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K-frame position

Bill M

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I tore down and rebuilt a 68 Charger recently.

I found that the drivers side front tire was rubbing the fender (on the front) slightly on a suspension travel.

Since the fender was the only part of the car not removed during the rebuild the culprit must be that the lower control arm is slightly forward. Was thinking this could only be from a K-frame or possibly the position of the shaft in the lower control arm not fully seated in the LCA.

Would be easy to see if the shaft is slightly out from seating fully in the LCA. Is the K-frame mounting holes Oval? Don't remember. I did reuse the factory bolts with the beveled seat.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this.
 
When you align the car the K member can be slightly shifted. The only way you can really address this is on a frame machine.
i was hoping to loosen the k frame bolts and push/pull it back into alignment if that was the issue.
Was'nt planing on removing anything just loosening the bolts like i said.

dont got a frame machine (or the patience)
 
Wrong.
The mounting bolts that secure the K member are tapered like a funnel so they positively locate the K member. The K member has thick pads that would require extensive grinding to change the placement of the K member. If there are no obvious large dents or bends, the K member is probably okay and the problem lies with the lower control arm or the strut rod bushings.
The only exception to this is if the hole in the K member that locates the lower control arm mounting pin. If there is rust or damage there, the alignment will usually be seen in the form of excessive positive camber. I have repaired several of these and have modified several others for improved cornering. I add gussets around the steering box mounts and around the lower control arm mount. See below:
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2B.JPG
3B.JPG


With an 1/8" thick washer welded to the K member, this will never get ripped out!
 
Wrong? you say in your answer if theirs problems. The k shifts and if its bent the frame shop can fix it. Taped bolts are only good if the holes are true and if not a bump will help. Ive done it.
 
You must have some magic parts. The bolts and K member are self centering in every one that I have seen. There is no room to adjust anything.
I changed the K member in my Charger years ago and the car drove exactly the same without having it aligned. My front tires are $250 each and believe me...if there was any irregular wear, I'd get an alignment right away.
 
The top control arm moves the tire ahead or back or in and out. Ur caster is probably way out. Turn the front bolt so the arm moves all the way out. Turn the rear bolt so it pull the arm all the way in. Adjust tie rods till wheels look straight. Take it to a good alignment shop. Look for an older guy that knows how to do our cars. Have the ride height set first. Run it around the block b4 the alignment. Kim
 
My 64 polara does not have located bolts where the K-frame bolts on the frame rails. Several years back my genius older son put on my new Schumaker motor mnts and new brkts/bolts and I told him not to blast the k-bolts down yet but he can't seem to hear the old man. After he gave up on getting it to drop in with big pry bars etc. he called me and said something was F@#ked up and I am stupid so I drove back to his shop and took the impact and blasted the k-bolts loose then crawled my decrepid old disabled *** to the rear of the trans extension housing and easily moved the whole shebang left and right a good amount and it dropped right in. then I centered it in the middle of the total tolerance and blasted it back down tight. Oh yeah, after all the cussin' name callin he says, 'Well I'll be damned" and he's still like that today. Every time I tell him I am going to do something to one of the mopars it all starts over again, That's stupid, all you gotta do is bla bla bla. Oh yeah, I wonder what year they began positively locating the K-member, the newest mopar I ever had was a 68 RR and I replaced 2 engines in that car but I don't recall.
 
The top control arm moves the tire ahead or back or in and out. Ur caster is probably way out. Turn the front bolt so the arm moves all the way out. Turn the rear bolt so it pull the arm all the way in. Adjust tie rods till wheels look straight. Take it to a good alignment shop. Look for an older guy that knows how to do our cars. Have the ride height set first. Run it around the block b4 the alignment. Kim


Very good point about the upper control arm orientation.
 
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