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Instructions for crush sleeve elimination kit

There are two different thread sizes on 489 pinions, 3/4" and 7/8". You might want to consider that before choosing a torque.

IMO, 125 ft. lbs. is fine for either with the eliminator kit and Loctite is your friend if the nut isn't self-locking.
 
That's wrong. Preload is what it is on the bearings for correct load. It has nothing to do with the nut coming loose.
The shims make the bearing preload, the nut keeps it there. I can get the same turn load with a nut with 10 ft pounds vs 250 ft p. Back at ya.
 
The shims make the bearing preload, the nut keeps it there. I can get the same turn load with a nut with 10 ft pounds vs 250 ft p. Back at ya.
Go back and read what you posted. Quote-[[Preload is nothing more than stretching the pinion so nut doesn’t come loose]]-Quote It was nothing to do with shimming. You stated the preload was so the nut does not come loose which is BS.
 
i guess what I’ve been puzzling over with the solid spacer is when I increase the pinion depth shim from say .032 to .036, do I need to make any change to the amount of preload shims? I’ve about resolved in my mind that I don’t as long as I intend to keep the preload constant. Correct?

In my case, with new bearings I need to increase the preload from 12 in-lbs to somewhere around 20 - 22 in-lbs (can’t remember FSM spec off-hand) so I will need to increase the current .030“ preload shims to .032 or .034 (as necessary by tria & error) to achieve the higher preload. Sound right?
 
i guess what I’ve been puzzling over with the solid spacer is when I increase the pinion depth shim from say .032 to .036, do I need to make any change to the amount of preload shims? I’ve about resolved in my mind that I don’t as long as I intend to keep the preload constant. Correct?

In my case, with new bearings I need to increase the preload from 12 in-lbs to somewhere around 20 - 22 in-lbs (can’t remember FSM spec off-hand) so I will need to increase the current .030“ preload shims to .032 or .034 (as necessary by tria & error) to achieve the higher preload. Sound right?
Any pinion depth change requires checking preload and most likely resetting the preload shims.
 
The preload is deterimed by the shims between the bearings. You can adjust the pinion depth by changing the shim between the bearing and the pinion head, and it will not affect preload.
 
The preload is deterimed by the shims between the bearings. You can adjust the pinion depth by changing the shim between the bearing and the pinion head, and it will not affect preload.
Yes pinion preload is controlled by the shims. However when changing the pinion depth it also changes the preload. So any depth change requires checking and reshimming the preload as needed. Do some reading.
 
The preload is deterimed by the shims between the bearings. You can adjust the pinion depth by changing the shim between the bearing and the pinion head, and it will not affect preload.
Here read.
Pinion Depth
Definition
: Position of pinion-gear relative to the ring-gear centreline, expressed as either a mounting distance (measured from behind the pinion head to the centreline of the ring-gear) or a checking distance (measured from the face of the pinion head to the centreline of the ring-gear).
Think of it as: How close the head of the pinion is to the centreline of the ring-gear. Proper pinion depth makes sure the pinion teeth mesh with the middle of the teeth on the ring-gear – between the top and the root. Increasing pinion depth moves the pinion closer to the centreline of the ring-gear, moving the pinion “deeper” into ring-gear teeth and reducing the checking distance.
How Measured: The final determination of correct pinion depth can only be obtained by reading and interpreting the gear tooth contact pattern using gear-marking compound. There exist specialized tools for measuring pinion depth, but they are expensive, aren’t necessary, and are only used to calculate a starting point – final proof always lies in the contact pattern.
Adjusted Via: Inner pinion shims placed between the housing and the inner pinion-bearing cup. Adding shims moves pinion closer to ring-gear centreline, moving the pattern from the top to the root. Removing shims moves pinion further away from ring-gear centreline, moving the pattern from the root to the top.
Note: When adjusting pinion depth, begin with a starting shim stack and make large adjustments at first (10-20 thou) until the correct setting is bracketed; then make progressively smaller adjustments until the final setting is achieved. Adding or subtracting a single shim of one thou can, and does, make a difference. Increasing pinion depth also decreases backlash and moves drive pattern slightly towards toe, and coast pattern slightly towards the heel. Decreasing pinion depth also increases backlash and moves the drive pattern slightly towards the heel, and the coast pattern slightly towards the toe. Increasing pinion depth will also increase pinion-bearing preload unless the outer pinion shims are adjusted.


