Master cyl studs different?

[YY1]

So, my rockauto M/C came without studs- no big deal.

I pushed out the ones from the one I'm replacing, wire brush them, and paint them...

...and when I go to draw them into the new M/C, they just fall all the way in- No splining action at all.

What gives with that? The don't look damaged, and they were tight in the old one.

How can I be sure any new ones will spline in?

 

[69Bee]

The Chinese don't care, because you are not going to send it back to them... I have seen this before, so your only option is a more expensive one locally, or get bigger bolts for it.

 

[YY1]

It is Raybestos brand, but of course, made in china.

Guess I'll go splined stud shopping. I'm sure that will be fun.

 

[Cranky]

Send that damn China made crap back. If we all did that more often, maybe we'd start getting better made products. It's bad enough that we have to buy China made products but it's insult to injury that we get so much junk from them too and still have to pay for it in more ways than one!

 

[69Bee]

Send that damn China made crap back. If we all did that more often, maybe we'd start getting better made products. It's bad enough that we have to buy China made products but it's insult to injury that we get so much junk from them too and still have to pay for it in more ways than one!

Right!!!!

 

[SublimeSixpack]

I had the same issue with the master cylinder that came with the front disc conversion kit from SSBC.
I see a lot of this sort of thing with replacement parts as well as reproduction parts. It's annoying.

 

[YY1]

It occurred to me that it didn't specify power or manual on that particular M/C, and looking back the site, some do.

I would assume that's a reference to bore size, but what are the odds that the power M/C has larger holes, since studs aren't used in the same way.

That would be kina silly, since I don't see that extra 1/64th" being an issue for the threaded part, and the extra unnecessary engineering had to cost.