Leaking compression fitting driving me nuts!

[Moparfiend]

Hi OK well I put a new PS Pump in and a new line. Now I have a leak at the top of the steering box hi presure line in I believe (see pic). I removed and inspected and it looked fine. I used some teflon tape and rethreaded and tightened it down. Still leaks! Any suggestions? These don’t use O-Rings right?

 

[69L48Z27]

Isn’t that a flare fitting? Shouldn’t be any o-ring if it is.

 

[dadsbee]

Fitting to box is a straight thread and uses a crush washer AFAIK... never teflon tape.

 

[Ski 61701]

If the metal part of the line that goes into the gear box has a straight shoulder with a flare on top just before the nut, 9x out of 10 there is an o ring. If its just a flare fitting the fare might not be centered to the line itself(poor machining). Take the line off and post a pic of the tube end

 

[tonysrt]

Is that tube loose when the nut is tightened down, it must be tight. There might have been a gasket at the bottom of the fitting that screws into the steering body. The parts book shows one.

 

[Moparfiend]

Its a fare fitting. Its tight and I put a small piece of tefflon tape on the threads. I will re-seat it for a third time without tape but its leaking like it did from the first and second time assembling it. First time no tape.

 

[Moparfiend]

Is that tube loose when the nut is tightened down, it must be tight. There might have been a gasket at the bottom of the fitting that screws into the steering body. The parts book shows one.

no its tight.

 

[69L48Z27]

Sounds like the flare, on one side or the other, is buggered (technical term) up or split.

Snug the nut almost tight, to the point where you can still move the tube, and rotate the tube back and forth. Then tighten it down. If the flare on the tube isn’t quite right that may help it seat.

 

[Moparfiend]

Sounds like the flare, on one side or the other, is buggered (technical term) up or split.

Snug the nut almost tight, to the point where you can still move the tube, and rotate the tube back and forth. Then tighten it down. If the flare on the tube isn’t quite right that may help it seat.

Very good advide thank you. Its a difficult fit due to the extreme bend of the line and its rigidity. The Threads look ok but I will inpect again prior to reassembly.

 

[oldbee]

A little “booger” on either part? Teflon on threads won’t help a bit.

 

[Demonic]

Teflon tape is bad for most hydraulic pumps. Flare fittings seal at the flare, if it leaks there's a crack at the flare or the seat is bad.

 

[BeeKool]

Can you tell if its leaking between the flare nut and the line or if its leaking between threads of nut and the pump fitting?

 

[HawkRod]

Sounds like the flare, on one side or the other, is buggered (technical term) up or split.

Snug the nut almost tight, to the point where you can still move the tube, and rotate the tube back and forth. Then tighten it down. If the flare on the tube isn’t quite right that may help it seat.

This is good advice. I would add that if that doesn't work and you have a double flaring kit (for brake lines, etc), use that to clean up the end. Don't cut it off and put a new flare on it (although you could maybe do that), but rather, "re-flare" it to get the tube reshaped properly. I have done this a couple of times and that has cleaned up a buggered (technical term) end.

Good luck,

Hawk

 

[miller]

It's possible the flare nut is tight, but the flares are not seated tight.
Don't remember it's name, for a straight 45 flare, though there's copper washers made for that, to seal it. Maybe brake line seal washers. Their like regular washers, but tapered. Might find 'em at a parts house.

 

[AR67GTX]

I read a good tip on installing new flare fitting lines from a mechanic the other day - apply a light coat of chassis grease on the flare, the block seat and the threads to assist tightening and conforming the flare to the block seat. I've also usually performed a series of snugging tight a new flare fitting, loosening it, tighten it again, loosen again - doing this 4 or 5 times and gradually tightening it a little more each time to help conform the flare to the seat. Possibly a combination of the two will help if the flare or seat isn't buggered up.

Recently ran into problems with a flared brake line on a Roadrunner that seemed to be fitting up off center and wouldn't seal. But it was pretty evident after a close examination.

 

[Moparfiend]

Can you tell if its leaking between the flare nut and the line or if its leaking between threads of nut and the pump fitting?

Yes at the threads f the flare nut and the pump fitting!

 

[Moparfiend]

This is good advice. I would add that if that doesn't work and you have a double flaring kit (for brake lines, etc), use that to clean up the end. Don't cut it off and put a new flare on it (although you could maybe do that), but rather, "re-flare" it to get the tube reshaped properly. I have done this a couple of times and that has cleaned up a buggered (technical term) end.

Good luck,

Hawk

Thanks I don’t but maybe I can get one at AZ or somewhere. Its called a Double flare kit?

 

[Jackpot50]

Have had lines that were flaired off center just look at it you can tell.
Its a bitch to find if your not looking for it.

 

[HawkRod]

Thanks I don’t but maybe I can get one at AZ or somewhere. Its called a Double flare kit?

Yes. You want a 45 degree kit, not a 37 degree kit (which is for fuel injection fittings). The picture below shows the steps to make a new double flare. What I have done a couple of times is to re-do the figure 5 step. If the tube got bent or has a small imperfection, this can help clean it up. It is easy, quick and worth a try...

Good luck,

Hawk

 

[5.7 hemi]

You sure about that being a 45* degree flare? The box fitting is AN, which is 37*, and so the corresponding flare should also be 37*.


Disregard. They are a double flare.