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looking for the 727 torqueflite guru's ( 440-68 GTX )

I don't quite understand this - it shouldn't matter if the rear clutches are applied, or if something is locked up, or if the entire transmission is totally seized up inside. It wouldn't be any different than a normal car with the brake on...nothing inside the transmission is moving if the wheels aren't turning. The torque convertor, unless it has a stall speed much lower than idle, should allow the engine to keep running.

-=Photon440=-


I agree as the torque converter is the only thing in the trans that can cause this and it would have to be locked up like a welded sprag. Anything else and the converter slippage should let it idle just like in drive or reverse. Ron
 
UPDATE. STILL STALLS WITH OLD VALVE BODY PUT BACK IN. ( I SAID CAR WANTS TO STALL IN VIDEO WITH LOWER RPM'S , BUT THAT IS IN GEAR ONLY ) HERE IS THE VIDEO ( STEADY 15 ON VACUUM AND 850 RPM AND DROPS TO 650 IN GEAR ) DID GET IT IN REVERSE AND DRIVE BUT ONCE AGAIN HAD TO FEATHER IT IN AND SHE STALLED BOTH TIMES. GUESS IT IS TIME TO PULL THE TRANNY AND FIND OUT IF THE CONVERTER IS HOSED.


Well. Today is the day to pour in the fluid and start the car up with the old valve body in it. It does not look good that the valve body is the problem but have to start somewhere. WILL UPDATE THIS POST WITH RESULTS AND A VIDEO.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuh6GuCP6So&feature=youtu.be
 
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Well. The tranny is out of the car. Drained the converter and the fluid is pure as can be. I made some calls and the only way to check the converter out is to cut it up and nobody local does that. For $180 a local tranny shop that's been around for 25 yrs. will inspect the whole transmission and he says if there are all new parts in there something is to tight. HE DOUBTS THIS IS A CONVERTER PROBLEM.
 
Well. The tranny is out of the car. Drained the converter and the fluid is pure as can be. I made some calls and the only way to check the converter out is to cut it up and nobody local does that. For $180 a local tranny shop that's been around for 25 yrs. will inspect the whole transmission and he says if there are all new parts in there something is to tight. HE DOUBTS THIS IS A CONVERTER PROBLEM.

Why would he doubt that?
With the engine running your building fluid PSI in the trans which will completely apply the clutch pack when in gear. This locks the trans to the rear wheels and the whole system relies on the converter to slip to prevent the engine from stalling while in gear and brakes applied....
Sure sounds like converter to me "assuming the engine doesn,t have issues"!
:ozzie and the spide
 
Why would he doubt that?
With the engine running your building fluid PSI in the trans which will completely apply the clutch pack when in gear. This locks the trans to the rear wheels and the whole system relies on the converter to slip to prevent the engine from stalling while in gear and brakes applied....
Sure sounds like converter to me "assuming the engine doesn,t have issues"!
:ozzie and the spide

Hello. He is saying this because I told him this is the same converter I had in it before and it ran fine with it ( same cam ). Nothing really changed in the engine ( except rebuild) but the whole tranny was torn apart with new parts. Thanks. We will see.
 
Hello. He is saying this because I told him this is the same converter I had in it before and it ran fine with it ( same cam ). Nothing really changed in the engine ( except rebuild) but the whole tranny was torn apart with new parts. Thanks. We will see.

Dave I have a guy who will open your converter and rebuild it if you choose drop me a line will be passing your way next week on my way to Toronto let me know
 
It shouldn't be that hard to drop in a used stock converter and just see what happens. A few hours work and the results will be in.
 
It shouldn't be that hard to drop in a used stock converter and just see what happens. A few hours work and the results will be in.

Unless you know for sure what and where it came from, i wouldn't put a used converter in. You cant see whats in there and if it came fron a failed trans, any crap in it will go right into your cooler and then transmission. Just for the heck of it you should check your cooler while you have the trans put. If you have compressed air maybe rig up a hose to it and make sure you can blow through it, making sure not to spray yourself of course. I hae seen cans of flush similar to the fix a flat cans. Regular can with a hose attached that you hook to the cooler and it pushes cleaner through it. Clogged cooler shouldnt make the converter cause the car to stall, but if it is a converter issue, the first place the fluid goes when it leaves the converter is the cooler.
 
