Instructions for crush sleeve elimination kit

[AR67GTX]

I purchased a solid Spacer kit from Dr Diff for my 489 diff and it didn’t come with any instructions so I’m not sure how the shop who put it together set it up. It had a preload of 12 in-lbs with a new rear pinion bearing and used outer bearing and I would say the pinion nut was on at a pretty good torque figure - maybe 175 or more ft-lbs by guess. Without repeating the story, now I’m redoing the work due to gear noise on my first drive.

Question is - how do I determine how to set up the solid spacer and what final nut torque do I need? Yesterday evening I found some instructions for a Raytech solid spacer for 489s. I’m going to put new bearings in it so I’ll adjust for that and use a new nut on final assembly. Does 125 ft-lbs torque on the pinion nut with a new nut and a couple drops of orange loctite sound OK? I’m used to seeing a higher pinion nut torque figure.

 

[Darter6]

My 1966 service manual says 240 foot pounds minimum on the yoke nut.
Now this is for the pre-489 case that did not use a crush sleeve.
I would think using a crush sleeve eliminator that specs for the pre-489 cases should be used.
Pinion depth will be done using the shims in the kit.
Many home setup guys use a extra set of pinion bearings that are honed and can slide on and off easy while measuring pinion depth.

 

[AR67GTX]

Right - that’s why I question the 125 ft-lb figure Raytech says. But they seem to be one of the major suppliers of these kits. I do plan on honing out an inner bearing and maybe an outer for trial setups.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

It looks to me that the 125 ft-lb torque is just for getting the set up right. It should be a lot tighter than that for final assembly, as noted above.

 

[AR67GTX]

That‘s sort of what prompted my question. I would think Ratech would mention that as a final step though. I was hoping someone might have instructions with a kit from another supplier that might clarify things.

 

[pnora]

Ask Dr.D

 

[pnora]

Call Randys and ask for instructions on their kit. SK CSC8.75

 

[RemCharger]

Factory on a 489 is 170 MINIMUM. Note there is no max value.
Like Darter6 said, I'd go with 240-250.
Can't wreck it being too tight, but things go downhill too loose.

 

[steve340]

I use an old nut that I tapped out to remove the "thread lock" part at the top of the nut.
Save the new nut for final assembly.
You need to use the 175 ft/lb minimum torque specified by Chrysler when setting the pinion preload so the preload is the same at final assembly. It will tighten up if you set and then increase the nut torque.
You can use 125 to get the preload close but use 175 for final setting.

 

[Fran Blacker]

The only bearing I'd is the rear pinion bearing, why any other? Setting pinion preload is the same process as a 742 or Dana 60.

 

[AR67GTX]

I use an old nut that I tapped out to remove the "thread lock" part at the top of the nut.
Save the new nut for final assembly.
You need to use the 175 ft/lb minimum torque specified by Chrysler when setting the pinion preload so the preload is the same at final assembly. It will tighten up if you set and then increase the nut torque.
You can use 125 to get the preload close but use 175 for final setting.

Sounds reasonable to me - except I don’t have a tap for the old nut. But I do have a 5-1/2’ yoke saddle bar, 30” break over bar and several ft of pipe for it - so getting torque is not an issue - just how much with a solid spacer. Seems like another 50 ft-lb on final assembly would change the preload considerably but maybe that impression is wrong.

 

[Cranky]

When were the gears noisy? On accel, decel or at cruise? What's the gear pattern look like now? I've used the Raytech spacers before but never have used Dr. Diffs before but can't imagine it would be different and if so, probably not much different. When using the spacer you set up just like you would a 41 or a 42....with shims to get your preload. Just make sure the ID's of the shims fit well and if you are using used ones, make sure they are flat. The first time I used one of the Ratechs was when they first came out with them, it was too long and had to machine it so I contacted them and told them so. The next ones were ok. Just in case, I would do a trial setup without using any shims and snug it up and see if the bearings get tight. If they do, it should be good to go using the correct amount of shims. Do you have an impact? To me, having one makes the job go faster.

 

[steve340]

The pinion is trying to walk in and out under acceleration and deceleration. The torque on that pinion nut is specked out to eliminate this and retain pinion bearing preload.
The solid spacer is primarily designed to eliminate the chance of pinion walk in a high power set up.
There is no question in my mind the torque setting that Chrysler who designed and made the diff say 175 minimum is correct.

