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I think I broke it already

Damn Ed, when it rains it pours. Here's praying for both outcomes to be positive. Glad Jamie came through for you.
Thanks, my friend. I only have one gear myself, so we keep plugging along until we can't.
Fifth time coming to visit the folks with the long biopsy needles headed for my neck.
"Now, hold real still..." :eek:

No worries. :)
 
Update 4/17/18:
Having failed to get him by phone this morning, I decided to try via text.
I informed him that I had decided to crate his transmission up as it had come and to return it; I further explained that I wanted to simply get a refund.
I figured he'd not be pleased about that, but he instead replied that this was acceptable to him.
I then asked that I get a "will call" prepaid shipping label, which he also readily agreed to.

I had already contacted the mechanic earlier in the morning and asked if he wanted to give my old transmission a whirl at fixing, which he readily agreed to and stated he would bring his own "expert" in on the process as well - but there would be no charge or estimate until they got mine apart and diagnosed.
Works for me. :)

Somewhat surprised, I told Jamie what the plan was with my old transmission and that I'd just like to go that route, rather than risk the shipment of yet another unit from him.
I mentioned my out of pocket losses of yesterday for towing and the mechanics' time; I told him the new plan was that once my old transmission had been repaired, we would tow the GTX back to the mechanic, where we'd remove the Passon unit from the car and put it back in the crate, then install my old one in the car, hopefully ending up with my car back as whole and the Passon unit ready for shipping.
He replied that he was fine with a simple return and that I'd be receiving a FULL refund of everything I had paid him; he asked that I let him know when the
unit was ready to ship, when he would email me the shipping stuff to get ready for UPS to come get it.
I was quite relieved to read that message, received while I sat in the waiting room of the endocrinology department of the major hospital in the area - as you might have surmised, the next episode of "Ed's body is failing" is currently in progress, but I digress....

I replied something like "atta boy, Jamie, there ya go" and he said that this had been the plan all along.
I replied that I understood that stuff happens and that I know he's busy as hell, but that the previous days' interaction had left me non-plussed to say the least.
I offered that he might want to get some help and he replied that he'd work on that and was sorry things didn't work out.
I am too, honestly.

Bottom line as of now:
1. My old transmission is already in the hands of the mechanic, who will contact me when they figure out what's up with it.
2. Jamie Passon stood up and is doing the right thing here.
What a difference a day makes, eh? Yes, I'm very relieved and content for the moment, especially in light of the news I got at the docs'.

It's always good to get a little bit of ones' faith in humanity restored and Jamie did so for me today. :)

I was really happy to read your latest post. Firstly, on what sounds like good news from your dr. And secondly, that Jamie did the right thing. It was really bothering me that I recommended him wholeheartedly and things were going south. I'm usually a pretty good judge of scam artist bullshitters and I didn't read that from Jamie at all and only had positive interaction with him.
Like you said, **** happens and you got a bad unit but he did the right thing giving you a FULL refund. Hopefully, your local guy can rebuild your old trans and you can enjoy cruising in her soon !!!
 
I was really happy to read your latest post. Firstly, on what sounds like good news from your dr. And secondly, that Jamie did the right thing. It was really bothering me that I recommended him wholeheartedly and things were going south. I'm usually a pretty good judge of scam artist bullshitters and I didn't read that from Jamie at all and only had positive interaction with him.
Like you said, **** happens and you got a bad unit but he did the right thing giving you a FULL refund. Hopefully, your local guy can rebuild your old trans and you can enjoy cruising in her soon !!!
Well, the health news isn't good or bad at this point, just that something isn't right. We'll see...
Yeah, I suppose I shouldn't count my refund chickens until they're hatched, but I'm trusting him at his word.
I do that with folks until they give me reason not to. :)
 
Had another nice conversation with Dan Brewer this morning; great guy, very helpful as always.
He wanted to know if we'd ever figured out what the noise was my old transmission was making (he saw my video on it)
and he'd remembered it. Told him nope, no idea yet, maybe the local guy will figure it out.
He also told me he's looking at a two month backlog on transmissions now!
He does it all himself, won't let go enough to hire someone else to help with that.
I can't blame him a bit on that. Told him backlog, to a point, is a good thing and him doing them all means a constant in the quality.