Dave it sounds more like an engine problem to me. Maybe a carb air leak or idle adj. Does the engine still stall when you put it in gear with the rear wheels off the ground? And no brake on just see if the wheels spin. It should let the wheels turn when in gear. Probably more than 1 problem here. Let us know what happens.
 
Dave it sounds more like an engine problem to me. Maybe a carb air leak or idle adj. Does the engine still stall when you put it in gear with the rear wheels off the ground? And no brake on just see if the wheels spin. It should let the wheels turn when in gear. Probably more than 1 problem here. Let us know what happens.

Hello. Its a brand new $425 edelbrock carb. Yes to your question. Wheels do barely spin with no power in gear. Lots of power in neutral and park. I agree more than one problem. Dropping tranny off tomorrow. Time will tell. Thanks.
 
Finally an answer. BAD TORQUE CONVERTER IS THE WINNER. I had no idea this was a stock converter with the cam combination I had. Plus the car ran fine before rebuild. The converter was worn and took out the bushing in tranny. THE DAMAGE WAS A $100 TO LOOK AT TRANNY ( Money well spent for piece of mind ).... THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP. It will take a week or so to get it all back together and run the car with my schedule. Will update.
 
Glad you finally found the issue. Sorry it took so long, i was really not thinking converter. Did it mess anything else up? Is the pump ok? I would love to see pictures of the converter hub to see how its worn. Is the trans going to be disassembled, or just fix the worn out stuff? If it tore up the bushing, i would definitely change the fluid and filter, and flush the cooler. Metal shavings from the bushing had to go somewhere.
 
Glad you finally found the issue. Sorry it took so long, i was really not thinking converter. Did it mess anything else up? Is the pump ok? I would love to see pictures of the converter hub to see how its worn. Is the trans going to be disassembled, or just fix the worn out stuff? If it tore up the bushing, i would definitely change the fluid and filter, and flush the cooler. Metal shavings from the bushing had to go somewhere.


Thanks guys. It did tear up the bushing and there were shavings. These new guys I went with were very respectable and did me right on the price of tearing this whole thing down for a lookie ( WISH I KNEW ABOUT THEM WHEN I ORIGINALLY BUILT THE TRANNY ). This was a tough one ( BECAUSE SHE RAN FINE WITH THIS CONVERTER IN IT BEFORE ) Everything else checks out O.K. I can take some pics of the old converter. Dont think I will cut it up any time soon with all the work ahead of me, but am curious myself what this thing looks like inside ( myself and everybody else can not figure out how this thing ever ran with my cam specs ( 230 duration at .050 lift ) I had in the car ). Thanks again guys for all your help.
 
dave---sure had me scratching my head for quite awhile!!!! Glad you got it figured out.
 
Dave im glad to hear the situation solved! Not good news but now you know and can move forward! Good deal.
 
I had a Chevy van had a total lockup converter in it. Spose to lock up at 2500 RPM and up. Well it started locking up all the time. When I put it in gear it would lurch and kill the engine. So I would have to start it in neutral, then rev the motor up and drop into drive to go anywhere. Was surprised the driveshaft and u joints held up! But if the converter is locked, it will kill the engine immediately when put in gear. Good luck!
 
I had a Chevy van had a total lockup converter in it. Spose to lock up at 2500 RPM and up. Well it started locking up all the time. When I put it in gear it would lurch and kill the engine. So I would have to start it in neutral, then rev the motor up and drop into drive to go anywhere. Was surprised the driveshaft and u joints held up! But if the converter is locked, it will kill the engine immediately when put in gear. Good luck!

GM's go through lockup solenoids like crazy. Seen more than one guy at a light rev the motor and do a neutral drop to get rolling.:tongue3: The money saved by not replacing it immediately rarely collects enough interest to buy the new trans soon to come.
 
Yea I changed that solenoid but it didn't fix it. Only paid $100 for the van, and ran it a couple of years. The people who sold it to me thought it had a bad rod, thats why so cheap. But turns out it was the torque converter was making a knocing sound, then finally locked up after 12,000 miles. Ha ha. Best deal I ever got on a used car! Glad You got to the bottom of your tranny problem Dave. C Ya
 
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