Hydraulic Throwout Bearing Conversion....Reviews?

[MelroseMopar]

I purchashed the American Powertrain Hydramax Hydraulic Clutch Release Systems
Throwout Bearing Conversion for my A-833-18 spline, was wondering if anyone else has done this and what there experience is. Will be installing this weekend.

 

[Sascha]

Have this but converted to another hydraulic cylinder and modified the linkage. Now it works much better.
Have McLeod RXT Twin Disc.
Very light and smooth pedal feeling.
Just like a new car.

 

[padam]

View attachment 1142103
I purchashed the American Powertrain Hydramax Hydraulic Clutch Release Systems
Throwout Bearing Conversion for my A-833-18 spline, was wondering if anyone else has done this and what there experience is. Will be installing this weekend.

That looks like something out of Austin Powers' suitcase.

 

[Gsmopar]

Run a line lock for the front breaks and a second for the clutch. Run 2 switches. One engages the line lock only, the other engages both. You can launch your car off the second switch like a trans brake!

 

[rmchrgr]

View attachment 1142103
I purchashed the American Powertrain Hydramax Hydraulic Clutch Release Systems
Throwout Bearing Conversion for my A-833-18 spline, was wondering if anyone else has done this and what there experience is. Will be installing this weekend.

I have it on my Coronet I converted from column shift auto to a console 4 speed. I have a 23 spline trans but it's the same thing. I love it, effortless shifting nice and smooth. Frankly the main reason I went with the hydraulic throw out bearing was because I didn't want to deal with rounding up all the linkage and welding the z-bar plate to the frame but either way it's a great system and works as well as or better than the factory mechanical linkage. No more over center spring on the pedal either.

There are a couple things to be aware of since this is a universal kit that has been adapted for Chrysler applications. For example, the firewall support plate and clutch rod can be a bit of a hassle. In theory you want the clutch rod installed with the right pedal ratio. The factory clutch rod knob thing on the pedal is in the right spot for that but unfortunately it's too big for the heim joint arrangement they give you. Didn't realize that little tidbit until the pedal was in the car and I was installing the rod. Doh!

So rather than taking the entire pedal assembly out again to get rid of the pedal knob, I cut down an original clutch rod then drilled and tapped the cut end for the threaded rod and adapter they give you. The OE clutch rod is angled toward the steering column which is why they give you the heim joint to account for the angle. I did have to grind out the firewall plate because it was interfering with the full travel of the rod but it wasn't a big deal and it all works great. Might not have to do that if you just use what they give you.

Don't let any of this scare you away from it, just plan it out before you start drilling holes and it will be fine.

 

[MelroseMopar]

I have it on my Coronet I converted from column shift auto to a console 4 speed. I have a 23 spline trans but it's the same thing. I love it, effortless shifting nice and smooth. Frankly the main reason I went with the hydraulic throw out bearing was because I didn't want to deal with rounding up all the linkage and welding the z-bar plate to the frame but either way it's a great system and works as well as or better than the factory mechanical linkage. No more over center spring on the pedal either.

There are a couple things to be aware of since this is a universal kit that has been adapted for Chrysler applications. For example, the firewall support plate and clutch rod can be a bit of a hassle. In theory you want the clutch rod installed with the right pedal ratio. The factory clutch rod knob thing on the pedal is in the right spot for that but unfortunately it's too big for the heim joint arrangement they give you. Didn't realize that little tidbit until the pedal was in the car and I was installing the rod. Doh!

So rather than taking the entire pedal assembly out again to get rid of the pedal knob, I cut down an original clutch rod then drilled and tapped the cut end for the threaded rod and adapter they give you. The OE clutch rod is angled toward the steering column which is why they give you the heim joint to account for the angle. I did have to grind out the firewall plate because it was interfering with the full travel of the rod but it wasn't a big deal and it all works great. Might not have to do that if you just use what they give you.

Don't let any of this scare you away from it, just plan it out before you start drilling holes and it will be fine.

Thanks for this!! I will be starting on this tomorrow. My motor is currently out of the car do you think that putting this in beforehand will interfere with motor trans installation in any way? Thank you again!!

 

[rmchrgr]

Thanks for this!! I will be starting on this tomorrow. My motor is currently out of the car do you think that putting this in beforehand will interfere with motor trans installation in any way? Thank you again!!

Ha, you're joking, right? Having the engine out will make life easier because you can see what you are doing from the engine side. Even if you install the engine and trans as one unit installation is the same aw always, just have to hook up the hydraulic line to the master cylinder after it's all in, same as you would have to do with linkage. The hydraulic lines come out the side of the bell where the fork and boot usually live, just make sure to consider where the master cylinder will be and route all the fluid lines properly away from heat, moving parts etc.

I did it with the engine in though I had the column out which was a necessity. Believe me, it would have been much easier if I could have stood in the engine bay and been able to see what I was doing. Instead I had to lie on my back upside-down under the dash and and then get my head under the pedals (trust me on this) and reach through the column hole to get at stuff. My 50 year old body was twisted in ways I never thought possible. I kept dropping stuff and would have to get up, go under the car and and get it and then re-contort myself. You still might have to do that to some degree but it will be way easier if you have access on the other side.

One last thing - don't be deceived by the bearing face being in constant contact with the clutch fingers, this is what you want. It's basically the same operation as disc brakes. If the bearing retracted completely away from the fingers the internal piston would need to travel farther to make contact which is the opposite of what you want. I called A.P. thinking it needed to come totally off the face of the fingers when released but they said nope, it's right leave it alone.

Good luck!