List your hardest mechanical challenge and the final Fix for it!

[RT6PK]

I was on a kick where I wanted vintage early Sun gauges in my car. I found a web dealer who specialized in NOS obsolete gauges.
He advertised that his gauges were all NOS and fully tested. I bought oil, temp, and voltmeter gauges and brand new sending units. Started the engine and the oil gauge pegged out at 100 psi. The seller said that I had to ground each gauge individually. Didn't work, He sent me a new sending unit, didn't work, He sent me a new NOS vintage oil gauge. Didn't work. I did a lot of research and found that back then, the Sun electronic oil sending unit operated in a range of 0 to 100 ohms. The new off the shelf sending unit operates in a range of 30 to 270 ohms and is therefore not compatible. I found a vintage sending unit on ebay... end of problem.

 

[Lets Roll]

Mine is not a B body but a 2007 Town and country. 41te trans died, tried to rebuild it twice and finally took it to a pro. I had one oring in the wrong place. Then 4000 miles later a valve seat drops in cyl #4 and takes out engine.

 

[Charrlie_S]

Worked at a Ford dealer in 1966. They sold a new galaxie with a 390 engine, and the customer brought it to the shop, two days later, overheating. After going over the complete cooling system and finding nothing, did a combustion leak test, negative, checked carb, timing, etc. nothing. Car would sit and idle for hours, with no problem, but would overheat in about 5 miles of driving, at any speed. Wound up doing an up grade on the cooling system to the police system. No help, swapped heads, negative. Replaced block (swapped internal parts), nope. Replaced long block, nada. Had factory reps in, still unsolved. Gave customer new car, and sent original car back to factory. Customer happy. Never did find out what the problem was.
PS: Wasn't the auto trans, either, or brakes dragging.

 

[451Mopar]

Mopar Conversion Electronic Ignition, no hot start problem. Too much voltage drop in negative battery cable. Fixed with a $5 battery cable.
Head lights cutting out after a few minutes. Corroded/loose crimp at bulkhead connector. Soldered wire to terminal.
Breaking the rocker stands on the Victor heads. Milled stands off and used max wedge style rocker shaft blocks. Not a total solution, but works. Longer valves and pared rockers installed with corrected geometry would be a better solution, but expensive.
440 that would only overheat if driven over 50 MPH, but then never cool back down. Bad head gasket.
Subaru Power Steering problems, leaking pump, and such. Fluid resivor on fender has a built-in filter that was clogged.

 

[WileE]

Only gave up once on a job & waived the white flag in defeat. Had nothing to do with b/bodies, it was a damn Mitsubishi dual OHC 6G73 engine. In a Mopar body car. Details too long, headache too painful.

 

[RT6PK]

Seventeen years old, my first car was a '67 Belvedere with a 383. The oil light came on at hot idle. It would go out when the rpm's went up. I immediately bought an oil pump. Should be an easy swap right? Even for a 17 year old. I pulled the old one off. The only problem is that the sleeve that is part of the casting that the shaft resided in decided to break off and stay in the block. Now what? I tapped the i.d. of the sleeve, had a buddy's dad rig a bolt onto the end of a slide hammer, screwed the bolt into the shaft that was stuck in the block, and pounded the shaft out. Just a high school kid, I was proud of myself.

 

[rp23g7]

probably trying to rebuild the front end on this car, my wifes old 41 Chrysler Business Coupe, with a 38 Chevy front end.

It was built in the 80s, and the guy that built it couldn't remember what he used since he built so much stuff and his garage got leveled by a tree in a storm and destroyed his build book.

spent 2 months or so trying to figure it out, taking pictures to front end shops, working with parts houses and stuff. Finally called Classic Performance Products and asked them if I sent them some pictures could they maybe tell me what they look like, so after 2 months,

I email them and in 10 minutes they email me back, that's 68-72 GM Mid size upper and lower control arms, 2nd gen Camaro spindles reversed and turned upside down, 64-67 Chevelle center link and tie rod ends, and probably springs from a truck. And it looks like they welded the frame horns onto a 41 Chrysler frame, WHAT???? in 10 min you found that out????

