Magnesium anode to stop the rust

[Cranky]

Unless you put it in the radiator filler neck an anode on the frame ain't gonna do squat.

Well yeah. Thought about doing that years ago but procrastination rears it's ugly head. Probably wouldn't do much good since they range from 95 to 97 lol

 

[Bold & Old]

A sacrificial zinc anode is a must for me.... i have been using them for over 50 years now in my radiators.
No brown rusty looking radiator fluid.
how many times a water pump fails and leaves pieces of rusted shaving in the fluid only to dissolve in time polluting the coolant.... it also helps keeping the inside cleaner.

Dont take my saying so.......research it yourself.

I even used them in my steam locomotive boilers.
removing partials that will clog steam safety valves.....

I am surprised that folks dont know or take the time to use one... its a good investment in your cooling system.

I haven seen many threads on the subject here on b bodies.

 

[Dave6T4]

What about the plastic box that is stuck to some other piece of plastic under your hood, and wired to the battery? The Jeep GC that I bought had this on it as part of some security and rust prevention package the PO paid for as well as extended warranty. I think all it does is drain the battery, so I unplugged it. What a rip! I have always used Krown slime job instead.

 

[RemCharger]

Interesting subject. You have to run an anode in your camper water heater as far as I know. To keep it stable, not stale.

 

[BB BELLA]

where does the sacrificial zinc end up! I think in automotive it's more important to keep the PH correct and that will reduce corrosion more effectively!

water heaters should be kept hot or drained,letting them sit cold produces bacteria!

 

[Bold & Old]

What about the plastic box that is stuck to some other piece of plastic under your hood, and wired to the battery? The Jeep GC that I bought had this on it as part of some security and rust prevention package the PO paid for as well as extended warranty. I think all it does is drain the battery, so I unplugged it. What a rip! I have always used Krown slime job instead.

i really am not understanding of what you are saying or asking in relationship to this thread.
but
I do remember 30-40 years ago a product came out that was suppose to keep your cars steel rust free and was connected to the battery... from what I now remember....... if this is what you are referring too?

They were found to be ineffective and the product disappeared as I remembered

This thread is about radiators exclusively please.

 

[YY1]

Question about the radiator rod.

Do you drill a new hole, and thread the fitting in with some kind of O ring to seal it?

I like the idea, especially for my Dakota that has the well known rusty coolant issue.

 

[Roger63]

I think you might have some success if you put the anode on or very near areas you want to protect, but no way a chunk of Mg up front would protect the rear from corrosion. The reason it works better on boats is they are all in the same electrolytic bath (seawater).

Most of these types of rust protection schemes have been proven to be snake oil, you might have some small benefit but I wouldn’t count on much.

Agreed, a boat has the anode mounted very close to the outdrives which it is intended to protect.

 

[Bold & Old]

where does the sacrificial zinc end up! I think in automotive it's more important to keep the PH correct and that will reduce corrosion more effectively!

water heaters should be kept hot or drained,letting them sit cold produces bacteria!

The anode is the electrode where electricity moves into. The cathode is the electrode where electricity is given out or flows out.

from what I read the by product of the anode corrosion is a form of inert gas.... no clear answer i found.

they have proven to extend the life of the radiators and engines in this case.

My personal experience is..... this is true.

 

[Bold & Old]

Question about the radiator rod.

Do you drill a new hole, and thread the fitting in with some kind of O ring to seal it?

I like the idea, especially for my Dakota that has the well known rusty coolant issue.

The radiator rod is more inconvenient due to its location at the bottom of the radiator.

no drilling just remove the radiators drain plug which is 1/4 pipe thread and screw in the new 1/4 threaded anode.

back in the days the anode was located under the radiator cap... so when it was expired one would simply buy another and replace it..

today they do sell a radiator cap style on ebay.

 

[Bold & Old]

Agreed, a boat has the anode mounted very close to the outdrives which it is intended to protect.

not all anodes are zinc but all have the same idea in mind... especially aluminum.

 

[Bold & Old]

Question about the radiator rod.

Do you drill a new hole, and thread the fitting in with some kind of O ring to seal it?

I like the idea, especially for my Dakota that has the well known rusty coolant issue.

look at the photo in my initial start of this thread.

it tells what you need to do.

 

[Bold & Old]

Interesting subject. You have to run an anode in your camper water heater as far as I know. To keep it stable, not stale.

The PH is a different thing like in a swimming pool.... the anode only protects from corrosion.

my steam locomotive had several a zinc anodes in it.... i also had to keep the PH also so t would steam well.

water from the tap had all kinds of chemicals including rust...... some are removed with the zinc anode and some were managed with the boiler compound I used.

The best and most ideal water was distilled water... the compound brought it closer to being ideal for steaming.

back in the day there were steam radiators in houses.

The worst enemy was the white calcium buildup inside thus less efficiency........ eventually the radiator had to be replaced or it failed with leaks from rust corrosion.

I dont remember if any anodes were used back then.

 

[YY1]

Dakota drain is IIRC in the plastic part of the tank

Is there a pic of your live steam engine in the "Train Lovers" thread?

 

[Bold & Old]

 

[Bold & Old]

Dakota drain is IIRC in the plastic part of the tank

Is there a pic of your live steam engine in the "Train Lovers" thread?

yes

 

[YY1]

4-4-2?

That's a whole lotta love, labor and dedication.

...and mad skills!

 

[Bold & Old]

4-4-2?

That's a whole lotta love, labor and dedication.

...and mad skills!

Thanks...

 

[Tony Tee]

If you have a old junk air cooled vw magnesium engine block lying around. You can cut it up and make many sacrificial anodes. But be careful! Magnesium is very flammable and almost impossible to extinguish.. I had magnesium dust on my bench catch fire when I was trying to weld a magnesium vw engine block for aircraft use.

 

[Bold & Old]

If you have a old junk air cooled vw magnesium engine block lying around. You can cut it up and make many sacrificial anodes. But be careful! Magnesium is very flammable and almost impossible to extinguish.. I had magnesium dust on my bench catch fire when I was trying to weld a magnesium vw engine block for aircraft use.

The type of anode dose not have to be magnesium....... just a cheap zinc one will do.

Like the picture shows at the top of this second page.

no flames at all.