Lets talk about Bondo...different products

[RGAZ]

X2 on the Rage Gold and the Bondo gold is crap,its like trying to sand concrete.

X2 (or is that X6 now?) I like the Rage Gold, I used the USC featherweight and it was harder to work with. There are so many things better than the bondo brand that I am suprised people still use it.

 

[Kern Dog]

Years back before I knew the difference, I used BONDO exclusively. At one time, they had a coupon in the lid where you could send away for a red BONDO windbreaker.
That cracked me up. Yeah... Like I'd go around 'sportin a jacket that brags about how much Bondo I have in my car...

 

[northerndave]

I too like the evercoat products and I've had good luck with clausen's basic filler which is Z-chrome. Clausen Z-glaze is also an excellent product but don't buy the "Gold Rush" the product is fine if you get a fresh can and use it fast but it comes in a strange can that doesn't seal worth a chit. I've opened brand new cans only to find the stuff is so heavy you'll bust a wooden mixing stick in it trying to scoop some out.

 

[Propwash]

only to find the stuff is so heavy you'll bust a wooden mixing stick in it trying to scoop some out.

I've had that same issue with the 3M brushable seam sealer in a can...I've yet to open a can that doesn't come half dried up. Sticking with the evercoat.

 

['67Satellite]

Evercoat does have a good product there. It's easy to mix and work with, sometimes it seems to cure a little faster than you want though. But, that's where really good planning comes in. A buddy and I used it on his RX-7 with wonderful results.

 

[747mopar]

Propwash brung up the most important issue and that is thickness, adhesion is the other. My rule of thumb is that if it takes more than an 1/8 to fill then your metal work isn't done. I also make sure to always properly rough the whole area and then some. The only filler that I've ever seen come off or crack is when somebody either didn't prep it or put it on way to thick. Another very important thing is to never fill an area that isn't completely sealed from moisture, like a pin hole or spot welded seam. What are you going to use for primer, I've had really good luck with 2K Urathane Primer, high build and easy sanding. Good luck

- - - Updated - - -

I learned a little trick on making a clean looking seam seal (like the rain gutters). I masked off the area around the joint, seam sealed it then used Acetone to smooth it out. Worked great, sometimes watching TV pays

 

[doberjoe]

X7 on Rage Extreme. I liked Rage Gold ok, but Extreme is a bit thinner and easier to apply. Both harden very hard, and is ok to sand. Another friend likes the featherlight, but I haven't tried it...supposedly sands much easier, but frankly, I want my end product to be pretty hard (like metal, right?). I do most of my body work after it sets up and gets too hard (like a Sur-form plane/board), and do final touches with Mirka paper and sanding boards.

Totally agree with 747 and Propwash, if you're putting on more than 1/8" (ideally less than 1/16" thick), your metalwork isn't done yet. I watched a guy do body work for weeks, and I learned a few tricks on metal shrinking, using a stud-welder/dent puller, using two people for hammer and off-dolly work, and it's really possible to get metal pretty flat.

Good idea to clean metal and epoxy prime first, then do the bodywork later. Keeps the metal underneath pristine, and the filler will stick very well to roughed up primer.