 

[khryslerkid]

Had a issue with a 904 behind my sons 12.0 second 340 Duster. It would kill the high gear clutch frictions when it was raced. On the street there was no issue. Took it apart 5-6 times never saw anything. Asked around, A&A, Cope, Pro-Trans, Turbo Action, Mancini. We were all stumped after the usual fluid /seal/clearance questions. Turns out it was modified for a 5 plate front drum. The rear clutch hub splines that the front frictions set on were about .050" short. Under heavy load the last friction in the front clutch assy would jump the splines on the rear clutch hub causing that friction to slip. Then it would get hot and the other frictions would fail in succession front to rear. Finally spotted the inner splined edge of the front friction rounded off. Swapped the input shaft/hub assy and never had another failure.
Doug

That ran ranks right up there with "not too many out there would have figured that one out!"

 

[1967coronet]

Ongoing problem with my 67, axle end play will not keep hold its adjustment set. Im in there a couple times per summer to reset it and pack the timkins.
I have made sure my spacer is in the chunk. I have switched bearings and rings, seals ect. { still factory style } I have switched adjuster rings and keeper lock on the pass. side axle.
I dead blow hammer set the left side , use a dial indicator to set the play on the right side 3 or 4 thou. by mid summer it will have near 1/8th inch of play. hell it may have that by the end of the week but I wait for a couple months of driving before a recheck.
I hear all the storys about the green style bearings, side load ect. But I am about ready to switch to them and pull the spacer.

 

[dvw]

Ongoing problem with my 67, axle end play will not keep hold its adjustment set. Im in there a couple times per summer to reset it and pack the timkins.
I have made sure my spacer is in the chunk. I have switched bearings and rings, seals ect. { still factory style } I have switched adjuster rings and keeper lock on the pass. side axle.
I dead blow hammer set the left side , use a dial indicator to set the play on the right side 3 or 4 thou. by mid summer it will have near 1/8th inch of play. hell it may have that by the end of the week but I wait for a couple months of driving before a recheck.
I hear all the storys about the green style bearings, side load ect. But I am about ready to switch to them and pull the spacer.

Is the bearing retainer ring moving on the RS axle?. I'll bet one side or the other is.
Doug

 

[1967coronet]

Is the bearing retainer ring moving on the RS axle?. I'll bet one side or the other is.
Doug

Thanks Doug, That is something I had not thought to check, but will.
I allways figured once pressed on it would stay home, never really gave it a second thought.
Thanks.

 

[Billccm]

Mine was my front disc conversion. The conversion of the knuckles, rotors, calipers, etc was straightforward and went without an issue. I had to replace all of the brake lines as they were damaged getting the porportioning block changed out. Had everything plumbed back together after four weeks of waiting for the correct parts from In Line Tube. New rear wheel cylinders and rubber line while I was at it.

Ready to bleed. Rear bleeded fine. Front was nothing. Not a drop to either caliper. Called and emailed Dr Diff. He said to bench bleed master again. Removed master and bench bleed again. Reinstalled. Rear bleeds fine. One drop of fluid out of the passenger caliper, drivers caliper dry. Dr Diff says to re-bleed the master cylinder. Bench bleed on car this time, then realize that there is not much pressure on rear master output. Reinstalled lines. Yes, the rear bleed fine, one drop of fluid at the fronts. Bench bleed master again with fellow A body Mopar collector that has restored several mopars over the years. Then strip out master cylinder putting lines back in. Dr Diff graciously backed up his product with a new master, including shipping, no charge.

Reinstalled everything. This time has fellow A Body mopar expert perform the bleed. Same issue; rear is fine, can't get front to bleed. He suggests gravity bleed for the front for overnight. Next morning two drops of fluid out of the passenger caliper, nothing out of the driver caliper. A body expert claims porportioning block is the problem, and throws in the towel.

Discussed with Dr Diff. Tried a few things (lines off the blaock, fluid flows) and proved porportioning block flows fluid.

Bought a MitiVac on recommendation of a friend. Rear bleed good again, passenger front bleeds, but always bubbles. Drivers front just sucks air.

Called InLine Tube and got no advice.

Hired my coworker who is a mechanical engineer, former Porsche/BMW shop mechanic, and wrench turner for hire on weekends for $45/hour. He is an excellent mechanic and just completed his 66 Chevelle LS1 swap. He recommended all along for me to hire him to make my brake lines as he has the Eastwood Brake Line tools, fixtures, double flare kits, etc. In less than 10 minutes he claims the drivers front hard line is probably sucking air. Removed that line and sure enough the double flare on BOTH ends is off center! He makes a new line with his impressive tools.

Back to two man brake bleeding. Rear is still good. Passenger front bleeds better but never could eliminate all bubbles. Drivers front now flows, but with bubbles.

He goes back and forth tightening and re tightening all tube nuts on the lines. Same issue.

