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Help Me Complete My 383 Engine Build

TorRed

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I've been gathering parts with the intention of stroking my 383, first for 489ci then stepped back to a 432ci stroker, but now I'm rethinking stroking it at all. It's mainly going to be built for local car shows with the occasional blast down the road, I might take it to the drag strip once or twice to figure out how fast it really is but that's probably it. I've been looking at just pistons and narrowed it down to either ICON or Diamond at 9.6 to 10.4 compression with my 80cc heads. So here's a list of what parts I already have which is most of them and just curious how the folks here would finish the build:

Carbs: Holley sixpack on Mopar 383 intake. Backup plan if the sixpack doesn't play nice would to be either a Holley Street Dominator or a Ede DP4B with the Holley Stealth Fuel Injection.

Heads: 440Source CNC'd Stealth Heads

Pistons: Looking at Icon and Diamond sets. Most are too low compression with my 80cc heads, could go custom if I had to. Could use recommendations here.

Connecting Rods: Can I get away with stock rods with ARP bolts? Otherwise, need recommendations here.

COMP Cams 1621-16 - COMP Cams Pro Magnum Shaft Mount Roller Rocker Arms

Cam: Lunati Roller Cam - Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller. High performance street cam. Likes upgraded intake, carb and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression for maximum performance. ;Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 282/290 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 231/239 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .535/.550 ;LSA/ICL: 110/106 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd ;RPM Range: 2200-6200

ARP 545-9801 - ARP Engine Bolt Kits

Dougs 1 3/4 Inch Headers

Dynomax 2.5" Ultraflow Mufflers

727 Auto with Turbo Action Cheetah Valve Body, FTI 3000 RPM converter, Gear Vendors .78 Overdrive. Could use good 727 rebuild kits recommendations.

8 3/4 with Tru Trac Posi, Dr Diff center section, 4.10 gears, HD everything else including axles.

So this car still has its original drivetrain in it, which has me thinking I don't want to go too far with the motor and risk creating new openings in the block! And I'm not married to anything above that just does not go with the rest of the build because again, most of these parts were purchased when the plan was a larger stroker higher HP build.

Thanks in advance,
Jim
 
This should be interesting. Nothing wrong with strokers except the cash. I've had much success with a 383 though. Best of 10.50 @130 stock block/crank/rods
 
It all depends on what you want and how much you are willing to spend.

Finding a 400 (or 383) block to build over time while you can still drive yours is worth a thought. A nice 451 (or 432) would play well with what you have.
 
What are the pistons for? I am assuming a 432? Icon is a budget piston in comparison to the diamond pistons.
I have never regretted building a stroker motor if its in the budget. The cam needs to be chosen for the combination.

In the Mopar world we worry to much about stroker cranks builds..considering a 454 chevy has a shorter deck then a 383 and the same bore. Bigger engines turn less rpms, smaller displacements like a 383 will wind up more. Nothing wrong with either..build want you want and don't look back.
 
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Higher comp, higher octane needed. Whatever direction use best quality parts you can. You do not want to pull and redo engine because got lower quality and it broke. Means upgrade rods. They aren’t that expensive comparatively. Don’t over look bearings and small parts as well. Sounds like a fun build, send pics please!!
 
What are the pistons for? I am assuming a 432? Icon is a budget piston in comparison to the diamond pistons.
I have never regretted building a stroker motor if its in the budget. The cam needs to be chosen for the combination.

In the Mopar world we worry to much about stroker cranks builds..considering a 454 chevy has a shorter deck then a 383 and the same bore. Bigger engines turn less rpms, smaller displacements like a 383 will wind up more. Nothing wrong with either..build want you want and don't look back.
No, the pistons would be for a non-stroker 383 since I have to believe the cylinders need to be cleaned up after sitting for so long. That's good info on the Icon vs Diamond pistons, thx. So if this were your motor and you had the parts I have today would you go with a 432 or 489 stroker? I mainly don't want to hurt the block by going too high HP/TQ wise and from what I've read 600 HP isn't out of the question with the larger stroker. Thoughts?
 
