If you were to start from almost nothing - and build a Dana for 66 Satellite

[Garceau]

I am going to need to swap out the 8.75 from my 66 for a Dana 60

I obviously have the option of starting with a complete new set up - from Moser with disc brakes about 4200 bucks. That is about as complete and bolt in as possible. From Strange a little cheaper (when did strange become cheaper) but its not quite plug and play, which really isnt that big of a deal. But moser only wanted 200 bucks for it to be complete vs piecing it together.

Obviously there is the option of starting with a old housing, narrowing it to appropriate dimensions and appropriate ends for brakes etc. My lil bro has a chassis shop and this isnt a concern at all, he has the jigs etc. But piecing together all the components including new diff/gear/bearings etc - not overly complicated. With starting new - axles, diff, gears, install kit, ends etc I am at almost 2k without the housing etc.



Has anyone started from mostly scratch and done either of the above - approximate pricing?

 

[Fran Blacker]

I did it but bought a housing for $50 spring perches cut off so that was a cheap start. Ebay $130 axles SG $250, had gears, had 10" brakes complete, sruds and nuts for BP $30 brake spliter $35 spring perches $45 had a yoke and rear cover. This was 20 years ago. Only way I'd do it agin if there was no other way. Never assembled it dumped it for $950. Buy Dana parts on ebay now isn't easy. Maybe swap meets which I didn't do.

 

[kiwigtx]

I started with nothing, and still have most of it left.

 

[eldubb440]

I did it but bought a housing for $50 spring perches cut off so that was a cheap start. Ebay $130 axles SG $250, had gears, had 10" brakes complete, sruds and nuts for BP $30 brake spliter $35 spring perches $45 had a yoke and rear cover. This was 20 years ago. Only way I'd do it agin if there was no other way. Never assembled it dumped it for $950. Buy Dana parts on ebay now isn't easy. Maybe swap meets which I didn't do.

what did you do for a pinion snubber?

 

[446acuda]

If you can find a junkyard truck housing with a Powr Lok and the gear ratio that you want, you are just axles and housing ends away from done since drum brakes from a 9.25, 8.75, or 8.25 are everywhere. Or you could use Ford 3.15" housing ends and cheap, common Explorer disc brakes. Get the yoke you need from other Dana 60s or 70s in the yard-7260, 7290, 1330 and 1350 yokes are all easy to find for a Dana. Get 35 spline internals out a Dana 70 powr lok.

If you could find all this stuff in different rear ends in the same pull a part yard, you would be starting with less than $200 in it. Not bad for a days work.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Try Dr. Diff. I priced an all new unit from him without brakes for $2300 + shipping. I priced all stock 67 specifications, same for 66. They may have increased a bit in the last few months, but still less expensive than piecing together something yourself. He has brake options also, but I have my own 11X2.5 rear brakes already as that was what I'm doing. Estimated shipping was about $250 from Cass

 

[Garceau]

Try Dr. Diff. I priced an all new unit from him without brakes for $2300 + shipping. I priced all stock 67 specifications, same for 66. They may have increased a bit in the last few months, but still less expensive than piecing together something yourself. He has brake options also, but I have my own 11X2.5 rear brakes already as that was what I'm doing. Estimated shipping was about $250 from Cass

Oh thank you....never even thought of them. Just kind of gravitated to the big names (and big prices)

 

[dadsbee]

Why do you "have to" swap out the 8 3/4" ?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Didn't have one. No gears or brakes in picture. What do you want for the $950 I sold this stuff for? Forgott $90 bucks for bearing set.

 

[dadsbee]

I was asking the OP Fran....

 

[Garceau]

Why do you "have to" swap out the 8 3/4" ?

If I want to take it to the track at all, with the new motor set up and converter - I would feel a lot better with the Dana. Although it would be footbraked, which takes a ton of strain off the driveline compared to the transbrake.

I have went mid 10s with an 8.75 but it was in a light lighter car. So I know at times they are capable. But I bought this car and have no idea the internals at this point, the lash or how it was set up.

Nothing says I "have to" some of it is just a sense of security, swapping to disc brakes at the time, moving springs in and a few other minor rear chassis upgrades (although moving springs in on a 66 I dont think gives as much as the later years as the actual rear wheel wells are a limiting factor) just working on some winter time upgrades while its -50 out there

 

[dadsbee]

Fair enough, nowhere did it say your plans where to drag race the car. Mine already had that life... LOL

 

[Garceau]

Its probably one of those things where it may see the track once or twice and since I am several hours away from the track - Id hate to crunch something. Heck I do enough stupid **** driving I would hate to crunch it anywhere. I am really on the fence about the switch. it most likely may be one of the last things on the list for this year and if I dont get to it, and run outta money - maybe its a next year thing.

I can never leave well enough alone and get a little too deep with stuff.... but hey, its cheaper than drugs and hookers

On the flip side and literally the other end of the car - my brother is jonesing to make a tube frame K member and a-arm front end for it. He is disappointed there is such a lack of these for mopars and wants to market a few of them and have a decent little additional cash flow. I told him I would only be OK with it, as long as it retains the stock appearance and can return to stock if someone wants to at a later date. But man it drives so good right now

 

[Runcharger]

I bought a Dana 60 out of a halfton mid 60's Ford P.U. for $50, it had a Powr Lok and 3.54 gears which I ran. I bought 35 spline side gears for the powr Lok along with new clutch plates, found some SS A-body 35 spline axles (rare, you won't find them) and cut the axle ends off an 8 3/4. Another $800 to a Pro axle guy to narrow the housing. All in with new bearings and yoke I was under $1500. I was patient though. It all went into this 64 and the width was perfect for the antique Torq Thrust wheels I had.
In your case call Dr. Diff I don't think you'll beat what he can do for you.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Didn't have one. No gears or brakes in picture. What do you want for the $950 I sold this stuff for? Forgott $90 bucks for bearing set.View attachment 1391310

I was asking the OP Fran....

Was replying to @eldubb440 forgot to hit reply.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I started with nothing, and still have most of it left.

Funny, there seems to be extra parts too

 

[gtx6970]

I used one from Dr Diff in a 1970 Cuda build. No complaints

 

[snakeoil24]

Believe me it’s not worth building from old stuff suck it up by new use Ford ends 20 m bearings with disc brakes1350 yoke detroit cone position and be happy and no green bearings please

 

[eldubb440]

Was replying to @eldubb440 forgot to hit reply.

Thanks, I was just curious

 

[dvw]

It depends if you can weld and have a fixture to hold the ends square. If so it's $1000-1500 depending on axle type, new gear set, sure grip or spool. Heck use the original gears and bearings, used 8 3/4 ends, new spool and axles like $600-$700
Doug