I asked him about my concerns over whether the crank was actually drilled for the input shaft of the 4 speed. He asked if the bushing
recess was there and yep, it is, bushing pressed right in. I asked if the crank wasn't drilled, could we be able to still install the tranny
without cutting the input shaft? He said nope, if the tranny installs and bolts up, the crank is drilled.
That gave me some peace of mind and eliminated a possible issue.
Love that guy. :)

Come to think of it, while all this is going on, I should go ahead and replace the slip yoke, eh?
I got under the car and rough measured the distance between the "ears" on the yoke and on the driveshaft and lo and behold, it's
2 5/8". Yep, that's the "small" u-joint type (7290). Not supposed to be, but since a former owner converted the car to 4 speed,
I reckon that's what they used. I'll stick with that, since there's nothing to gain just by changing the yoke part to a 7260 type.
They make some high nickel content u-joints in 7290 anyways and I'm not going to be drag racing anytime soon.

I reckon it's off to order a yoke. :)
 
Had another nice conversation with Dan Brewer this morning; great guy, very helpful as always.
He wanted to know if we'd ever figured out what the noise was my old transmission was making (he saw my video on it)
and he'd remembered it. Told him nope, no idea yet, maybe the local guy will figure it out.
He also told me he's looking at a two month backlog on transmissions now!
He does it all himself, won't let go enough to hire someone else to help with that.
I can't blame him a bit on that. Told him backlog, to a point, is a good thing and him doing them all means a constant in the quality.

I asked him about my concerns over whether the crank was actually drilled for the input shaft of the 4 speed. He asked if the bushing
recess was there and yep, it is, bushing pressed right in. I asked if the crank wasn't drilled, could we be able to still install the tranny
without cutting the input shaft? He said nope, if the tranny installs and bolts up, the crank is drilled.
That gave me some peace of mind and eliminated a possible issue.
Love that guy. :)

Come to think of it, while all this is going on, I should go ahead and replace the slip yoke, eh?
I got under the car and rough measured the distance between the "ears" on the yoke and on the driveshaft and lo and behold, it's
2 5/8". Yep, that's the "small" u-joint type (7290). Not supposed to be, but since a former owner converted the car to 4 speed,
I reckon that's what they used. I'll stick with that, since there's nothing to gain just by changing the yoke part to a 7260 type.
They make some high nickel content u-joints in 7290 anyways and I'm not going to be drag racing anytime soon.

I reckon it's off to order a yoke. :)

Yoke inside dimension: 2-1/8" = 7260, 2-5/8" = 7290
Double check your 2 5/8" inside measurement because that is the big one and should be fine stock (as long as you aren't using wrinkle walls and sidestepping the clutch) :)
 
Yoke inside dimension: 2-1/8" = 7260, 2-5/8" = 7290
Double check your 2 5/8" inside measurement because that is the big one and should be fine stock (as long as you aren't using wrinkle walls and sidestepping the clutch) :)
Yessir, they're both the 2 5/8" measurement. Got under the car this morning to verify.
I guess I'm misspeaking? I thought the 2 1/8" ones were the heavier duty ("bigger") ones?
 
Yessir, they're both the 2 5/8" measurement. Got under the car this morning to verify.
I guess I'm misspeaking? I thought the 2 1/8" ones were the heavier duty ("bigger") ones?

The 7290 ( 2-5/8" ) is considered the heavy duty one:thumbsup:
 
The 7290 ( 2-5/8" ) is considered the heavy duty one:thumbsup:
Well I reckon that's some good news. Thanks!

In other good news, test reports are coming in now. Apparently white cell counts are within normal. I'll take it. :)
Sonogram next, followed by evil long needle biopsy if needed....
 
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Your build thread was really thorough and personal, best I've read in a long time.
Glad to see you are getting to the finish line.
 
The pilot bearing bushing that you did install earlier in your crankshaft-- was it a brass one , or was it a sintered bronze one intended for that purpose? You probably know that pilot bearing bushing needs to be sinterted bronze, as they are self lubricating. ....................................MO
 
Yea Mo, I was thinking about that also.
I used a parts store (Napa) bushing I thought was good.
I put some grease on the snout of the input, was making a really bad noise when the clutch pedal was engaged.
IMO,The bearing that goes in the register seems to be a better way to go if you are yanking the trans again.
How does everyone else feel about the register bearing VS the bushing?
 
Your build thread was really thorough and personal, best I've read in a long time.
Glad to see you are getting to the finish line.
Wow. You humble me, sir. Very much appreciate that.
Yessir, we'll get there, hell or high water. If not, at least the contingency plans I've written for my wife grows shorter as we go.
Thanks again! :thumbsup:
 
The pilot bearing bushing that you did install earlier in your crankshaft-- was it a brass one , or was it a sintered bronze one intended for that purpose? You probably know that pilot bearing bushing needs to be sinterted bronze, as they are self lubricating. ....................................MO
It was the one Dan Brewer sold me. There ya go, totally non-committal answer right there. :)
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=PB329
 
Yea Mo, I was thinking about that also.
I used a parts store (Napa) bushing I thought was good.
I put some grease on the snout of the input, was making a really bad noise when the clutch pedal was engaged.
IMO,The bearing that goes in the register seems to be a better way to go if you are yanking the trans again.
How does everyone else feel about the register bearing VS the bushing?
Yep, I already have the roller bearing type. Yep, we'll tear the whole clutch off and start from scratch, taking the bushing out
and installing the roller instead.
Dan's confirming to me that I don't need to worry about lopping off the end of the input shaft helped quite a bit, but I want
that bushing outta there just for peace of mind.
 