Higher comp, higher octane needed. Whatever direction use best quality parts you can. You do not want to pull and redo engine because got lower quality and it broke. Means upgrade rods. They aren’t that expensive comparatively. Don’t over look bearings and small parts as well. Sounds like a fun build, send pics please!!
That makes total sense, so if I'm already swapping pistons and rods, not sure swapping out the original crank for a stroker is all that big a deal at that point. I'll keep whatever comes out of the motor if somewhere down the road someone wants to rebuild to more original specs. Thx
 
It all depends on what you want and how much you are willing to spend.

Finding a 400 (or 383) block to build over time while you can still drive yours is worth a thought. A nice 451 (or 432) would play well with what you have.
I thought about doing just that but have to think the original motor is unlikely to still be around when somebody wants to swap it back in, best to stay in the car if possible.
 
No, the pistons would be for a non-stroker 383 since I have to believe the cylinders need to be cleaned up after sitting for so long. That's good info on the Icon vs Diamond pistons, thx. So if this were your motor and you had the parts I have today would you go with a 432 or 489 stroker? I mainly don't want to hurt the block by going too high HP/TQ wise and from what I've read 600 HP isn't out of the question with the larger stroker. Thoughts?
More displacement with the same cam moves the power lower. That cam listed is going go be rough idling in a 383 but 231/239 would be a torque cam in a 489, it would barely lope. It is easier to have a well mannered car w the bigger engines. 432 is probably a little easier as far as assembly... I doubt there is any clearancing to do. If you are worried about the original block the 432 will run good and give you piece of mind, probably a good fit. 489 I would not have a issue with either, this isn't a race engine. 489 will likely need some minor clearancing at the bottom of the cylinders and they can have some piston noise when they are cold. That depends some on the combination of parts and how it's machined. I would rather run the cam you have in a 432 then a 383 or 489 if that matters.
 
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More displacement with the same cam moves the power lower. That cam listed is going go be rough idling in a 383 but 231/239 would be a torque cam in a 489, it would barely lope. It is easier to have a well mannered car w the bigger engines. 432 is probably a little easier as far as assembly... I doubt there is any clearancing to do. If you are worried about the original block the 432 will run good and give you piece of mind, probably a good fit. 489 I would not have a issue with either, this isn't a race engine. 489 will likely need some minor clearancing at the bottom of the cylinders and they can have some piston noise when they are cold. That depends some on the combination of parts and how it's machined. I would rather run the cam you have in a 432 then a 383 or 489 if that matters.
That is good advice, I'd like a decent lope and I bought the cam when I was leaning towards a 432. If I went with the 489 would I need a more radical cam to get the lope I want? How far above this cam would it take?

Thanks, Jim
 
That is good advice, I'd like a decent lope and I bought the cam when I was leaning towards a 432. If I went with the 489 would I need a more radical cam to get the lope I want? How far above this cam would it take?

Thanks, Jim
It's a bit of a ball park figure. For a stroker Hughes used to say two sizes larger. My guess add 8-10 degrees going from from 432 to 489.
We once had the same cam in a 383, 440, 510. The engine idle had a choppy lope in the 383, quite a bit smoother in the 440 but still loped pretty good, 510 only loped when you idled it slow. The power band also changed, the 510 liked 5500, 440 liked 5800, 383 we were 6200. Give or take some rpms...cause it has been a long long time ago. Another interesting thing was the 510 got way better gas mileage then the smaller engines, power and torque??Lol
No contest..510
 
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It's a bit of a ball park figure. For a stroker Hughes used to say two sizes larger. My guess add 8-10 degrees going from from 432 to 489.
We once had the same cam in a 383, 440, 510. The engine idle had a choppy lope in the 383, quite a bit smoother in the 440 but still loped pretty good, 510 only loped when you idled it slow. The power band also changed, the 510 liked 5500, 440 liked 5800, 383 we were 6200. Give or take some rpms...cause it has been a long long time ago. Another interesting thing was the 510 got way better gas mileage then the smaller engines, power and torque??Lol
No contest..510

Thanks for sharing your extensive experience. I'll probably go with the 432 given it fits what I already have, but you make the 489 sound pretty darn good too and if I'd only have to buy a new cam to get there still might be the way to go.

OK, I'll ask you one more question then leave you alone, promise. Given my 1.75" headers, 2.5" exhaust and 4.10 rear with O/D, do those fit the 432 better than the 489 as well?

Thanks again,
Jim
 
Cracks me up that guys choose a cam because of how it will sound.
 
