I think I broke it already

[NJRR]

It has arrived. VERY well packaged:
View attachment 593250
I don't see any damage at all. For what they charge to crate and ship ($200!) there best not be.

Reckon it's time to holler at the garage.

By the way, just how much "slop" should there be in the input shaft?
This one turns freely for sure, but it has quite a bit of slop to it.

 

[khryslerkid]

By the way, just how much "slop" should there be in the input shaft?
This one turns freely for sure, but it has quite a bit of slop to it.

They all have play out there on the end. Some more than others. There's nothing to hold it true until it sits in the pilot bearing. Just one bearing on the shaft inside the trans.

Now I don't know if there's a difference between useing a roller type bearing on the inside verses a ball bearing, if it would be less play? I don't remember what the norm is anymore, roller or ball.

Glad you finally received it! Believe me I got the itch to get the '62 out.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Ed what's that blue bulge, excitement ? Good luck!!
If your pilot bushing is worn funny bell housing alignment issue.

 

[moparwacko]

Tranny woody!!

Uh, that didn't sound right.

I myself have a special feeling for 833's, just maybe not as much as Ed.




There is so much material here. ......
I already heard he was manipulating the shaft. Checking for "slop", is that considered foreplay?


Just funnin with you Ed,
Enjoy!!

 

[eldubb440]

There is so much material here. ......
I already heard he was manipulating the shaft. Checking for "slop", is that considered foreplay?

let's just hope it's not a leaker

 

[moparedtn]

Ed what's that blue bulge, excitement ? Good luck!!
If your pilot bushing is worn funny bell housing alignment issue.

Oh man, you had to go and say it, didn't ya?
I didn't even notice that until you said it.
It's my floppy old sweatshirt dangling. I WISH I walked around with iron in the crotch anymore.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Oh man, you had to go and say it, didn't ya?
I didn't even notice that until you said it.
It's my floppy old sweatshirt dangling. I WISH I walked around with iron in the crotch anymore.

Ed, it kinda stuck out.

 

[eldubb440]

if that bulge persists over 4 hours this will help

 

[eldubb440]

 

[moparwacko]

Well, well, well .......
The "old floppy sweatshirt" ??


Has the Mrs called Jamie and ordered another one for indoor use?


We all love ya my friend

 

[moparedtn]

Ed, it kinda stuck out.

if that bulge persists over 4 hours this will help

View attachment 593350

View attachment 593354

Well, well, well .......
The "old floppy sweatshirt" ??


Has the Mrs called Jamie and ordered another one for indoor use?


We all love ya my friend

 

[moparedtn]

Appointment set for the shop w/lift for this Monday. Dude doesn't sound intimidated at all. Told him I'd be under there wrenching too.

 

[moparedtn]

Well, here I am up already for hours, mulling over all that is about to occur this morning - at least, hopefully occurring today.

The question that is gnawing at me right now is - will I have to cut off the input shaft of this transmission?
I've got the roller input bearing for it and will not be using the old brass bushing this time, but since I think this engine has a forged crank (no, I don't know for sure and it is a 1972 block, but who knows how it was built) but....
is it possible I was able to "force" the old transmission all the way on the bellhousing last time by use of the mounting bolts even if the crank isn't drilled for a 4 speed?
I mean, you'd have to like saw off 3/4" off the input shaft if the crank ISN'T drilled for a 4 speed, right?
I can't imagine all the internals of the current 4 speed taking up all that if the crank isn't drilled, but what do I know?

If it's any clue, the brass bushing did press right into the recess in the back of the crank last time like it was supposed to. Does that indicate the crank IS drilled for a 4 speed?

I know the fella I bought the engine from was running it in a 4 speed Charger, so there's that....

 

[moparwacko]

Relax Mr Ed, in a few hours the GTX will deliver a healthy baby boy.

Ok, that aside:
If you sourced a standard pilot bushing, and it fit, then it was finish reamed for a standard transmission.
Then you installed a trans not matching the engine and it fit. There is no way it would physically bolt up if the crank wasn't drilled to finish depth.
When you have the old trans out, compare the input shafts, it will become readily apparent if either was cut.
Have fun my friend.

 

[moparedtn]

Relax Mr Ed, in a few hours the GTX will deliver a healthy baby boy.

