Just saved this 68 Road Runner 4 speed from the crusher. Any way to tell by the sales order number when it was made (month)

[turbine68rt]

My '68 is a St.Louis car, SPD was January 18. "Jan 4 1968" stamped on the back of the door panels. #203343 on the VIN. As far as an engine number if you can narrow down your build date any block cast within a few weeks or so would be "more correct". Though some got blocks cast months before the car was built...maybe not typical but it did happen for various reasons.

In the case with mine, the block was cast 13 months before assembly. Yes, it's the numbers matching engine.

 

[beanhead]

In the case with mine, the block was cast 13 months before assembly. Yes, it's the numbers matching engine.

There you have it. My unc's all-original '68 GTX, that he bought brand new and still owns, was a Dec 67 build and has a block cast in Feb 67. Chrysler used what was there and didn't give twoshitz about numbers...but I do believe those are exceptions rather than the rule.

 

[RemCharger]

No title, No data build plate, no sales broadcast sheet. Just the vin on the dash. Car is rough and stripped of everything. It's a shell. Original color of car is that dark red (Moulin rouge?) The VIN says it is a 383 car. Pedals still in car. Any way to tell by the sales code numbers on the driver's trunk rail of when it was made. Reason is trying to figure out if it was an early made car in the year which would have the Inland shifter and later that year switched over to a Hurst shifter. Also, what would be the month date code I would need to look for in searching for a 383 motor and 4 speed to make it numbers matching? Also, the rear 8 3/4 and springs. Going to restore it back to stone stock.

Thanks,

Wizard

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I think the simple answer to your question is, does it have the dash reverse indicator light?

 

[440 PHIXX]

Agree on this. Nobody will buy a restored 383 roadrunner without at least a fender tag in the mopar world. A 6.4 hemi, 5-speed swap with a/c will bring back about double your investment at sale time. Figure about 15 grand to do it If you ever have you sell it you will have 10 times the buyers, and you will love driving it anywhere. It also makes a car way more wife friendly if you have, or plan to have that issue. Finding a 383, trans, rebuilding it, and all the original parts for a resto will be at least half that.

I agree... restomods bring big money. I saw a ‘69 Satellite with a Gen 3 and 6 speed go for $90k on BAT. But who says it has to restored “correct”. I turned down a free 383 recently as I already have a couple. You could put a 383 and a TF in that for cheap, and do it with an Autozone tool kit. Doing a Gen 3 and all the electronics isn’t cheap or easy.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I think the simple answer to your question is, does it have the dash reverse indicator light?

Early ‘68 cars had the Inland shifter with the reverse pull and didn’t have a dash mounted light. That came with the Hurst shifter.

 

[tonysrt]

My 68 Road Runner Hard top was ordered early Jan. and came through with an Inland shifter.

 

[440 PHIXX]

My 68 Road Runner Hard top was ordered early Jan. and came through with an Inland shifter.

My understanding is the Hurst shifter didn’t show up til late in the ‘68 model year. I’ve only seen a few.

 

[440 PHIXX]

In the case with mine, the block was cast 13 months before assembly. Yes, it's the numbers matching engine.

Funny thing... that started in the Corvette NCRS Bloomington bullshit. Guys were restamping the block so the car had “matching numbers”. All Corvettes and all GM cars up until the 1972 model year had no engine call out in the VIN or the cowl tag. So the engine sequence number had to match the VIN to authenticate originality. Then people noticed the casting dates were not right in some of these restamped blocks. That’s when the casting dates became important. And when people would grind them down, and put the “correct” date on.

 

[Wizard]

As long as he doesn’t mind sinking $100k into it.

No $100k here? I do all my own work. Restoring them since 1986.

 

[Wizard]

My '68 is a St.Louis car, SPD was January 18. "Jan 4 1968" stamped on the back of the door panels. #203343 on the VIN. As far as an engine number if you can narrow down your build date any block cast within a few weeks or so would be "more correct". Though some got blocks cast months before the car was built...maybe not typical but it did happen for various reasons.

Thank You.

 

[Wizard]

My understanding is the Hurst shifter didn’t show up til late in the ‘68 model year. I’ve only seen a few.

Correct

 

[Wizard]

Early ‘68 cars had the Inland shifter with the reverse pull and didn’t have a dash mounted light. That came with the Hurst shifter.

Thank you. Mine does not have a reverse mounted light.

 

[Basket case]

nice save. Find yourself a four door Satellite parts car, that will save you a lot.But you need to find out about titling it before you spend anything.

 

[Wizard]

What are the first 3 digits in the sequence number of the VIN. I have 3 68’s here and can give you an approximation of the date.

229

 

[Wizard]

nice save. Find yourself a four door Satellite parts car, that will save you a lot.But you need to find out about titling it before you spend anything.

Yes. Thank You. I have a lot of parts already for this car as I buy and sell parts. I can get a registration and then title if wanted. Thanks.

 

[WileERobby]

As long as he doesn’t mind sinking $100k into it.

If you're doing most of the work yourself, not even half that. And, you'll have WAY more resale value than a plain rr with nothing else.

 

[Basket case]

I have a pair of post car 1/4 windows and frames

 

[barbee6043]

^^^^I bet the body shop bill will be 10K unless the OP can do it all himself. Lets get real.

 

[440 PHIXX]

If you're doing most of the work yourself, not even half that. And, you'll have WAY more resale value than a plain rr with nothing else.

I agree. I was pointing out it would be easier and much cheaper to put a 383 back in it. I got this 23 spline 4 speed for $50 a couple years ago. 383 parts are much cheaper than 440 or Hemi parts. The VIN says it was out of a ‘69 RR.

I’m not sure why Mopar guys seem to always worry about worth.

 

[WileERobby]

I agree. I was pointing out it would be easier and much cheaper to put a 383 back in it. I got this 23 spline 4 speed for $50 a couple years ago. 383 parts are much cheaper than 440 or Hemi parts. The VIN says it was out of a ‘69 RR.View attachment 1322023View attachment 1322022I’m not sure why Mopar guys seem to always worry about worth.

Cheaper ? Oh, absolutely, not even close. I agree wholeheartedly. But, in the long run ( good Eagles song ), for pleasure drivability if keeping, or resale purposes, I'd do the resto-mod route. Funny, I'm far from a "resto-mod" guy ! But, if I got a shell of a plain 383, that's where i'd go. That's me. I did that to my 70 plain-jane 383 car, transformed it into a retro 70's 6-bbl car... like I had... in the 70's !!