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In search for a mild performance upgrade...

1966Coronet

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Will this combination give what i'm looking for? I wanna a nice idle-exhaust note, nice throttle response, from idle and rolling without breaking the bank.

So far i have acquire an Edelbrock Performer Series Intake Manifold (dual-plenum), Edelbrock Carburetor 650 cfm, Edelbrock Cam and Lifter kit with the following specs.

Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range
1,200-5,000Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
204Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
214Duration at 050 inch Lift
204 int./214 exh.Advertised Intake Duration
262Advertised Exhaust Duration
272Advertised Duration
262 int./272 exh.

Without altering the lower end, will this give me what im looking for, im also planning on replacing the valve springs and valves.

Thanks for any feedback!
 
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I am assuming a 318? This will be a nice little combo with good throttle response and should net you a nice little bump in power when combined with a free flowing dual exhaust. Be sure and upgrade the ignition if you have not done so already.
 
yeah it is a completely stock 318 that came with the 4 door coronet. As far as ignition upgrade what are you suggesting? Should i get rid of the point set and go completely electronic ignition? And do you think that I should go ahead and change the timing gears?

Thanks for the reply...
 
1966Coronet,
If you are looking for a performance upgrade over stock I think it is the right move. Not too much but just enough. Add some headers and good dual exhaust with h-pipe you will be in business. Definately should wake it up.
 
I am assuming a 318? This will be a nice little combo with good throttle response and should net you a nice little bump in power when combined with a free flowing dual exhaust. Be sure and upgrade the ignition if you have not done so already.

I agree with Greg upgrade the ignition. If nothing else do the basic tune up replacement parts until you can upgrade to pertronics or Mopar performance stuff.
 
What gears do you have? Cars weight?

I used the next step up cam, 218 intake duration IIRC. Power started just a bit off idle. But it was in a Duster and a dead stock 318 with basic bolt on's besides the cam.

Points suck.
I would do a MoPar electronic distributor fired by a Chrome box. My MSD's always fail me. The few I did have that were good were very good for the car/engine power, mileage and quick starting abilty. But with my luck, if I do not have a back up box, I'm left stranded.
 
I'd say you are on the right track and I'll agree with the rest that say free up the exhaust, even if it's just adding 2-1/4" duals. Also put in a double roller timing chain since you'll have it apart.

For ignition the MoPar orange box kit is fine. I'm running the orange box on my 440 without issues. The main benefit will be a proper performance oriented distributor curve.
 
What gears do you have? Cars weight?

I used the next step up cam, 218 intake duration IIRC. Power started just a bit off idle. But it was in a Duster and a dead stock 318 with basic bolt on's besides the cam.

Points suck.
I would do a MoPar electronic distributor fired by a Chrome box. My MSD's always fail me. The few I did have that were good were very good for the car/engine power, mileage and quick starting abilty. But with my luck, if I do not have a back up box, I'm left stranded.

What gears do i have? Wow, i guess thats gonna be my next forum question. I dont really know. Since its my first project car, and my first classic Mopar.
 
Assuming the rear end hasn't been apart there should be a metal tag on one of the cover or third member bolts with the ratio stamped on it.
 
this is probably off the wall but wouldn't upgrading the heads while the motor is down for a cam change be the best and reasonably priced upgrade at this point. you can always put the headers and ignition to it after assembly with out tearing down again as your wallet can afford it. the double roller chain also while its down. the new ignition and exhaust cost will probably cover the head upgrade. i would do the gears last when you can afford it.

my .02 cents
 
Is this a 66 coronet 318 your talking about?? If so then it is a poly head engine and none of the stuff you say you have will fit.
 
Considering he just said this is his first muscle/MoPar, great catch. Are Your valve covers straight or wavy on the bottom edge?
 
where did this end up. does he have the right parts or not. inquireing minds want to know.
 
