Max fuel pressure for Carter 3705 carbs?

[fmahannah]

Cylinder walls showed no damage, scuffs or marks. Checked entire bores for each cylinder. No ridge at top. Can still see all hone marks. Supposedly there are only 2600 miles on this motor rebuild.

 

[fmahannah]

The one thing I did not check correctly was valve guides. I replaced the seals and all of the valves and guides passed the "pop" test, but is it possible guides are worn and the smoke is the result of that? Would it smoke all the time, especially if it is the exhaust guides since the umbrella seals go up and down with the valves and do not lock down onto the top of the guides? If oil gets past the exhaust guides where does it go? If intake guides were worn wouldn't the positive seals there stop the oil? Sorry so many questions but this is driving me crazy since the smoke started only after putting rebuild carbs on it and nothing else was really change to that point? Over 6 grand and a 3 month wait would be a lot to pay for something that I could fix myself.

Thanks

 

[Dragon Slayer]

The seal should stay in position. If you open the valve cover are the seals off the stem? Seals on with valves closed, valve goes down (open) and seal stays on stem, when the valve goes back up (closed) and if seal moves off stem you have oil access to the valve guide and into the exhaust manifold, or intake or both since there will be reversion based on cam. If excess clearance, could be issue.

I think you have rings not as problem based on your visual unless one is broken but that also would have shown on compression test most likely.

You may have a combo of rich and oil leak. Can you find a good mechanic via one of the car clubs who would have a tester and better knowledge. Doesn't need to be a mopar guy, just a solid tech who work on 60-70 vintage car.

Would be good news if just fuel and head work again.

 

[fmahannah]

The intake seals are positive viton type (done when it was rebuilt for PO) but exhaust valves are umbrellas. Intakes stay in place when valve moves, but exhaust umbrellas do not since they are not positive type and ride up and down with the valves. My previous polara 413/426 was th same way.
Umbrella (first in pic) fits very loosely over top of guide but snug fit on valve stem so lift up and down with the valve.

 

[Ceedawg]

Didn’t read all the posts but the carbs idle feed restrictions need to be opened up imo

 

[steve340]

I agree with Dragon Slayer - those plugs look wet and slimy like oil fouling.
When they did the motor they could have used low tension rings or they just plain have not bedded in.
I will not use low tension rings unless the engine has a vacuum pump. Even then I tell the owner if it burns oil - your problem.
I fitted a set to my own engine and the plugs looked better than yours but it was still the rings that were the problem. I made some of the issue by not using the right oil during break in. I had to tear the engine down I couldn't stand it.
Rich mixture on the plugs is sort of "lumpy" and dry like charcoal. Combustion chambers are dry carbon also.
If the plug and chamber are wet and slimy it is oil.
You seem stuck on mixture but it still keeps smoking - logic suggests you may be barking up the wrong tree.
I get it no one wants to pull a new motor and you need to try what you can - but sooner or later you need to perhaps go on a different track.

 

[Geoff 2]

I had a look at the 3 videos. Definitely looks like oil smoke. And it seems to be worse as temp increases. Which I would expect because the oil gets thinner as it heats up & would be easier to enter the combustion chamber, wherever the oil leak is coming from.
I said this earlier in the thread that I suspect the intake manifold is not sealing properly to the heads. There are not too many places/areas that oil can migrate into the chamber.
One possibility, extreme but possible, since so many other areas have been checked is either the head gasket surface, on the block or head is not flat & has a hollow in it. This would have be near the feed hole for the rockers or towards the valley, where oil would be present at both locations to be drawn into chamber.

If this was my engine: I would beg, borrow or steal a single carb intake of any type or brand & try that. You can use one of the 3705 carbs because the object of the test to see if the oil burning stops, so it only has to provide fast idle.

 

[Ceedawg]

My max wedge blew the intake gaskets twice, very thin gaskets back in the day (70s) make sure the intake bolts are in the proper place too (size is embosed by each hole) and torqued in sequence. I also used the steel pan gasket with the ports cut off to keep oil off the intake bottom (sealed to bottom of heads) I also ran no exhaust valve seals, perfect circle on intakes and it used no oil. J7 Champion plugs (lawn mower plugs)

 

[4406bbl]

I said this a long time ago, single 4 with known good carb to see if it stops smoking and to get the distributor right. Then mess with the crossram. Those more familiar with these heads can say if a standard 440 intake will fit and seal with a valley plate.

