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If you were to start from almost nothing - and build a Dana for 66 Satellite

It depends if you can weld and have a fixture to hold the ends square. If so it's $1000-1500 depending on axle type, new gear set, sure grip or spool. Heck use the original gears and bearings, used 8 3/4 ends, new spool and axles like $600-$700
Doug

I can't weld ****. But my brother owns a race chassis shop.
 
I would just go to Dr Diff and be dome with it. As Doug said, unless you can do the fab yourself all of the running around and parts chasing won't be worth it. If you are going to beat on it go with a s-trac locker over a traditional power-lok.
 
I currently run a factory 68 Dana 60 with a stock 3.73 sure grip. It’s got Moser 23 spline axles going 1.32 60’ in a 3950# car. The sure grip was rebuilt in 2005 and is probably needing it again. I scored a Ford truck Dana with a 4.10 trac-lock for $150. I cut ends off an 8-3/4 housing I had and put on it. I had a spool on the shelf so I guess I’m into it for about $350 at this point. 35 Spline factory replacement axles are $475 so it’s pretty low buck at this point. I don’t see the lack of pinion snubber as an issue unless you’re gonna race it, in which case you‘d be better of with CalTrac bars. If it’s got any power at all, it’ll just spin on the street.
 
I currently run a factory 68 Dana 60 with a stock 3.73 sure grip. It’s got Moser 23 spline axles going 1.32 60’ in a 3950# car. The sure grip was rebuilt in 2005 and is probably needing it again. I scored a Ford truck Dana with a 4.10 trac-lock for $150. I cut ends off an 8-3/4 housing I had and put on it. I had a spool on the shelf so I guess I’m into it for about $350 at this point. 35 Spline factory replacement axles are $475 so it’s pretty low buck at this point. I don’t see the lack of pinion snubber as an issue unless you’re gonna race it, in which case you‘d be better of with CalTrac bars. If it’s got any power at all, it’ll just spin on the street.
Thanks.... it'll have some power. Not exactly sure how much. But I'm guessing maybe too much for the 8.75

If I were to guess at the motor maybe 700hp???? 505, roller cam, high flowing indy heads etc.

It'll get a cal-trac type set up. My Lil bro owns a chassis shop and has a few different rear set ups he likes on the street with a little better set up than standard ss springs.

At this point Dr. Diff looking like the best option. I know some guys have had fine luck with 8.75s. I've ran into the mid tens with them in a lighter car. But thinking it's best to just buy once, cry once !
 
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