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Media Blasting

Ok, thought so...wasn't sure. I would send it all to the blaster, the obviously bad areas will be worse, and you may just discover some new bad areas too!
 
To Acid dip or media blast

I've been reading for 2 days the pro's and con's of each. There just aren't many chem strippers around anymore on the East Coast and not quite sure its the way to go.

So it looks like I'm going to media blast my Superbee. I thought about selling it and thank god I didn't. So I met wih the painter today. He wants it stripped down to metal I plan on doing the entire exterior, but not the interior floors.

My question is - What media do I need to request? Attached are pics of the Bee
 

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Your Media Blaster 'should' know what to use, tell him to not warp anything, see if he's done more cars before yours...i.e. pictures? Looks like a nice car! Might as well do the entire car inside and out. You have a rotisserie, does your blaster guy have one too? I use soft blasting media all the time, sometimes I need to use something harder (never sand) for removing chrome, etc.
 
Couple of questions.. and i'm sure whom ever i call will tell me ...but here goes.
When having a car media blasted do most company's remove or like to have doors- trunk-fenders already off. And do most company's include Primer in their quote ?
Also whats a fair price to have a complete job done. I know everyone uses different labor scales but roughly what would be a fair price to pay. Or... what would too much be.
 
What about Soda? is Soda ok? I thought I read that Soda can seep out of cracks and cause paint damage.. And what about sand for the bottom of the car. I scraped off all of the undercoating with a torch and putty knife but there is still resdue.

Does anyone know of a media blasting company in MD or DE? That they trust?
 
Well,, This is what I got done today...
 

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I can take a stab at answering those questions! Price and 'fair' is all relative. However, do you want to do follow-on work after your blaster does his job? Meaning, what I see in this pic is a guy Soda blasting the floors. Yes, its clean, but, its too smooth for paint adhesion, and, rust activity is still active. When you cook a steak, you want the flavor inside, not just brushed on the outside right? So, what do you do? You tenderize the meat, punch it a bit...then, flavor it. Media blasting 'should' be the same way, punch that metal, find the weak areas, use soft media, use lots of cfm, low air pressure -- this way you mitigate all chances for warping/damaging panels. Then, put the epoxy primer on, on top of the slightly profiled surface.

Cost v Value. Weight them out. A welder/fabricator down the street from me asked me like 2 months ago how much to Media blast his Chevy cab, I told him about 1000 dollars, he never called me back. He sent it to the sand blaster for a 400 dollar job, good deal right? He got it cheaper! But, his cab is completely junk, warped everywhere. He has not come to me to inquire, but, his next door neighbor did when I brought my motorcycle in for a brake bleed down. He asked me if I did his cab, I said nope, he asked me to, but never heard back from him. He's paying far more now b/c he saved 600 dollars in media blasting fees!

PPG will not stand behind their paints if applied to fiberglass, either composite of hand layed glass if the surface was soda blasted. I don't use Soda, so, I can't say good or bad about it, I know it's good for graffiti and mold damages.

I would wonder why use sand for the bottom and then why treat the topside better with other softer medias? Are you trying to save a few hundred dollars? Is it worth it? I use the same media for the entire car.

Yes, remove all the removables; doors, deck lid, glass, fenders, etc.

I get for a B Body complete just over $2100.00 for the entire car with doors, etc. I would be cautious about a blaster that is eager to put your car into primer as part of the price! I've seen them do this to hide work they DON'T do. Primer can hid a LOT! This is why I don't prime unless they ask for it, then, I send it out to get primed, with lots of before, during and after pics to prove to them I did my job. To put the entire car in epoxy after is about 600-700 dollars more on top of the media blast price. I can tell you, this is hard labor and intense work to yield the results you need, and I take too long, most shops would close up because they can't afford to keep a car 10+ days. But, I can b/c I have a US Army retirement check coming in, so, the stuff that goes out is pristine and could not be better anywhere for the same price.

Good luck!
 
To qualify the above, that price adjusted to 2500.00 would include the K member, rear end, brake backing plates, sway bar, strut rods, A arms, Spindles, dash. Yup, can do 'em all with the same media.

I did some North East 69 Barracuda fenders today, man, the rust on them was insane! Holes popping up all over the place where the metal is too thin, and will need to be replaced. My kind of fenders though, dig into them, and, make them whole again! All it would cost is time right? :)
 
In the North east blasters that know what they are doing charge 1250.00 for a complete B body using Dupont Star blast Xl. chemical Dipping is usually around 3200.00
 
I paid $1675 to have the entire car in the photos above soda blasted. It took 13 hours. http://www.gcmobilesodablasting.com/ . These guys did every nook and cranny. My next step will be to power wash every nook and cranny and hole with http://holdtight102.com/ . I'm very very please with the finished (stripped product). No surprises and super clean. Nice layer of dust left on it to prevent flash rust.
 
