Instructions for crush sleeve elimination kit

[Wietse]

That's wrong. Preload is what it is on the bearings for correct load. It has nothing to do with the nut coming loose.

Correct, pre-load is there to apply the right pressure on the bearings, this is to still have "tension" on the bearings once the assembly heats up during operations and ensure that the thermal growth does not cause the bearings to get clearance.
Once there is no positive contact they will be gone very fast.

 

[Ceedawg]

You go back and try to comprehend what you said. You clearly stated preload is so the nut does not come loose.

What’s your problem you can’t read. Shins set the preload on bearings, the nut streatches the pinion ABOVE THE YOKE. Neither has any thing to do with pattern. I when to school on this **** and have done hundreds of setups so take a hike!

 

[Ceedawg]

While most pinion nuts are locking, correct nut torque is critical. To me you have the correct preload and tighten the nut to the specified torque. Preload does not determine the nut torque with shims. The shims are bottomed on the stem and the bearing with the yoke is compressing against the stem. So you could have to little preload with the correct nut torque. That's my point on the preload not controlling the nut coming loose. I believe we both have the correct thought just looking at it differently.

A tight nut or a half tight nut will still give same preload on bearings, the shims lock the two bearings in place and don’t change

 

[pnora]

What’s your problem you can’t read. Shins set the preload on bearings, the nut streatches the pinion ABOVE THE YOKE. Neither has any thing to do with pattern. I when to school on this **** and have done hundreds of setups so take a hike!

gfys

 

[Wietse]

What’s your problem you can’t read. Shins set the preload on bearings, the nut streatches the pinion ABOVE THE YOKE. Neither has any thing to do with pattern. I when to school on this **** and have done hundreds of setups so take a hike!

Tightening the yoke nut (with the original crush sleeve) will "pull" the pinion shaft forward.
Now with a crush sleeve eliminator kit you pre-set the spacing between the 2 bearings, but tightening the nut will still apply a forward load on the pinion shaft, which still can affect the pattern by how tight you go on it.
The distance between the 2 bearings and races requires to be set, which depends on the housing tolerances which probably all are different as machining tolerances were not as they are now days.
Once tightening the nut, the drive shaft yoke is pushed against the outboard bearing, which, once bottomed out, will start to pull pinion shaft and the inboard bearing against its race and locking the assembly in place.
The crush sleeve original intention is to have some grieve when installing by its crushing capability while maintaining pre-load.
The eliminator kit is there to set it "perfect" but requires to be measured properly to get it right and is reusable.
When doing this i would get another 1-2 spare crush sleeves and after the first attempt with no good pattern you will be able to redo it with knowing how much it needs and in what direction.

That nut will not stretch the pinion shaft thread section, it is just to lock the 2 bearings (which are facing each other) in place, not tightened properly will result in your pinion shaft start floating and the bearings will fail in the end.

 

[AR67GTX]

I sort of mangled this earlier so edited and corrected it:

That’s pretty much what I’m thinking. I will need to play with the pinion preload shims to get the desired preload when the nut is tightened sufficiently to remove all the play in the train of parts (pinion head on pinion depth shim, on tapered rear bearing, on spacer, on spacer preload shims, on outer tapered bearing, and on yoke. It probably won’t take more than 5 or 10 ft lbs of torque to pull everything together to check preload on the bearings and adjust preload shim thickness to get preload in spec. All the nut torque above that just tensions the pinion shaft and locks down the nut so it can’t back off (175 ft-lb Is my target).

Got to go see my 97 year old Dad first so it will be about 10 days before I get to work on it.

Anyone got any issues with SKF bearings? I got one from Rock Auto only to find the dreaded made in China labeling on it. I used them on rebuilding a Toploader a few years ago and didn’t remember that.

 

[Wietse]

The crush sleeve will start to deform at or near the right torque on the nut, the in/lb on the pinion rotation will be very close i guess once the nut is near tight.
The crush sleeve eliminator is a nice upgrade, but it makes installation more complicated compared to the original design.
And if you are not racing etc. i do not see any point of changing over from a crush sleeve.

 

[AR67GTX]

I already have the crush sleeve elimination kit installed.

 

[AR67GTX]

Haven’t had much time to work on this due to travel but I did get a chance to set up the pinion preload with set-up bearings yesterday. With the spacer in a 489, it only takes snugging the pinion nut up a little to take up any slack between the pinion head, the inner bearing, the spacer & shims, the outer bearing and the yoke and they are locked tight. You can torque the crap out of it after that but once those are all in contact it doesn’t change the preload any. It just tensions the shaft inside all that stuff and the only way that can affect preload is if the shaft tension actually compresses/collapses the length of the spacer, which I doubt. And it doesn’t make any difference how much pinion depth shim you put under the pinion head - it won’t affect preload.

I’ll have to go through all this again when I put the new bearings in for final assembly and with the selection of preload shims I have it’s difficult to get the preload just right. For instance .029” shims gave me about 12 in-lbs, good for used bearings. But I don’t have any shims under .010” and had to sand one down to get to .29“ as .030” was too light on preload. I may need to try to find some shims under .010”. Or another thought is using pinion depth shims on the other end of the spacer or a combination on both ends. The spacer shouldn’t care which end the shims are on as long as it doesn’t interfere with the bearing Which it won’t. But that may not help either if I don’t have any of the larger diameter shims in under .010” thickness. Guess I need to get on Mcmaster- Carr and do some looking.