Finally he gives me two choices; make another new brake line for the passenger front, or get out the vise grips and tighten the front brake lines until the tube nuts round off. I say what do I have to lose? Get out the Vise Grips.

Brakes bleed fine on all four wheels. I give him 3 $50 bills and am happy.

 

[threewood]

Mine was my front disc conversion. The conversion of the knuckles, rotors, calipers, etc was straightforward and went without an issue. I had to replace all of the brake lines as they were damaged getting the porportioning block changed out. Had everything plumbed back together after four weeks of waiting for the correct parts from In Line Tube. New rear wheel cylinders and rubber line while I was at it.

Ready to bleed. Rear bleeded fine. Front was nothing. Not a drop to either caliper. Called and emailed Dr Diff. He said to bench bleed master again. Removed master and bench bleed again. Reinstalled. Rear bleeds fine. One drop of fluid out of the passenger caliper, drivers caliper dry. Dr Diff says to re-bleed the master cylinder. Bench bleed on car this time, then realize that there is not much pressure on rear master output. Reinstalled lines. Yes, the rear bleed fine, one drop of fluid at the fronts. Bench bleed master again with fellow A body Mopar collector that has restored several mopars over the years. Then strip out master cylinder putting lines back in. Dr Diff graciously backed up his product with a new master, including shipping, no charge.

Reinstalled everything. This time has fellow A Body mopar expert perform the bleed. Same issue; rear is fine, can't get front to bleed. He suggests gravity bleed for the front for overnight. Next morning two drops of fluid out of the passenger caliper, nothing out of the driver caliper. A body expert claims porportioning block is the problem, and throws in the towel.

Discussed with Dr Diff. Tried a few things (lines off the blaock, fluid flows) and proved porportioning block flows fluid.

Bought a MitiVac on recommendation of a friend. Rear bleed good again, passenger front bleeds, but always bubbles. Drivers front just sucks air.

Called InLine Tube and got no advice.

Hired my coworker who is a mechanical engineer, former Porsche/BMW shop mechanic, and wrench turner for hire on weekends for $45/hour. He is an excellent mechanic and just completed his 66 Chevelle LS1 swap. He recommended all along for me to hire him to make my brake lines as he has the Eastwood Brake Line tools, fixtures, double flare kits, etc. In less than 10 minutes he claims the drivers front hard line is probably sucking air. Removed that line and sure enough the double flare on BOTH ends is off center! He makes a new line with his impressive tools.

Back to two man brake bleeding. Rear is still good. Passenger front bleeds better but never could eliminate all bubbles. Drivers front now flows, but with bubbles.

He goes back and forth tightening and re tightening all tube nuts on the lines. Same issue.

Finally he gives me two choices; make another new brake line for the passenger front, or get out the vise grips and tighten the front brake lines until the tube nuts round off. I say what do I have to lose? Get out the Vise Grips.

Brakes bleed fine on all four wheels. I give him 3 $50 bills and am happy.

Cripes! What a nightmare.

Biggest challenge for my build was dealing with a short to ground issue in the dash wiring. It would come and go, lights wouldn't work, then work. Turn signal would short, etc. Turned out to be two issues. The first was the dash circuit pinout pins were loose even though they felt fine. The fix was soldering a wire inside the pin to bridge the gap to the circuit board. This resulted in the second issue....the solder connection shorting to the backside of the cluster housing. There is suppose to be a gasket behind the board to keep the back of the pins from contacting the metal cluster (mine was left out) and the solder on the back was just tall enough to make intermittent contact, exasperated by wiggling the connector.

 

[dvw]

Thanks Doug, That is something I had not thought to check, but will.
I allways figured once pressed on it would stay home, never really gave it a second thought.
Thanks.

I built my racecar 5 years ago. Last year I noticed that the RR rotor was hitting the fixed Wil-Wood caliper bracket. Pulled the axles. Bearing had moved. Why? I always wondered why I had a spare pair of Green bearings and 4 retainers. Now I new. On a second point I have seen them installed wrong, reused, welded, and loose. With stuff this old it always pays to check.
Doug

 

[Pops1967GTX]

I have had some electrical shorts that have driven me Nuts....Needed to quickly learned to used a electrical schematic and proper testers. Learned to separate systems to properly find the problem. And then again, I still pull my hair out often...

 

[493 Mike]

Been working on B bodies for 45 years when I find the solution I will let everone know.

