Help! Floor panel replacement

[theGreenOrange]

Well, I have decided to do this correctly and have ordered a new floor pan patch panel for my 72 Satellite. I am new to body work and I hope someone can help with a couple quick questions.

1. What is this this little bracket with what looks like 3 rivets, and how the heck do I get it out?

2. What is the best type of wheel to use with an angle grinder to cut out the tack welds without messing up the adjacent panels?

3. What is the best tool to remove the plug welds?

Thanks!

 

[gdrill]

1: Not sure, is it bolted from underneath?
2: A zip disc cuts welds nicely, on an air die grinder fits into small places the best
3: You can get a spot weld cutter, they work awesome, or you can use a drill bit and just be careful not to drill through the second panel.

 

[theGreenOrange]

1: Not sure, is it bolted from underneath?
2: A zip disc cuts welds nicely, on an air die grinder fits into small places the best
3: You can get a spot weld cutter, they work awesome, or you can use a drill bit and just be careful not to drill through the second panel.

Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I don't have an air compressor, just an electric angle grinder, drill, dremel, etc. Any advice on a type of bit/disc for one of those?

They look more like pins than bolts, and the driveline is still in there so I don't know how much I can see underneath. I will crawl under there and see if it is visible.

I will go ahead and pick up a special bit for the plug welds because I am nervous about messing up the panels underneath, thanks!

 

[gdrill]

Just get some zip discs for your angle grinder, I think they are about 1/16", the thinner the better. They cut quick so be careful not to go through both panels. No biggie if you do, you can fill the slice when you reinstall the panel.
I got thinking, I wonder if there is some form of vibration dampener hanging under that plate?

 

[theGreenOrange]

Just get some zip discs for your angle grinder, I think they are about 1/16", the thinner the better. They cut quick so be careful not to go through both panels. No biggie if you do, you can fill the slice when you reinstall the panel.
I got thinking, I wonder if there is some form of vibration dampener hanging under that plate?

Great, thanks for the zip disc advice. I will Jack her up and see what I can see...

 

[threewood]

Blair 11096 spotweld cutter is regarded as one of the better ones. I have also had good luck with the cheaper double sided ones. Pre drill a divot so it doesnt slip. Probably need a chisel or small prybar to pop the panels apart as well.

That plate is interesting, doesnt look stock. Is it right over the driveshaft tunnel? Just look underneath and see what it goes to.

 

[theGreenOrange]

Blair 11096 spotweld cutter is regarded as one of the better ones. I have also had good luck with the cheaper double sided ones. Pre drill a divot so it doesnt slip. Probably need a chisel or small prybar to pop the panels apart as well.

That plate is interesting, doesnt look stock. Is it right over the driveshaft tunnel? Just look underneath and see what it goes to.

Thanks, I will definitely check out that Blair. Yes, the plate is on the middle of the tunnel, where the rear floor pans meet the pan under the rear seat. I will try to get a look at the underside tonight.

 

[Glenwood]

I know you don't have an air compressor but cutting out the floor in between the frame and rockers with a zipcut and using an air chisel makes short work of it. I'm not a fan of the spotweld cutters, but I could only find made in china garbage that didn't work very well or very long. Drilling deeper divots like threewood mentioned helps though.

 

[threewood]

I know you don't have an air compressor but cutting out the floor in between the frame and rockers with a zipcut and using an air chisel makes short work of it. I'm not a fan of the spotweld cutters, but I could only find made in china garbage that didn't work very well or very long. Drilling deeper divots like threewood mentioned helps though.

Even with the Blair, which has a drill point, I needed to predrill or it would spin out . And I found that the Blair cutter is fragile enough that if it catches it can chip off a cutter and be worthless afterward. It cuts great though, just take it slow. If you overspeed it, it will dull . They can be re sharpened, but if a tooth is chipped off, toss it.

The Chinese made cutters I found to work well for the price, but absolutely need a predrilled center. Mine lasted quite a long time, but the no name replacement cutters I bought off amazon dulled quickly.

 

[theGreenOrange]

I know you don't have an air compressor but cutting out the floor in between the frame and rockers with a zipcut and using an air chisel makes short work of it. I'm not a fan of the spotweld cutters, but I could only find made in china garbage that didn't work very well or very long. Drilling deeper divots like threewood mentioned helps though.

Thanks for the reply. If I were to get an air compressor, what is the smallest one I could get away with? I saw a few on Craigslist but don't know how big of one a job like this would need.

 

[Glenwood]

Mine is 26 gal and is fine for an air chisel and impact gun etc., but it runs constantly when using the die grinders and the sand blaster. I'm not sure of it's cfm but it barely keeps up when using my blaster cabinet. I suggest you research it and plan for possible future uses. Larger is better imo. Min 60gal, 220V if you have enough power for it. Mine is iron, oil filled and has served well for over 10 years. Be careful of older units as some guys never drain the condensation and the tank can rust out and blow a hole when filling.

 

[flypaper]

you can do it on the cheap without any compressor
just get a electric cut off tool and some cheap china spot weld cutters and go to town.
unless you are going thru thick stuff, the china cutters will work fine
of course the cut off tool will be slower then the air one
but it will be good enough to do the job
just make sure you lube up the cutters good when you use them and they will last
i drilled a whole car apart with just 2 of them myself and
i only broke one while going thru some thick stuff.

 

[polywideblock]

is the a large piece of steel/cast iron bolted to that bracket under the floor ?

 

[flypaper]

is the a large piece of steel/cast iron bolted to that bracket under the floor ?

there should be,unless someone took it off
its the mount for the vibration damper that is found only on small block cars

 

[theGreenOrange]

is the a large piece of steel/cast iron bolted to that bracket under the floor ?

Looks like I wont be able to get under there until tomorrow. Have you seen one of these before?

edit: nevermind, i just saw your vibration damper post, thanks!

 

[theGreenOrange]

there should be,unless someone took it off
its the mount for the vibration damper that is found only on small block cars

OK, thanks. This was originally a 318 car, but has a 383 now.

 

[flypaper]

here is what you should find or find missing..
a hunk of metal

 

[theGreenOrange]

Oh my lord, that looks like it will be tough to remove with the driveshaft in the way. Thanks for letting me know what I am up against.

 

[flypaper]

i don't know for sure,
but i would venture to guess that you will have to drop the shaft to be able to get to it.
its not light either.

 

[theGreenOrange]

i don't know for sure,
but i would venture to guess that you will have to drop the shaft to be able to get to it.
its not light either.

Sinice the existing pan is in good shape in that area, I might trim the new pan and butt weld it around that monstrosity. I know a guy that can TIG it for me.