:eek::eek::eek:wow guys you guys now have really throw me to a wall here!!!! The parts might not fit! I wont be able to sleep tonight thinking about it. I just got back from Atlanta and havent had a chance to see your feedback, I dont want my neighbors to see me uncovering the car at 2 in the morning to check the valve covers, but they will sure see me at 6! Bitting my nails :icon_hang:!

So if the valve covers are wavy at the base Im screwed... can I just change the heads if thats the case?
 
:hello2:Guys found this picture, I think its safe to say that the valve covers are straight
554387_2575731972304_1824486129_1521296_1937409572_n.jpg
 
Found also this remark in another thread... will revise it tomorrow. Im pasting it in case somebody needs it!


Casting Number CID Year Type Remarks
2202843 170 1960-64 G
2463230 170 1965 G
2463395 170 - G
2264478 170 - G
2205630 170 - G
2463430 225 1966 RG
2806830 225 1968-70 RG Includes 198
3462605 225 1975 RG
2951694 225 - RG
2202857 225 - RG
2205528 225 - RG
2465330 273 1964-66 LA
2806030 273 1966-69 LA
2463252 273 - LA
2536130 273 1965-69 LA
2806130 273 1966-69 LA
2264230 318 1960-66 A Polysphere
2468230 318 - A Polysphere
2532630 318 - A Polysphere
2466090 318 1967-74 LA
2806030 318 1966-69 LA
2806030 318 1967-74 LA
2536030 318 1967-75 LA
2566080 318 - LA
4104230 318 - LA Race - Painted Orange
2780930 340 1968-73 LA Except T/A & AAR
3577130TA 340 - 6 bbl 1970 LA T/A & AAR
1944929 350 1958
3418496 360 1971-74 LA
3870230 360 1975-78 LA
4179930 360 1975-1993 LA
1737629 361 1961-64 B
2120329 361 1958-66 B
2120429 361 - B
2128854 361 1964 B
2205712 361 1958-66 B
1945429 361 1965 B
2658930 361 1965 B
2120229 361 - B Industrial
1852029 413 1959-62 RB Max Perf. & Truck
2120529 413 1959-65 RB
2205697 413 1959-65 RB Passenger Car
2468030 413 - RB
2658836 413 - RB Industrial
2205697 426 1964 RB Passenger Car
2406730 426 1963-65 RB Wedge & Max Perf.
1852029 426 1962-65 RB Wedge
2468030 426 - RB Wedge
2440873 426 - RB Wedge
2532230 426 1964-66 RB Wedge & Max Perf.
2658836 426 - RB Industrial
1851729 383 1959-64 B
2128854 383 1964 B
2532130 383 1965 B
2120329 383 1959-60 RB Golden Lion
2899830 383 1970 B
2568130 383 1959-71 B
2468330 426 1964-71 RB Hemi Head
2536430 440 1966-72 RB
2658836 426 - RB Industrial
3614230 400 1971-72 B
3698630 400 1973-78 B
4006530 400 1976-78 B
3698830 440 1973-78 RB
4006530 400 1976-78 B
4006630 440 1978 RB
 
Sorry, but that is a poly head engine, I.ve got a car just like yours sitting in my driveway now. So now you can decide to build the polyhead or spring for an LA engine to drop all your goodies in.
 
So being a polyhead means that no carb, no intake, no camshaft lifters will work?
Wow, ive been reading alot about the poly engines, they are great! But it seems like its gonna take alot of money to get to where i want to get it. I think im gonna go and look for an "la" engine. But im not going to get rid of this poly powerplant. No way jose!
 
WOW that sure is a beauty... that looks awsome. But I have to take into consideration a mortgage, 2 kids, 2 dogs, and a wife that is already starting to hate the UPS guys for bringing me parts. jajjaaja. I sure like the rarity of the POLY and the all the potential that it has. Im gonna drop in another engine in the car, but im defenitaly keeping the POLY, just to play with it.


And for those wondering it is a POLY, the valvecovers are wavy on the outer edge.
 
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