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Installed new exhaust/mufflers, now the 440 gets hot...

beanhead

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Usually, even after driving around town in traffic for awhile would get to 185-190 tops...swapped the 2-1/2" pipes w/ super turbos for a 3"system w/ ultraflows. After driving around for 20-30 minutes, pulled in to the driveway and left it in gear with the E-brake on to inspect for leaks, rattles etc...noticed the temp at the neck was up to 212, with my IR gun...what the heck?? (New tti ceramic-coated headers went on too if it matters..) timing still ok at 20 btdc, idle mixture is good...your help is much appreciated!
 
Generally speaking when you go to a less restrictive exhaust your engine will run leaner and thus hotter.
 
20-25 degrees hotter I wouldn't think it could change that much? Running an 850 Demon on edelbrock rpm heads, XE274 cam, chrome ECU, ngk 6e plugs @ .035"...Demon currently jetted 85/93, been working very well, regularly street driven with some good 'ol fashion romps (2 minutes and I'm out in the country lol..)
 
Usually, even after driving around town in traffic for awhile would get to 185-190 tops...swapped the 2-1/2" pipes w/ super turbos for a 3"system w/ ultraflows. After driving around for 20-30 minutes, pulled in to the driveway and left it in gear with the E-brake on to inspect for leaks, rattles etc...noticed the temp at the neck was up to 212, with my IR gun...what the heck?? (New tti ceramic-coated headers went on too if it matters..) timing still ok at 20 btdc, idle mixture is good...your help is much appreciated!
Are you running a AFR Gauge, if not I Highly suggest you install one, Air fuel Ratio Reading Help you Tune like a Pro !! ok almost like a Pro, but no seriously look into one its one of the best investments you'll ever make when it come to fine tuning you Car !!
 
Proper air/fuel mixture will help your engine run cool and to its full potential. Most overheating issues related to air/fuel ratios are the result of a lean mixture, which causes the cylinders to run hotter, motors always lean out when headers are added after changing from stock manifolds. A AFR Gauge is a good way of watching your AFR in real time while driving the car. As a general rule of thumb, most stock engines use roughly 14.1:1 to 13.4:1 air/fuel ratio at idle and slightly richer at high rpm.
 
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Proper air/fuel mixture will help your engine run cool and to its full potential. Most overheating issues related to air/fuel ratios are the result of a lean mixture, which causes the cylinders to run hotter, motors always lean out when headers are added after changing from stock manifolds. A AFR Gauge is a good way of watching your AFR in real time while driving the car.
Thanks, back to the tuning board I guess..I had headers before as well, same size just changed them out for better ones. Engine sounds different too after getting the bigger exhaust, as in not as smooth...must definitely need more fuel
 
Thanks, back to the tuning board I guess..I had headers before as well, same size just changed them out for better ones. Engine sounds different too after getting the bigger exhaust, as in not as smooth...must definitely need more fuel

you changed your exhaust size to, so that will have an affect on your AFR to. Going from 2 1/2 inch to 3 inch exhaust is a big difference.
 
How restrictive was the old exhaust? How free flowing is the new exhaust system? Also, I like to use a bulb type thermometer sticking into the neck of the radiator but you have to test with the cap off before the coolant starts to expand very much or test the coolant temp as it overflows into a catch bottle.
 
How restrictive was the old exhaust? How free flowing is the new exhaust system? Also, I like to use a bulb type thermometer sticking into the neck of the radiator but you have to test with the cap off before the coolant starts to expand very much or test the coolant temp as it overflows into a catch bottle.
Cranky it was the same size(1-7/8)headers into 2-1/2" pipes and super turbo mufflers, now 3" into ultraflows. Sounds perfect...from outside the car. Much much louder inside with vibrations and droning, and I have sound deadener under the jute-backed carpet...I've had loud stuff but this time it seems to be too annoying from about 10 to 50mph...I must be older dammit!
 
Had same pro
Cranky it was the same size(1-7/8)headers into 2-1/2" pipes and super turbo mufflers, now 3" into ultraflows. Sounds perfect...from outside the car. Much much louder inside with vibrations and droning, and I have sound deadener under the jute-backed carpet...I've had loud stuff but this time it seems to be too annoying from about 10 to 50mph...I must be older dammit!
Had same problem with flow masters would make you want to park it, changed to Pypes Race. now can listen to radio.
 
Just food for thought, an IR gun and your temp gauge will be different.
1st you are shooting a metal surface and not the actual coolant.
2nd temp sending units are thermocouple or RTDs
3rd is that some metal reflect some wavelengths of IR which will skew the reading. Depending on the quality of the gun affects how it reads different surface emisivities... $12 - $20k+.
 
Just food for thought, an IR gun and your temp gauge will be different.
1st you are shooting a metal surface and not the actual coolant.
2nd temp sending units are thermocouple or RTDs
3rd is that some metal reflect some wavelengths of IR which will skew the reading. Depending on the quality of the gun affects how it reads different surface emisivities... $12 - $20k+.
Very true..the one I use for thermal Imaging big breakers and switchgear isn't the same as the $50 one I use in the garage that's for sure! Buuut..when my temperature gauge is in it's normal happy place, my IR gun will read 185 to 190... when I got the high reading, the temperature gauge was also a lot closer to the 'H' then I've seen it
 
Had same problem with flow masters would make you want to park it, changed to Pypes Race. now can listen to radio.
I have no such problems with Flowmaster 40 series. With a 180 thermostat I generally run 180-185.
Listening to the radio is another story.
 
Proper air/fuel mixture will help your engine run cool and to its full potential. Most overheating issues related to air/fuel ratios are the result of a lean mixture, which causes the cylinders to run hotter, motors always lean out when headers are added after changing from stock manifolds. A AFR Gauge is a good way of watching your AFR in real time while driving the car. As a general rule of thumb, most stock engines use roughly 14.1:1 to 13.4:1 air/fuel ratio at idle and slightly richer at high rpm.
Mine seems to lose power when I try to run it to those target numbers. I used to chase the mid 14s at idle and cruise but when I did, the WOT suffered. Of course, mine is not stock, so.....
 
Cranky it was the same size(1-7/8)headers into 2-1/2" pipes and super turbo mufflers, now 3" into ultraflows. Sounds perfect...from outside the car. Much much louder inside with vibrations and droning, and I have sound deadener under the jute-backed carpet...I've had loud stuff but this time it seems to be too annoying from about 10 to 50mph...I must be older dammit!
Just food for thought, an IR gun and your temp gauge will be different.
1st you are shooting a metal surface and not the actual coolant.
2nd temp sending units are thermocouple or RTDs
3rd is that some metal reflect some wavelengths of IR which will skew the reading. Depending on the quality of the gun affects how it reads different surface emisivities... $12 - $20k+.
I have a ECOM Ex-MP 4 IR gun (around 500 bucks) and it's decent but it varies a bit from the 'lab' bulb thermometer I use when I'm chasing a problem. It's close though. It's great for checking individual header tubes just off the head to see what cylinders are running cool/cold or hot but I'm not really looking for 15/20 degrees difference there....
 
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Mine seems to lose power when I try to run it to those target numbers. I used to chase the mid 14s at idle and cruise but when I did, the WOT suffered. Of course, mine is not stock, so.....

that is why I said those numbers are a for a stock motor, for modified motors you will need to play with the AFR till you get it right for your motor. That is where a AFR gauge really comes on handy and you are not guessing.
 
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