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How do you remove brake line fittings that are 50 years old?

olddog67

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I need to replace the rear hard line from my distribution block to the rear flex line. Problem is it is the original 50 year old line and the fitting just doesn't want to come out of the distribution block.

I cut the hard line off so I could get a deep socket on it and this is where I stopped lol. I really don't want to snap the fitting off in the block for obvious reasons so was wondering what your guys best methods are?

Heat it up and go at it, heat it up then spray with water then go at it or another method? I know brake fluid is flammable so there's that to consider in all of this as well when applying heat.

Thanks guys!
 
Does it have to be PB, all I have is fluid film ATM? And when you say a breaker bar, you mean show no mercy on it?
 
I was hoping this was suggestions for getting the hard line to flex line joints apart without breaking the hard line! I've got three to do and doubt they'll wanna move!

As to the OP's question, that block is held on by a hollow VENTING bolt so don't twist it off. Get a wrench on that blocks square sides and then as others are suggesting.
 
The block is brass so that makes easier. If what Don said doesn't work and fitting rounds off, vise grips next. I set them real tight but not two hands to lock them. A tap on V-G's to help it .
 
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I have found an impact can be better than a socket or wrench. I learned when working around big machinery that one trick to getting big bolts or nuts loose is to pound on them with a hammer. The action of an impact seems to give that same impact that loosens up the fastener. Of course it can also snap it off, just like a wrench. I have had very good results using my 18 V impact to loosen up brake bleeders. Of course I start out at low power to give the impact action a chance to break it loose.
 
You could remove the T block from the housing, place it in a vice with soft jaws and have at it. Like stated, the bolt through the block is hollow, you could break it or strip it out of the housing.

Good luck!
 
Can you take a picture of where your progress on the block is at this point ? Might be able to come up with a better plan for you.:thumbsup:
 
alternate CW-CCW

you can buy the brass Y block if you ruin it
 
I was referring to the distribution block at the front of the car not the Y block on the housing.
 
PB is barely OK. Don’t Bring home any WD40 products. Areokroil is great.

You need to hold the block firmly while pulling on the wrench. The bracket is too flimsy.
 
If the brake lines are fifty years old as well, it is Way past time to replace them as they rust out from they inside. They are not expensive either, especially if one fails. Remove/cut all of the lines to it and soak it in the oil of your choice.
 
agree about the bracket.

you'll never get any torque on the fitting if the valve is mounted on the bracket
 
I've had real good luck with these over the years. Line wrenches never seem to work.

vintage-fuller-self-adjusting-wrench-new-americanlisted_50721381.jpg
 
I have found an impact can be better than a socket or wrench. I learned when working around big machinery that one trick to getting big bolts or nuts loose is to pound on them with a hammer. The action of an impact seems to give that same impact that loosens up the fastener. Of course it can also snap it off, just like a wrench. I have had very good results using my 18 V impact to loosen up brake bleeders. Of course I start out at low power to give the impact action a chance to break it loose.

after watching this guy in a video blowing apart a engine and trans apart with his 18v impact
and he made it look too easy
it made me start using mine
it works very well on stubborn stuff, you would be surprised..

my advise with anything when its stuck solid
soak with penetrate garbage that rarely works
then use the heat wrench and force
 
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