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How important is a matching engine to s/n or year?

When I bought my real 1967 R/T, it was missing its original powertrain. This was likely the reason it was affordable for me to buy. I found a complete 440 and 727 in an unmolested 1968 New Yorker in my local wrecking yard. I think I paid $150.00 for it in 1988. I had the engine rebuilt to Magnum specs with better cam and heavier valve springs. I swapped the 600cfm. Holley out for the proper Carter AFB. I put the chrome 1967 valve covers and black wrinkle-painted unsilenced air cleaner with correct "Magnum 440" pie pan on the engine. In 30 years NO BODY has called me out for having the wrong motor in my car. This includes winning a couple of trophies on Carlisle Fun Field. In this time, I have enjoyed driving it about 69,000 miles. If course, I would not do so well at a professionally judged concours show, but these do not interest me.
So basically a quart of oil per oil change
Could just be moly rings not seating, i had that problem once, that engine lasted forever beating the crap out of it
I have 1971 GTX with a 1970 440 in it. I have removed the engine due to an oil consumption issue( one quart in 1500 miles) I was told it was rebuilt(5000 miles ago) by a good shop but later found out was a guy in a garage. I torn it down and found lots of incorrect procedures done. So my question is this, do I rebuilt this engine(F440) or find one that is a G440(1971 build) dated before my cars assembly date. I already have an overhaul shop to do it right. I am trying to find what ever happen to the original engine but so for I have found nothing. The past two owners are no help at all.
What were the incorrect procedures?

What pistons are in it, and are you going to replace them?
Numbers drivetrain is for value nothing more. If it aint the OE block then it will never be the number drivetrain. SO ..........

IMO dont worry about it. Use the block you have. ,,,,, and IMO a QT of oil in 1500 miles aint using oil.

The block in my car is the correct date ( 66s were not vin stamped to match )

It came out of a car that had a SBD 3 days before mine does. and it was the OE block for that car.
I could say its the OE block. But I know for a fact it is not. I didnt care, I would have bought the car regardless of the block..

Ive owned my car for a little over 2 years. In that time Ive put a little over 9000 miles on it. And thats a real hemi car, auto and 3.54 rear axle. and A LOT of gas .

I have no use for a garage queen I cant drive.
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I brought this up before, but maybe some aren’t aware. The first time I heard matching numbers mentioned was around 1979. It was an article about a guy in the Midwest that had a junkyard full of Corvettes. All the way back to 1953. But he had a lot of mid-year cars, 1963-1967. I saw a reproduction skinny “Gold Line” bias ply tire for restoration. At the time, custom Vettes were all the rage, but guys were starting to restore mid-year Vettes. The ‘65 327/375 Fuel Injected version was one of the ones being brought back to OG. I don’t know how the numbers on the block thing infected the Mopar community, because it said right in the VIN 5th digit what engine the car came with. In ‘79, the Mopar muscle cars were still being driven by high school teenagers. It was more than common to build another 383 or 440 to drop in on the weekend to replace the tired one. These were daily drivers. And quite frankly, the cars that all the folklore is about. Fast forward to 2015… and I find out that no Corvette, or any GM muscle car had the engine designation in the VIN during the muscle car era.It was a lightbulb moment. Your ‘67 L71 427 Corvette had to have matching sequence numbers to prove the 427 even came in the car, as opposed to a 327. Same thing with an LS6 454 Chevelle, a 455 Stage 1 GS, or a 400 Ram Air IV GTO. That changed in 1972 for GM, and the engine was in the VIN, but by then the muscle car era was over.
I agree in the late 70's while I was in HS I had 3 cars. 69 GTS 383 auto, 70 GTX auto and a 68 GTX 4 speed. I never looked at the VIN on the engines. In fact I dont even remember if they had fender tags on them. I just wanted to go fast and out run my friends cars. Hell, one weekend I pulled the engine out of the 70 GTX and put it in the Dart GTS. (I had sold the GTS to my friend I wanted the GTS back and he like the GTX but I wanted the engine out the GTX)

Now I care a lot more about original sheet metal than the numbers matching engine. If the engine is correct for the car I am good.
What were the incorrect procedures?

What pistons are in it, and are you going to replace them?
This is my question too. But if there's enough concern of improper things done with the build upon a cursory look over then it may be worth pulling apart and going through to make sure it will be at least reliable. A gasket kit isn't too cost prohibitive to do just that and have peace of mind.
I drove the GTX 5000 miles this year, lots of people told me that I was crazy to daily drive such a beautiful car but you only live once and life is too short.I am glad I tore it down, now I know what exactly I have. Screw the match numbers thing(thanks guys) and plan on freshening this engine up.The heads(915) are going to the machine shop and installing larger valves( already ported and polished)
Good job, I love when these cars get out and enjoyed, instead of locked up in a garage or a museum. I try take my GTX out at least once a week, sometimes more, sometimes less. Cars are meant to be driven!
Enjoy it Rehash the 440 you have and drive The car. If you are a true Mopar fan because theyre the best and not because everyone jumped on the bandwagon due to the rare ones and how mopar documented the cars, it shouldnt matter. It will never be numbers matching. Dont make the mistake I and others made waiting to get things to restore or redo a car and not drive and enjoy it in the meantime. Build the engine the way you want and put miles on it.
One easy thing to check for would be a leak at the intake runner where it bolts to the head. It'll suck oil from the crankcase. With the intake off, you should be able to see/feel oily residue in the head intake runner if it was leaking.