Update 4/17/18:
Having failed to get him by phone this morning, I decided to try via text.
I informed him that I had decided to crate his transmission up as it had come and to return it; I further explained that I wanted to simply get a refund.
I figured he'd not be pleased about that, but he instead replied that this was acceptable to him.
I then asked that I get a "will call" prepaid shipping label, which he also readily agreed to.

I had already contacted the mechanic earlier in the morning and asked if he wanted to give my old transmission a whirl at fixing, which he readily agreed to and stated he would bring his own "expert" in on the process as well - but there would be no charge or estimate until they got mine apart and diagnosed.
Works for me. :)

Somewhat surprised, I told Jamie what the plan was with my old transmission and that I'd just like to go that route, rather than risk the shipment of yet another unit from him.
I mentioned my out of pocket losses of yesterday for towing and the mechanics' time; I told him the new plan was that once my old transmission had been repaired, we would tow the GTX back to the mechanic, where we'd remove the Passon unit from the car and put it back in the crate, then install my old one in the car, hopefully ending up with my car back as whole and the Passon unit ready for shipping.
He replied that he was fine with a simple return and that I'd be receiving a FULL refund of everything I had paid him; he asked that I let him know when the
unit was ready to ship, when he would email me the shipping stuff to get ready for UPS to come get it.
I was quite relieved to read that message, received while I sat in the waiting room of the endocrinology department of the major hospital in the area - as you might have surmised, the next episode of "Ed's body is failing" is currently in progress, but I digress....

I replied something like "atta boy, Jamie, there ya go" and he said that this had been the plan all along.
I replied that I understood that stuff happens and that I know he's busy as hell, but that the previous days' interaction had left me non-plussed to say the least.
I offered that he might want to get some help and he replied that he'd work on that and was sorry things didn't work out.
I am too, honestly.

Bottom line as of now:
1. My old transmission is already in the hands of the mechanic, who will contact me when they figure out what's up with it.
2. Jamie Passon stood up and is doing the right thing here.
What a difference a day makes, eh? Yes, I'm very relieved and content for the moment, especially in light of the news I got at the docs'.

It's always good to get a little bit of ones' faith in humanity restored and Jamie did so for me today. :)
Glad to hear on both the transmission and the doc. Hang in there. Your on the right path.
 
Minor Update 4/18/18:
Spoke with the transmission guy today. He reports the teardown of my old transmission revealed the need for
two main bearings and one front gasket.
That's it, everything else looked fine. :)
I reckon it will be ready to go back in the car tomorrow.
We'll get the GTX towed back over Monday and do all this over again.

P.S. - Once using my old one again is said and done and I get the refund for the Passon one, it will wind
up costing half what it would have with the "new" one.
Fingers crossed.
 
You are going to put some gear lube in it I hope?

wut.jpg
wait-what.jpg
Sam-L-Jackson-Say-Wut-Again.png
 
While I wait for the transmission guy to rebuild mine, it occurred to me today what the other discovery was while I was under the GTX
on the lift the other day - the oil pan.
Yep, my beat up old factory steel oil pan, something I've never given much thought to. It came on the engine when I bought it and I
did go around it and tighten all the bolts at one point because there is a leak, enough to form a small slick under the car in the garage -
but I never thought much about it otherwise.

We were under the car and the mechanic dude noticed the oil, so he hosed down the pan with brake cleaner, then wiped it dry so we could see where any
fresh oil leaked as we worked under there.
Sure enough, after about 5 minutes the bottom of the pan started getting wet again - but the leaks weren't coming from gaskets or
filters or any of that, but from the pan itself - it has pinholes in the bottom, looks to be from rust/corrosion? :eek:
Never thought I'd see that....

It's the "699" pan they used in '72 as it should be (the block is a '72). 440 Source says that pan is identical physically to the "187".
The sump part is typically bashed in some, so I was going to replace it one day anyways.
The pan feels thick as heck, not at all thin, so these pinholes are somewhat mystifying to me.
Eh, maybe I'll get a fancy cast aluminum one to replace it once all this transmission business is over.
Just found that odd is all.
 
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