LemonWedge
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Hiw did you address a consistent bead of RTV?
LemonWedge 470 build thread
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Hiw did you address a consistent bead of RTV?
If the heads are off I lay a bead on the china walls. Then bolt the tray down. Run a bead along the tray and install the head. To remove the tray with the heads on. Use a box cutter slit the RTV. Then pry the tray rearward. Now you can tip it into the valley to remove. To install with heads on; Run a thin amount of RTV on the china wall and the edges of the plate that seal the wall and the head. Some long bolts in the center plate holes will help manuver it with less mess. The center holes in mine at tapped 3/8x18. Tip the plate down inte valley, twist and pull it rearward. Then slide it forward over the china wall. Takes very little sealer at the china wall. Thats why I coat both surfaces. Then once the plate is bolted in, run a bead along the head to tray gap. You have a gap the thicknedss of the head gasket. Use a small nozzle and go very slow. Smooth it out afterwards. Did it this way before we machined the plate to be a 2 piece. do a dry run first with no RTV to get a feel for it.
Doug
Doug
My valley plate is fabricated 1/4” aluminum. Approx. .020 gap between the heads and plate. Same process with Right Stuff. Easy to run a nice bead along both sides. Removable, no issues. After my 2nd Victor plate cracked I traced a plate out on the 1/4” aluminum and had my Buddy shear it.
LemonWedge
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Going to tackle the job this weekend. Buddies are headed to Yakima for the weekend, they’re disappointed that I’m not making the trip with them. Not as disappointed as I.
Thinking Doug’s process through, I realized that with my block having been decked approx. .020, it’s probably going to be even tighter than normal. I run an .040 Cometic gasket, so in theory I’ll only have .020 space to work with.
I guess there’s only one way to find out. I’ll try like heck with the heads on. If I have to pull ‘em, I think I’ll survive.
Thinking Doug’s process through, I realized that with my block having been decked approx. .020, it’s probably going to be even tighter than normal. I run an .040 Cometic gasket, so in theory I’ll only have .020 space to work with.
I guess there’s only one way to find out. I’ll try like heck with the heads on. If I have to pull ‘em, I think I’ll survive.
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LemonWedge
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Ended up pulling the drivers side head. Everything went well, without any issues. Back up and going.
fullmetaljacket
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I would probably try to get some air to that carb somehow, but you probably don't want to mess with the firewall area for the air pick up Nascar style. Flat hoods rule.
Smartly and sharply cut some lard from that car. It should realistically be somewhere in the 3400-3500 Lbs. Easier said than done though.
LemonWedge
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I used to have the carb sealed to fresh air from in front of the core support (see picture). The new setup is tighter and doesn’t allow for it though. I may try to modify the airbox to work. Thinking a glass hood with an RO23 scoop May be in my future since I’d also like to run a 4-hole tapered spacer under the carb.
I’ve been watching your “elephant in the room” thread, and was a subscriber to your Moparts thread as well. Taking some weight off of this thing is going to be the main focus over the next few years for sure.
I’ve been watching your “elephant in the room” thread, and was a subscriber to your Moparts thread as well. Taking some weight off of this thing is going to be the main focus over the next few years for sure.
Brewzer67
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Just wondering how you are liking the Progression distributor now that you've had it for a while. I am thinking about pulling the plug but haven't been able to yet since I have a full MSD setup right now that works perfectly (except for the lack of vacuum advance for when I street drive). I street drive more than anything else so I would like to recover some highway mileage. any input you can provide would be appreciated.
I may have been down your road recently with regards to a different distributor. On my Hemi Dart I replaced my MSD Distributor with another performance one with the vacuum advance. I connected it to manifold vacuum so that I had full vacuum advance at idle. I locked the mechanical advance out. I set the timing at 32 degrees without the vacuum advance connected. The vacuum pot is all in @ 8” of vacuum, which my hemi had more than enough to pull it in. The results were that at idle with the advance connected I have approx 50 degrees advance. As soon as I crack the carbs the timing falls back to 32 degrees. You can see it drop back with the timing light. The car idles crisp and engine temperature dropped. The main reason I went this route was in search of a cooler running engine. Now if and when the Dart goes down the track I’ll likely throw the MSD back in. I haven’t checked about increased fuel mileage but it stands to reason that it will have improved. For whatever this is worth.
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The 440 6bbl in my Roadrunner threw a rod in October, and I never put the Progression system in.
I am hoping to get the 572 I've been putting together starting with a Bill Mitchell aluminum RB block finished before I die or am too decrepit to drive.
I'm saving the Progression system for that engine.
Air grabbler
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Hey Lemonwedge, what machine shop are you using? I’m on the peninsula and need to locate a quality machine shop. Many of the shops that I’ve heard about in our area have closed up. Thanks for any insight you may have.
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