 

[Ceedawg]

I said this a long time ago, single 4 with known good carb to see if it stops smoking and to get the distributor right. Then mess with the crossram. Those more familiar with these heads can say if a standard 440 intake will fit and seal with a valley plate.

I made spacers (wood) to fit a 383 intake to the taller max ports. On mine with a 440 intake in place I could see down in the ports on top.

 

[4406bbl]

So an indy intake it is

 

[Ceedawg]

So an indy intake it is

Before Indy or others the 440 manifold was welded at top (a lot) then cut to fit. My 383 Torker with wooden spacers was the talk of the pits, everyone had to come see (still have them). Like the hoochy koochy show at a carnival. Car ran as fast or faster with a 3310, then I learned how to work the Hollys and Carters and the x ram went back on.

 

[4406bbl]

Kind of figured that, I just never tried one myself, always indy with the few max wedge heads I was around.

 

[fmahannah]

So an indy intake it is

Yes the intake gaskets are very thin. Intake bolts are in the correct sequence as marked on the intake. Which intake specifically will fit correctly? Heads are max wedge reproduction P5007494. I have four or five edelbrock 4 barrels sitting around that ran on my Javelins and my previous Polara. Not against trying a different intake to narrow down the problem.

Thanks

 

[fmahannah]

Also, any tips on pulling a max wedge out of a 63 Polara? Can the 727 stay in the car? Just in case I get frisky and decide to do it myself instead of paying out $6500.

Thanks

 

[fmahannah]

Question, I bought a borescope, but if I wanted to use it to determine specifically where or how oil is getting into the intake or combustion chambers what steps should I take? Can I see anything useful if I pull a carb and look down into the intake? I posted once before that inside the intake the recesses the intake bolts sit in all have fluid in them that appeared to be gas, but where would I look for oil if say the intake gasket was not sealing?

Thanks

 

[fmahannah]

My max wedge blew the intake gaskets twice, very thin gaskets back in the day (70s) make sure the intake bolts are in the proper place too (size is embosed by each hole) and torqued in sequence. I also used the steel pan gasket with the ports cut off to keep oil off the intake bottom (sealed to bottom of heads) I also ran no exhaust valve seals, perfect circle on intakes and it used no oil. J7 Champion plugs (lawn mower plugs)

What oil did you run in your max wedge? And what gaskets does everyone use that are not so thin? I used FEL-1218. Also what sealer is recommended for the intake bolts?

Thanks

 

[Ceedawg]

What oil did you run in your max wedge? And what gaskets does everyone use that are not so thin? I used FEL-1218. Also what sealer is recommended for the intake bolts?

Thanks

At that time 40 weight, gaskets might have been Mr Gasket, ends were black silicone, no sealer on bolts.
I had one bolt come out and rattle down around valve, didn’t turn and go thru thank god. Only tale tell was a high speed miss (popping) drawing air out of valley.
Use yellow trim adhesive to glue gasket to head, (One side) set manifold on to set overnite, don’t bolt it down. Then put a thin film of silicone on intake ports and glob it up on China wall ends. Lay it in place and tighten while silicone is fresh. Worked well for mine.

 

[4406bbl]

Flat out gaskets makes a .100 thick set, I am sure there are others, felpro are .060. I use permatex pipe thread sealant on intake bolts, any pipe dope would work, or permatex #2. At some point you should put the intake on with everything clean, strips of clay on the 4 ends and a strip in the middle, tighten the intake, remove it, cut with a knife and measure how thick a gasket you need. I doubt you will see damage in the cylinders with the borescope, but I would look where the intake and head meet and see if there is oil on the head before the valve. Once you have the intake and exhaust manifolds off the engine a max is simple to remove.

 

[4406bbl]

By 4 ends I mean the intake face of the heads, not the China walls, I am assuming the intake has a gap there at the China walls
and is not sitting up on those with no gasket, if it is you found your problem.