Ok, that aside:
If you sourced a standard pilot bushing, and it fit, then it was finish reamed for a standard transmission.
Then you installed a trans not matching the engine and it fit. There is no way it would physically bolt up if the crank wasn't drilled to finish depth.
When you have the old trans out, compare the input shafts, it will become readily apparent if either was cut.
Have fun my friend.

Thank you for that reassurance!!!
Here goes nothing. I'd take pics and post them, but that would be some boring shiyat for most folks...

 

[NJRR]

Thank you for that reassurance!!!
Here goes nothing. I'd take pics and post them, but that would be some boring shiyat for most folks...

We ain't most folks !!!!

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Well, here I am up already for hours, mulling over all that is about to occur this morning - at least, hopefully occurring today.

The question that is gnawing at me right now is - will I have to cut off the input shaft of this transmission?
I've got the roller input bearing for it and will not be using the old brass bushing this time, but since I think this engine has a forged crank (no, I don't know for sure and it is a 1972 block, but who knows how it was built) but....
is it possible I was able to "force" the old transmission all the way on the bellhousing last time by use of the mounting bolts even if the crank isn't drilled for a 4 speed?
I mean, you'd have to like saw off 3/4" off the input shaft if the crank ISN'T drilled for a 4 speed, right?
I can't imagine all the internals of the current 4 speed taking up all that if the crank isn't drilled, but what do I know?

If it's any clue, the brass bushing did press right into the recess in the back of the crank last time like it was supposed to. Does that indicate the crank IS drilled for a 4 speed?

I know the fella I bought the engine from was running it in a 4 speed Charger, so there's that....

Don't cut off any of the input shaft. Since you are using the T.C. hub located bearing , you don't need the Crank pilot bearing bushing. It may have been your original problem if there was not enough clearance. . If I were you, I would take that bushing out as you no longer need it. I think I told you that earlier..but I am just a dummy ! .................................MO

 

[moparedtn]

Update:

Old transmission came out easy peasy.
We looked right at the bushing in the back of the crank through the clutch hole and it looked spiffy, so we
decided the heck with the roller bearing, especially since the old transmission input shaft showed no damage.
In went the "new transmission", darn near as easily as the old one came out; it hung up a little right at about a
half inch left, but a little wrasslin' and it plunked right on home.
Everything reassembled, fluid topped off, jumped in it for a test drive and....

I got about 100 yards before all hell broke loose.
The thing started making a noise like a small block Chevy makes when it needs a LOT of shimming on the starter
motor (yeah, THAT noise) anytime the clutch was engaged. It would quit in 1st or 2nd with the clutch in; in 3rd,
it didn't matter if it was in or out. Pure death squeal.

I managed to get it back to the shop and up in the air it went again. Rechecked everything.
Finally, I got up in the car while the shop owner (who has rebuilt a bunch of transmissions in his time) traced the source
from below the car while I made it do it.
He said "transmission, 3-4 part."
I called Jamie Passon on the spot...

Jamie asks to hear the noise over the phone and says "catastrophic failure", whatever the hell that means.
We talked about the reverse detent retainer bolt (which was not tightened when the unit arrived, so we tightened it)
and he sounded 1)pissed off and 2)dubious of what I was telling him despite his hearing it with his own ears.
Said he'd send another one out "this week probably" and made sure to say "but if the next one does the same thing,
Ed, that's on you."
Yeah, no **** Sherlock....

Results of the day were a nice ride back home on a rollback with a now crippled car ($$$), payment due to the shop
for their work this time (and next time if we do this when the next one arrives) and apparently I even have to pay freight
to get the warranty unit back to Jamie.

I'm exhausted, frozen and on the verge of packing it in.....

 

[Billccm]

It's time for some "failure analysis ". Do not replace another until it is known what failed today.

 

[moparedtn]

It's time for some "failure analysis ". Do not replace another until it is known what failed today.

The only difference today were the transmissions themselves.
In fact, the "old" transmission did great on the drive over to the shop this morning, but I didn't go over 45, the trigger speed for the noise it makes.

When Jamie asked if his transmissions' 3 shift levers moved freely into and out of their detents, the answer was "ewwww" when the 3-4 lever was moved (shifter disconnected to eliminate it).
The reverse and 1-2 felt ok.

For comparison, I did the same test on my old one - and all 3 levers moved beautifully to all positions using just my fingers.
Yep, mechanic was correct - problem is in the 3-4 sector somewhere. Process of elimination.