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Installing my 440?

I used to pick and move hundreds of tons at my job and know that when you start moving that load from
vertical to sideways on a bolt, bad things can happen! A straight pull on four grade 5 bolts is fine, but when you
tilt that engine to slide it in, my heart starts to palpatate! I know it's done all the time, but i'm a chicken.
And what are you doing to a bolt on a chain.
 
That plate with 5/16 grade 5 bolts could lift the whole car.
What if the intake is aluminum? I have an aluminum intake on my 400, so I went head to head. Just curious if anyone lifts with a plate on an aluminum intake?
 
What if the intake is aluminum? I have an aluminum intake on my 400, so I went head to head. Just curious if anyone lifts with a plate on an aluminum intake?
Yes, absolutely. Used a homemade lift plate on a 454 with an aluminum intake,..... with a 400 Turbo attached.
 
What if the intake is aluminum? I have an aluminum intake on my 400, so I went head to head. Just curious if anyone lifts with a plate on an aluminum intake?
Look at my post 7 and 18.
 
I'm putting grade eight bolts in the intake, and hope to lift the assembly by snaking a chain under it.

What do you guys think? I think this engine weighs a thousand pounds?
Every time this comes up there are the plate guys, chain guys, and the leveler guys. To each there own.
^^^^^^^This


On cast iron heads I just use the 3/8" holes beyond the intake corners. I have absolutely no concern for engine/trans assembly pulls. Although lifting via the intake by whatever means works, I'm just not comfortable with it.
I do know the 3/8" threaded holes for the intake bolts on the heads have minimal thread engagement at best. I don't care to stress them needlessly.
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I've always trusted the threads in the heads more than any in an intake....
 
Everyone questioning "this and that" but doesn't care to look at that single bolt from China that's holding the hook on their hoist boom!! A grade 5 bolt x 5/16" diameter, generally, has a tension strength of 6400lbs and a single shear strength of 5750lbs. A bolt in double shear, such as the hook mount will hold 11,500lbs = 5+ tons...
 
I always use a pick plate on the carb pad, either a standard one from summit or the pivot plate from Macs tie downs for angling the engine in without taking the radiator support out. I wouldn't chain under the intake unless it is just being moved across the garage. The Macs makes things a lot easier to control and more stable.
 
We used to lift entire Huey helicopters with a shackle and single pin through a hole on the jesus nut. If I had a carb plate, I would have no qualms about using it. Old school chain with 2 bolts is ok, but not as friendly as the plate ( read, chain slipping when tilting).
Like many things ...there is more than one way to skin a cat.
 
I'm putting grade eight bolts in the intake, and hope to lift the assembly by snaking a chain under it.

What do you guys think? I think this engine weighs a thousand pounds?
And if your engine is stock, it likely weighs just under 700 pounds, not 1,000.
 
Many thanks gentlemen for your input.
 
Look at my post 7 and 18.
Right on, I'm with you on all the specs. My question came from the fear of pulling the threads out of a cast aluminum intake. But, looking at the record of lifts/installs you have (including an elephant and trans) with plates, I have to figure as long as the thread engagement isn't sloppy and is full depth it should be go to go. Appreciate the education :thumbsup:
 
Right on, I'm with you on all the specs. My question came from the fear of pulling the threads out of a cast aluminum intake. But, looking at the record of lifts/installs you have (including an elephant and trans) with plates, I have to figure as long as the thread engagement isn't sloppy and is full depth it should be go to go. Appreciate the education :thumbsup:
I have used bolts into an aluminum intake to hold the plate.... but I prefer studs in the intake, and nuts. Either works.
 
I've always used chains bolted to the ends of the heads until one mishap. Had a 440 with all the accessories hanging when one of the bolts broke and the whole thing came down. Wife came running out of the house to see what happened because it shook the ground. My analysis is that the thickness of the chain allows the bolt to bend, then break, so it's not actually shear that happens. After that I use D-rings with mounting plates to make sure the bolts are in shear. Straight tension would be better, but you need to make sure there's no bending moment. Carb plates put the bolts under tension, so they're strong.
 
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