Help! New 572 vibration at 3000 RPM

[2quick]

Hey Guys, I’m hoping someone can talk me off the ledge right now. Finally got the 572 INDy Max installed and running but I here is a really bad vibration that start around 2,000 and gets worse to 3,000 then starts to get better but never really goes away.

Short block was built by INDY the rest I assembled.

Callie’s Compstar Crank and Rods
Diamond Pistons
ATI balancer
Comp Solid Roller LowShock 285/[email protected] .711/.721 112 LSA installed at 109
440-1. 345cnc heads TD rockers

Not sure what to do at this point I’m supposed to be leaving for dragweek in 2 weeks but I can’t drive it like this for that long.

 

[fourgearsavoy]

Is the vibration in gear while driving or even in neutral when you free rev it? The internals "should" be balanced and you have a good balancer. The only thing left is the converter or drive plate right.
Gus

 

[Lefty71]

Well, if you suspect a vibration from the short block, then it's going to be anybody's guess what's going on there. Only the guy who balanced it really knows.

 

[PRHeads]

4/7 swap cam with the plug wires on wrong?

Check the exhaust temps with an infrared thermometer.

If it’s really a mechanical vibration, I’d be more suspicious of the converter than the engine.
Unfortunately, not easy to swap it out.

 

[493 Mike]

Your set up is similar to mine but, I have yet to fire mine up. It is the tiny 540 size and was dynoed in 2016. I think I'm out of warrantee!
Mike

 

[2quick]

Is the vibration in gear while driving or even in neutral when you free rev it? The internals "should" be balanced and you have a good balancer. The only thing left is the converter or drive plate right.
Gus

In neutral and in gear not drive train!

 

[2quick]

Could a dead cylinder create a vibration? Pulled 6 of the 8 and most where fouled but that’s probably from before it was tuned and running pig rich. The straps are clean but porcelain and threads are black. I’m going to get the other 2 out and check those. I’m really hoping it’s a dead cylinder or something like that. 4-7 swap got me thinking though (I thought that was only a sbf thing)it’s a Frank Lupo Concerter but is not the one that was in there before so that’s a question too.

 

[2quick]

Something else weird the header coating is fried on cylinders 3-7-4 4 being the worst going down a ways.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Could intake be sucking air/oil from valley? Black plugs from oil and lean from sucking air.

 

[33 IMP]

Unbolt the converter, wire it out of the way, fire it up and see what you get.
Edit: put fresh plugs in it first.
I like Frans answer, too. Fried header tubes is not good.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Unbolt the converter, wire it out of the way, fire it up and see what you get.
Edit: put fresh plugs in it first.
I like Frans answer, too. Fried header tubes is not good.

Don't think so^^^! Convertor has ring gear.

 

[33 IMP]

Don't think so^^^! Convertor has ring gear.

Oops. Been working on Chevies lately. My bad!

 

[2quick]

I think the Burnt header coating is from initial start up. Had the MSD box set up for Hall effect instead of ECU so was pulling tons of timing. Took awhile to figure that out. Plugs are black soot no oil. Also from initial start up pig fat. I will replace plugs tomorrow and call Kenny at Indy to see if he has any ideas. I don’t think it’s a 4-7 swap cam. I was thinking to check rotor phasing. I set it a 35degs on the balancer lined up hall effect trigger but who knows maybe it firing the next cylinder out of turn. Could be why 4-3 tubes are burnt they are next to each other in firing order. I have a cap with a hole in it to check with light. I will do this Tomorrow. I was also thinking of sliding the converter back but yea no starter ring. Anyone think is even possible for the converter to be out of balance? I traded my old one to Frank and got a credit for this one needed billet hub and lower stall…I wish i keeper the old one at least I knew that one was good.

 

[Koenig1425]

Start with the basics. Is the firing order correct? Is the distro working correctly? Is the advance working correctly? Double check everything. Transmission to block, converter bolts, transmission mounts, drive shaft u-joints, harmonic balancer pulley bolts, have you checked the ignition box grounds (intermittent ignition box could create havoc). Check all the cheap stuff first. Swap plugs from cylinder to cylinder…see if the problem follows the plug? Check the plug wires, are they tight on both ends? Start the engine and turn off the garage lights, look for sparks. Compression test? A misfire is typically is balanced out by 3,000 rpm. Have you double checked the drive shaft balance? Is the vibration present when the engine alone is revved to 3,000 rpm…or at vehicle speed? Is there a specific speed? Specific gear? Not a specific engine speed, or specific vehicle speed, or gear? 35 degrees of initial timing? Seems like a lot. Maybe back that off 10 degrees? Double check everything and then check it again. Most of my problems are because of something I forgot to do something. Good Luck!

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Got the same issue on my hemi, but mine is 214grams light on the bob-weight it was balanced at after doing some math. Wish I would have ran the numbers before it was together and in the car… I know better than to trust people..

 

[493 Mike]

Are you letting the FAST system control the timing/advance? Mine needs the initial locked at 30* BTD. No mechanical advance.
Mike

 

[2quick]

Are you letting the FAST system control the timing/advance? Mine needs the initial locked at 30* BTD. No mechanical advance.
Mike

I use a FAST throttle body converted to 4 injector drivers Controled via Holley HP…

 

[2quick]

Got the same issue on my hemi, but mine is 214grams light on the bob-weight it was balanced at after doing some math. Wish I would have ran the numbers before it was together and in the car… I know better than to trust people..

You had a shop balance and assemble the motor?

 

[2quick]

Just to clarify..
Indy assembled the short block and sold me separately the heads, cam, balancer, lifters, head studs, belt drive, and oil feed lines.
I already had the intake, oil pump, rocker shafts and arms, valley plate, distributor and other stuff.
I did final assembly from short block up.
It uses a 36x crank trigger
Distributor is gutted and locked.
Fuel and spark is controlled by Holley HP
Fast Throttle body made to work with holley
Idle timing is 25deg
Pretty much locked out at 35 above idle.
Timing light on balancer is accurate and very stable.

I ran this motor with only a partial tune basically just idle in order to get to Carlisle. It was pig fat and wouldn’t do much more than idle but it got me from trailer to show space and back. That’s when the plugs got so bad. When I got back home I set up a tuning session with Rich from fast man efi and went through the whole thing.

Starts and idles great but as RPM increases I get a weird vibration that has nothing to do with drive train the car doesn’t even have to be moving I can feel it standing next to the fender giving throttle by hand.

The motor itself when I put my hand on it doesn’t really seem to be vibrating as badly as the car feels it. I think the motor plate is exaggerating the symptoms into the frame. It will shake my fenders and vibrate the center console.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

You had a shop balance and assemble the motor?

I assembled the motor. I bought the rotating kit as a balanced assembly. Unfortunately I failed to double check the work.