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input shaft goes smooth but won't go in pilot bearing

Runner71

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So, putting a new clutch in ( manual ). Won't go in the pilot bearing the last bit .5" left slides like butter until that. Alignment tool slides all the way easy and I payed good attention when centered the disc and cross pattern when thighten then torque it in 2step for final. Ive only slide the motorn on to the tranny not the otherway around, but this time i don't need to pull the motor out for anything.

Is there a trick to it or just pain? Pull the last inches with bolts? Could that damage anything?
should I take the tranny down unbolt everything and Re-center the disc again? freakin annoying for sure..
20220726_205226.jpg
 
Make sure the trans is damn near perfectly square with the bell. Maybe a couple of all threads or long bolts with the heads cut off to help with alignment. If all looks good lightly have someone push in the clutch while you hold tension on the trans.

Do not pull in with bolts.
 
Make sure the trans is damn near perfectly square with the bell. Maybe a couple of all threads or long bolts with the heads cut off to help with alignment. If all looks good lightly have someone push in the clutch while you hold tension on the trans.

Do not pull in with bolts.

If you have plenty of depth in the crank for the transmission input shaft and your bell housing is aligned, the clutch disk might be just a hair off center. Even when I have used a clutch disk alignment tool, I couldn't get it just right. I've heard some install by having someone push the clutch to re-center it. On my car the first time it went together with the new engine/transmission, I ended up having to rotate the engine and loosen the pressure plate bolts a little at a time to allow the clutch disk to float with the transmission about where you have it. Then it went together easily then and I reversed the process to tighten/torque the pressure plate bolts.

Whatever you do don't try to force it together.
 
Yup. Im replacing what I put in 3 seasons ago, but that last time I had the trans left under the car still mounted in the tail. Maybe I'll just unbolt,clean and re-center the damn thing. Should be done by now :praying:
 
Have tried putting it in gear and turning the output shaft a bit?
 
Have tried putting it in gear and turning the output shaft a bit?
Kinda, put in Reverse and turned it, even turned the crank over to see if it would pop in the last bit. Last time I slide motor on to the trans it was almost to easy, so I was thinking i'll be done with clutch swap in like 4hours and now it's 11hours later and still haven't slide in the last inches.. Guess i'll just re-center it
 
Like already said, have someone push in the clutch while you push the transmission in.

This usually works if putting the yoke in, putting the transmission in gear and slightly turning the input fails. Just have someone slowly depress the clutch pedal while your squaring up the transmission and wiggling it in. It‘s not failed me but if it does, I would suspect some parts incompatibility issue.
 
Like already said, have someone push in the clutch while you push the transmission in.

This usually works if putting the yoke in, putting the transmission in gear and slightly turning the input fails. Just have someone slowly depress the clutch pedal while your squaring up the transmission and wiggling it in. It‘s not failed me but if it does, I would suspect some parts incompatibility issue.

Guess I could mount the z bar and fork and have someone depress the pedal and see if it would slide in. Appreciate all the input guys:thumbsup:
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As stated above every time I have had that problem getting someone to push in the clutch would let it go in that last little bit.
Just recently on an old Oliver tractor that I had Z split for an engine rebuild and new clutch and seals. We fought bringing the 2 halves back together till my helper stepped on the clutch pedal and it slammed together.
 
Judging by the pic, the trans is bolted to the bellhousing before sliding it into the clutch.
Do I have that correct, and does that method work well?

Turning the output shaft with it in gear worked for me, the one time it wouldn't go.
 
Decided to take everything down and re-center the disk again so it must have been alignment issues! Went in like butter, moneyshot right away. So I guess take the time and check everything, also this time I hade my father to help me align the trans before sliding it in, alot easier then doing everything on your own:lol:
20220727_211946.jpg

And yes, the bellhouse was still mounted to trans since I didn't want all the work with the indicator and align the housing.


Thanks for all the Input guys, this is a goldmine for a rookie like me!
 
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I should have mentioned, I always install 3 or 4” long dowels it the upper bellhousing to transmission bolt holes to hang the transmission on and carry the weight while I concentrate on leveling the transmission with the engine and pushing it in. Of course if you were using a transmission jack then the wouldn’t help any.
 
When adjusting the pedal free play to around 1" in the cab? should there be any clearance between throwout bearing and the pressure plate?
 
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Yes there should be Some small gap - maybe 1/16”. Do you have the lower spring running from the clutch fork to the lower leg of the z-bar? I think I actually fabricated this one up so an original or reproduction one might appear a little different.

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Decided to take everything down and re-center the disk again so it must have been alignment issues!

I've accidentally let a little weight hang on the input shaft installing a standard trans and it can move the disk just enough that you'll be fighting it.

Glad you got her in :thumbsup:
 
I've accidentally let a little weight hang on the input shaft installing a standard trans and it can move the disk just enough that you'll be fighting it.

Glad you got her in :thumbsup:
Probably exactly what happend this time.
 
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