Pinion-bearing Preload
Definition
: Bearing preload is a measure of the rolling resistance in a bearing or “bearing stiffness”. As a cone is pressed against its cup, the point or line of contact between the roller and cup becomes larger, friction increases and preload is said to be higher. Correct bearing preload is a trade-off between bearing stiffness and the wear resulting from the preloading.
Think of it as: How tightly the pinion-bearing cones are pressed into their cups and consequently how stiff they are to rotate.
How Measured: An inch-pound torque wrench is used on the pinion nut to measure the torque required to rotate the installed pinion.
Adjusted Via: Outer pinion shims placed between the face of the outer pinion-bearing cone and the shoulder on the pinion shaft. Adding shims causes the pinion-bearings to be spaced away from their cups, reducing pre-load and vice-versa. Add shims to reduce pre-load and remove shims to increase preload.
Note: Pinion preload is normally specified without the carrier or axle shafts installed, with the yoke installed and pinion nut torqued to spec but with no pinion oil seal installed. An installed carrier can add 2-4 in-lbs and a new oil seal adds approx. 3 in-lbs. Too little preload diminishes load-bearing capacity as the load-bearing surfaces between rollers and cup are decreased. Too much preload increases friction, resulting in excessive noise, heat, and rapid wear.
Carrier-bearing Preload
Definition
: See pinion-bearing preload
Think of it as: How tightly the carrier-bearing cones are pressed into their cups and consequently how stiff they are to rotate. Also controls how tightly the carrier is held in the housing.
How Measured: Not possible to measure directly.
Adjusted Via: Adding or subtracting an equal amount of carrier-bearing shims to both sides of the carrier. Ideally, total carrier shim stack (sum of both sides) should be approx. 0.015” larger than the available space, and a case spreader should be used. However, a case spreader is not critical, and a good approximation of carrier-bearing preload can be made by ensuring the carrier can only be installed with a few good blows from a dead-blow hammer.
Note: If carrier preload is too little, carrier will move away from pinion under load (squirm or deflect), increasing backlash. This could lead to insufficient gear tooth contact, resulting in chipping/breaking of gear teeth.
 
The original post was about an 8 3/4 rear end. The pinion depth is adjusted by the shim between the pinion head and the bearing, not between the cup and the housing.
 
The original post was about an 8 3/4 rear end. The pinion depth is adjusted by the shim between the pinion head and the bearing, not between the cup and the housing.
The fact is still the same. Move the head of the pinion in or out and the the preload either increases or decreases. It does not matter if the pinion depth shim is under the bearing or under the cup.
 
Go back and read what you posted. Quote-[[Preload is nothing more than stretching the pinion so nut doesn’t come loose]]-Quote It was nothing to do with shimming. You stated the preload was so the nut does not come loose which is BS.
Go back and read again yourself, the PRELOAD on the pinion NOT bearings. I can put 250 pounds on the nut but if the shims are off it’ll flop around in the case. Two separate things unless you have a crush sleeve then the nut is twofold, sets preload on bearings and pinion. Sorry you can’t comprehend that.
 
Go back and read again yourself, the PRELOAD on the pinion NOT bearings. I can put 250 pounds on the nut but if the shims are off it’ll flop around in the case. Two separate things unless you have a crush sleeve then the nut is twofold, sets preload on bearings and pinion. Sorry you can’t comprehend that.
You go back and try to comprehend what you said. You clearly stated preload is so the nut does not come loose.
 
The fact is still the same. Move the head of the pinion in or out and the the preload either increases or decreases. It does not matter if the pinion depth shim is under the bearing or under the cup.
“ Move the head of the pinion in or out and the the preload either increases or decreases”
Preload is set after the depth is right, either by shims on the pinion or the crush sleeve, between the two bearings. Then the nut will stretch the pinion to keep the nut tight. Have you ever used a stretch gauge on rod bearings instead of a torque?
 
You go back and try to comprehend what you said. You clearly stated preload is so the nut does not come loose.
Exactly, read the next post. What the hell do you think holds ANY nut tight?
 
A shim between the pinion head and the rear bearing, will NOT change the preload. A shim between the cup and the housing will.
 
Exactly, read the next post. What the hell do you think holds ANY nut tight?
While most pinion nuts are locking, correct nut torque is critical. To me you have the correct preload and tighten the nut to the specified torque. Preload does not determine the nut torque with shims. The shims are bottomed on the stem and the bearing with the yoke is compressing against the stem. So you could have to little preload with the correct nut torque. That's my point on the preload not controlling the nut coming loose. I believe we both have the correct thought just looking at it differently.
 
How about this. Put a piece of threaded rod through the bearings instead of the pinion, and put a shim pack between the bearings so that when you tighten the nuts on the threaded rod, you have some preload on the bearings. Then slack off one nut one inch, and tighten the other nut. That threaded rod has moved one inch inside the bearings. Has the preload changed?
 
How about this. Put a piece of threaded rod through the bearings instead of the pinion, and put a shim pack between the bearings so that when you tighten the nuts on the threaded rod, you have some preload on the bearings. Then slack off one nut one inch, and tighten the other nut. That threaded rod has moved one inch inside the bearings. Has the preload changed?
Keep trying you might convince someone.
 
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