Cracks me up that guys choose a cam because of how it will sound.
Comes down to different strokes for different folks, at least that's how I see it. I'm not choosing a cam for how it sounds exactly, but would like the lope to be similar to what the car had back in high school since replicating that vibe and look is exactly what I'm going for, and yes that includes the sounds it makes.
 
Comes down to different strokes for different folks, at least that's how I see it. I'm not choosing a cam for how it sounds exactly, but would like the lope to be similar to what the car had back in high school since replicating that vibe and look is exactly what I'm going for, and yes that includes the sounds it makes.
Ok that checks out. Nostalgia is really cool.

It’s just that a cam determines so many characteristics, and influences so many other choices.
 
Thanks for sharing your extensive experience. I'll probably go with the 432 given it fits what I already have, but you make the 489 sound pretty darn good too and if I'd only have to buy a new cam to get there still might be the way to go.

OK, I'll ask you one more question then leave you alone, promise. Given my 1.75" headers, 2.5" exhaust and 4.10 rear with O/D, do those fit the 432 better than the 489 as well?

Thanks again,
Jim
No worries, its good to have questions.

At the track uncorked a bigger header would probably likely be better even on the 432. But..by the time you run it through the mufflers I don't know that your going to feel much difference.
We ran 1 3/4 headers the first 20 years on the 510 w 3" exhaust. It has 1 7/8 hookers now. I do like the bigger headers, but I think the exhaust system behind probably has more to lose or gain then the headers up front.
The bigger engines really do shine on the street, it's hard to beat torque.

I have always liked racy idling cars. :)
 
No worries, its good to have questions.

At the track uncorked a bigger header would probably likely be better even on the 432. But..by the time you run it through the mufflers I don't know that your going to feel much difference.
We ran 1 3/4 headers the first 20 years on the 510 w 3" exhaust. It has 1 7/8 hookers now. I do like the bigger headers, but I think the exhaust system behind probably has more to lose or gain then the headers up front.
The bigger engines really do shine on the street, it's hard to beat torque.

I have always liked racy idling cars. :)
I'm glad you like questions! How about the 4.10 gears. Are they too much for a bigger (almost 500ci stroker) motor even with the O/D? Should I go with a 3.91 or even 3.54 instead? And like you I want the car to sound badass like it did back in the day. Is this enough cam with the rest of my parts in a 489, it's the next level up from mine:

Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller. Serious street/race cam. Needs 10.5:1 compression and 3200 RPM stall convert- er. Works with moderate nitrous and small superchargers. Very healthy idle quality. ;Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565 ;LSA/ICL: 110/106 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd ;RPM Range: 2600-6600

Thanks again, Jim
 
I’d run a regular old hyd cam if I couldn’t afford pistons to get the combo right. Why bother?
 
I think you would be much happier with 243/251 in the 496. I think it would gain more then just the nostalgic sound your after, but also performance.

The overdrive should make 4.10s work just fine. That is also dependent on what height tire you are running. Certainly getting your car to hook is harder w 4.10 then 3.55. I assume the FTI is a 9 1/2 and set tight? That could be a concern w od and 3.55. A 496 is going to pull good with 3.55s or 4.10s.

Obviously, piston choice depends on the crank and rods chosen. I think the 243/251 w a 496 could be potentially maxing out your headers and exhaust on the top end. So going w any larger cam then that..probably doesnt make much sense....but as it sits should still be a ton of fun. If you kept with the 383 or the 434 stock rods could be used. But, they should be resized w arp bolts..that gets the price point to maybe another $200-$300 to an aftermarket h beam. A good aftermarket rod and light pistons should be easier on the block. Aftermarket rods should have 7/16 bolts instead of the 3/8...and can be purchased stroker kit.
 
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I did a 451 inch 383, used 3.900 crank with BBC journals and 6.700 bbc style h-beams. You could in theory offset grind 440 crank to same specs. Used off the shelf diamond 51950 pistons designed for 3.75 stroke. Keep in mind that more stroke = more compression. This one is about 10.5 with stealth heads. On the rockers, if you want good geometry on the valve tip, get Harland sharps SHPS70016KE or SHPS70015KE rockers for Edelbrock heads, then have custom length pushrods made for your combo. Also get PAC beehives if you need springs. Good luck with your build!

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