themechanic
Oklahoma is OK
The reason I say that is I had to buy the tool and back mine off because they clamped down on the rotor and dragged.
I think that I want better brakes........
- Thread starter Kern Dog
- Start date
KD
Been doing some reading on this. It seems
Ford master cylinders have a built in residual
check valve that keeps the pads in slight
contact with the rotor. If you're running
Mustang calipers, you may need to install
a 10# residual check vale to simulate the
Ford master cylinder.
Been doing some reading on this. It seems
Ford master cylinders have a built in residual
check valve that keeps the pads in slight
contact with the rotor. If you're running
Mustang calipers, you may need to install
a 10# residual check vale to simulate the
Ford master cylinder.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Did you find a article that specified 10# ? Cause typically disc brakes that do use a residual pressure valve take a 2# valve..
I didn't find anything that specified which one to
use in this case. I know the 10# is typically used
on the rear for drum brakes, and a 2# on the
front. (rear brakes react before fronts to prevent
nose dive). If KD converted drums to disc that
residual valve might already be there and is
maybe not functioning correctly.
Rears react before fronts?
I don't know enough to dispute this but it sounds strange for this to be the case.
I don't know enough to dispute this but it sounds strange for this to be the case.
Has to do with brake bias as disc/drum rear
reaction time is slower on the rear.
I'm running disc/disc with no residual check
valves, with an adjustable proportioning valve.
I've got Ford calipers on the front and Mopar
calipers on the rear. I'm able to dial in the
differences in front line pressure without the
check valve in the (Mopar) master cylinder.
No pedal lag and she stops straight and true.
I noticed you changed your pedal ratio. This
also will have a affect on pedal effort.
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