 

[pnora]

Sounds reasonable to me - except I don’t have a tap for the old nut. But I do have a 5-1/2’ yoke saddle bar, 30” break over bar and several ft of pipe for it - so getting torque is not an issue - just how much with a solid spacer. Seems like another 50 ft-lb on final assembly would change the preload considerably but maybe that impression is wrong.

With the solid spacer once tight say at 125 psi. it will not change at a higher psi. because there is nothing to give. Collapsible spacer it is a different story.

 

[AR67GTX]

When were the gears noisy? On accel, decel or at cruise? What's the gear pattern look like now? I've used the Raytech spacers before but never have used Dr. Diffs before but can't imagine it would be different and if so, probably not much different. When using the spacer you set up just like you would a 41 or a 42....with shims to get your preload. Just make sure the ID's of the shims fit well and if you are using used ones, make sure they are flat. The first time I used one of the Ratechs was when they first came out with them, it was too long and had to machine it so I contacted them and told them so. The next ones were ok. Just in case, I would do a trial setup without using any shims and snug it up and see if the bearings get tight. If they do, it should be good to go using the correct amount of shims. Do you have an impact? To me, having one makes the job go faster.

Ah, that’s another long, prior thread in this section that probably doesn’t need to be repeated again. Few liked the pattern and it howled on steady speed and a little on coast. Shop said it looked good to them but it was the gears howling. They said they were willing to do something but didn‘t offer any suggestion. I didn’t know what to tell them without trying some trial setups and I supplied the gears. In the end I decided I was tired of screwing with shops and to be a master of my own fate. Yes, I have impacts - everything I need except a pinion depth gage. But everyone I know who has one of them or I hear on here has one, says they use it, put it back in the box and then take there best guess on a starting point. Mine was already set up so I have a starting point.

thanks

 

[khryslerkid]

Ask Dr.D

Exactly.

Cass told me that the torque the manufacturer recommended is ridiculous. The size of the pinion thread dia and pinion nut doesn't dictate that kind of torque. Look up that size fastener and see what the torque specs are.

I believe I went 150 ft lbs on my 742 pinion.

Using the crush sleeve eliminator, the preload is set up the same as a 742. Add or subtract shims to get the proper preload resistance checking with a inch lb. guaged torque wrench.

One more thing, on pinion and carrier bearings it's a rolling torque. You need to rotate the bearings as you torque them. Progress in ten/twenty ft lbs at a time until you reach the desired torque. Not doing this can damage the race and bearing.

 

[Cranky]

Exactly.

Cass told me that the torque the manufacturer recommended is ridiculous. The size of the pinion thread dia and pinion nut doesn't dictate that kind of torque. Look up that size fastener and see what the torque specs are.

I believe I went 150 ft lbs on my 742 pinion.

Using the crush sleeve eliminator, the preload is set up the same as a 742. Add or subtract shims to get the proper preload resistance checking with a inch lb. guaged torque wrench.

One more thing, on pinion and carrier bearings it's a rolling torque. You need to rotate the bearings as you torque them. Progress in ten/twenty ft lbs at a time until you reach the desired torque. Not doing this can damage the race and bearing.

And to get the right inch pounds reading for the preload you got to do it without the seal. Once I get it I'll go ahead and mark the nut in relation to the shaft then put the seal in and bring the nut back to the marks

 

[AR67GTX]

And to get the right inch pounds reading for the preload you got to do it without the seal. Once I get it I'll go ahead and mark the nut in relation to the shaft then put the seal in and bring the nut back to the marks

Sounds like a good idea. I didn’t think about the seal. Torquing to final torque during the last trial set and verifying pinion torque with the nut fully tightened and marking the pinion and nut for final assembly sounds like a good idea too.

thanks all for the tips

 

[Ceedawg]

Preload is nothing more than stretching the pinion so nut doesn’t come loose, like torquing every other bolt made, you're creating tension. Torque it till you get the right inch pounds of turn, it works from the big bearing out so it doesn’t affect pattern

 

[pnora]

Preload is nothing more than stretching the pinion so nut doesn’t come loose, like torquing every other bolt made, you're creating tension. Torque it till you get the right inch pounds of turn, it works from the big bearing out so it doesn’t affect pattern

That's wrong. Preload is what it is on the bearings for correct load. It has nothing to do with the nut coming loose.