
:rofl:yep the header haters are going to love this one...

And the the 'oh the humanity' about the plug wires...
And header leaks..
Etc..
Don't forget about all the fun replacing a starter with headers.
 
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