I've got you by 5 years but, I love ever minute of it!
Mike

 

[493 Mike]

Ongoing problem with my 67, axle end play will not keep hold its adjustment set. Im in there a couple times per summer to reset it and pack the timkins.
I have made sure my spacer is in the chunk. I have switched bearings and rings, seals ect. { still factory style } I have switched adjuster rings and keeper lock on the pass. side axle.
I dead blow hammer set the left side , use a dial indicator to set the play on the right side 3 or 4 thou. by mid summer it will have near 1/8th inch of play. hell it may have that by the end of the week but I wait for a couple months of driving before a recheck.
I hear all the storys about the green style bearings, side load ect. But I am about ready to switch to them and pull the spacer.

3-4 thousandth's is too tight for axle shaft end play in the 8 3/4. Try .012".
Mike

 

[munger77]

Mine was my front disc conversion. The conversion of the knuckles, rotors, calipers, etc was straightforward and went without an issue. I had to replace all of the brake lines as they were damaged getting the porportioning block changed out. Had everything plumbed back together after four weeks of waiting for the correct parts from In Line Tube. New rear wheel cylinders and rubber line while I was at it.

Ready to bleed. Rear bleeded fine. Front was nothing. Not a drop to either caliper. Called and emailed Dr Diff. He said to bench bleed master again. Removed master and bench bleed again. Reinstalled. Rear bleeds fine. One drop of fluid out of the passenger caliper, drivers caliper dry. Dr Diff says to re-bleed the master cylinder. Bench bleed on car this time, then realize that there is not much pressure on rear master output. Reinstalled lines. Yes, the rear bleed fine, one drop of fluid at the fronts. Bench bleed master again with fellow A body Mopar collector that has restored several mopars over the years. Then strip out master cylinder putting lines back in. Dr Diff graciously backed up his product with a new master, including shipping, no charge.

Reinstalled everything. This time has fellow A Body mopar expert perform the bleed. Same issue; rear is fine, can't get front to bleed. He suggests gravity bleed for the front for overnight. Next morning two drops of fluid out of the passenger caliper, nothing out of the driver caliper. A body expert claims porportioning block is the problem, and throws in the towel.

Discussed with Dr Diff. Tried a few things (lines off the blaock, fluid flows) and proved porportioning block flows fluid.

Bought a MitiVac on recommendation of a friend. Rear bleed good again, passenger front bleeds, but always bubbles. Drivers front just sucks air.

Called InLine Tube and got no advice.

Hired my coworker who is a mechanical engineer, former Porsche/BMW shop mechanic, and wrench turner for hire on weekends for $45/hour. He is an excellent mechanic and just completed his 66 Chevelle LS1 swap. He recommended all along for me to hire him to make my brake lines as he has the Eastwood Brake Line tools, fixtures, double flare kits, etc. In less than 10 minutes he claims the drivers front hard line is probably sucking air. Removed that line and sure enough the double flare on BOTH ends is off center! He makes a new line with his impressive tools.

Back to two man brake bleeding. Rear is still good. Passenger front bleeds better but never could eliminate all bubbles. Drivers front now flows, but with bubbles.

He goes back and forth tightening and re tightening all tube nuts on the lines. Same issue.

Finally he gives me two choices; make another new brake line for the passenger front, or get out the vise grips and tighten the front brake lines until the tube nuts round off. I say what do I have to lose? Get out the Vise Grips.

Brakes bleed fine on all four wheels. I give him 3 $50 bills and am happy.

I've heard more nightmares in the braking system than I ever thought. I have front discs, new master, etc, and the car doesn't stop quickly and still feels like drums; so I just drive VERY carefully.

 

[munger77]

Kern Dog, wow; you had 10 years of frustration from 2005-15. What was the solution, hi octane fuel or?

 

[Xp29h]

For me, I've got 2. They're both related and it all started with brakes. When the car came home, it showed up with an electric vacuum pump. The p.o. said the 383hp had such a big cam that it didn't provide enough vacuum to run the booster but measured at 14 inches. Long story shortened, the bakes wilwood, were awful with the pump. So , checked it and 25 inches, good. Removed it and brakes actually got better. But still not good. Removed master cylinder thinking booster diaphragm was bad. This is where I found someone installed the mc pushrod in wrong and scored the mc leaking all by. Fix: Cleaned up, installed new wilwood master and much better when done right.

The 2nd one was the cam. I didn't know what it was, the p.o. didn't know what it was either. Replaced it with something that should have done quite a bit better for vacuum. But didn't. Turned out 383's pistons were too tight and not nearly close enough to he deck. 7;1 compression and couldn't get anything going. Fix: 512 stroker, 383hp on engine stand!