I paid $1675 to have the entire car in the photos above soda blasted. It took 13 hours. http://www.gcmobilesodablasting.com/ . These guys did every nook and cranny. My next step will be to power wash every nook and cranny and hole with http://holdtight102.com/ . I'm very very please with the finished (stripped product). No surprises and super clean. Nice layer of dust left on it to prevent flash rust.

PS - And did it in my driveway.. Hosed off the garage doors and mother nature took care of the rest on the driveway today. Nice rain... poof gone.
 
I can take a stab at answering those questions! Price and 'fair' is all relative. However, do you want to do follow-on work after your blaster does his job? Meaning, what I see in this pic is a guy Soda blasting the floors. Yes, its clean, but, its too smooth for paint adhesion, and, rust activity is still active. When you cook a steak, you want the flavor inside, not just brushed on the outside right? So, what do you do? You tenderize the meat, punch it a bit...then, flavor it. Media blasting 'should' be the same way, punch that metal, find the weak areas, use soft media, use lots of cfm, low air pressure -- this way you mitigate all chances for warping/damaging panels. Then, put the epoxy primer on, on top of the slightly profiled surface.

Cost v Value. Weight them out. A welder/fabricator down the street from me asked me like 2 months ago how much to Media blast his Chevy cab, I told him about 1000 dollars, he never called me back. He sent it to the sand blaster for a 400 dollar job, good deal right? He got it cheaper! But, his cab is completely junk, warped everywhere. He has not come to me to inquire, but, his next door neighbor did when I brought my motorcycle in for a brake bleed down. He asked me if I did his cab, I said nope, he asked me to, but never heard back from him. He's paying far more now b/c he saved 600 dollars in media blasting fees!

PPG will not stand behind their paints if applied to fiberglass, either composite of hand layed glass if the surface was soda blasted. I don't use Soda, so, I can't say good or bad about it, I know it's good for graffiti and mold damages.

I would wonder why use sand for the bottom and then why treat the topside better with other softer medias? Are you trying to save a few hundred dollars? Is it worth it? I use the same media for the entire car.

Yes, remove all the removables; doors, deck lid, glass, fenders, etc.

I get for a B Body complete just over $2100.00 for the entire car with doors, etc. I would be cautious about a blaster that is eager to put your car into primer as part of the price! I've seen them do this to hide work they DON'T do. Primer can hid a LOT! This is why I don't prime unless they ask for it, then, I send it out to get primed, with lots of before, during and after pics to prove to them I did my job. To put the entire car in epoxy after is about 600-700 dollars more on top of the media blast price. I can tell you, this is hard labor and intense work to yield the results you need, and I take too long, most shops would close up because they can't afford to keep a car 10+ days. But, I can b/c I have a US Army retirement check coming in, so, the stuff that goes out is pristine and could not be better anywhere for the same price.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info... appreciate the reply with explanation
 
rustymopar!!

lets see some more pics!! since i cant buy the car!!LOL:pottytrain1:

i blasted that orange RR car, and primed it $1600, (no roof/hood/floor out)
i think... it would cost more now!! :icon_confused: NOT A FUN JOB!
all cars need to be DA'd or scotch brited and vacuumed before primed!

Soda,, jury's still out,, we'll see in a few years if paint starts to come off these cars in the cracks etc!!
but a good body shop will scuff/DA the entire car!!

Donny love you work,, i got some good pics for you!! 3/4 inch bondo!! broke my $130 knife tip off!! uuRRRR
kinda like those orange RR fenders!!
jc -ohio
 
I did a deck lid in pure 100% Plastic, cleaned up nice, but, it was too smooth, way too smooth. Not friendly to painters this way. So, I reshot it with some of my special mix which gave it a profile -- perfect for painting. The jury really isn't still out on Soda, on Fiberglass cars (and boats) PPG will NOT warranty their products if Soda blasted. Its so fine, it gets in the glass, and its hard to get out. Plastic is the ONLY way to properly do a fiberglass unit. But, this RR looks good though!
 
So.....and I'm not trying to be a smartass here although it's gonna come out like that at first. LOL

It sounds like you're saying that no one on the entire planet knows how to do a good job blasting with sand and that no one on the entire planet can blast with sand without warping metal. I'm sorry, I don't buy that.

I've seen a LOT of good work that was done with sand. Don't get me wrong, I've read your posts and am not for one minute questioning how YOU do it. It's very obvious that you're a real professional who does a fantastic job.

I am just sayin that good jobs CAN be done with sand. I mean, what was blasting being done with 50 plus years before other types of media were introduced? Sand ain't the devil. lol Though I agree 100% if you're stupid, you can screw up an anvil. But if you're careful, you can use what you have. I've done a little of it myself. I gotta blast my car. I'm not sure what to use, but it won't be sand I don't believe. Not after readin all your posts. I'm probably not talented enough not to screw mine up with sand. lol.....but I am sure there are people who know how.
 
Oh and one more thing, if you don't mind. Since you obviously blast outside and use plastic, how in the heck do you reclaim? Or do you just let nature take its course? I'm curious since plastic doesn't deteriorate....at least some people say that. I think they're full of crap. ANybody that's ever walked along the side of the road can tell you plastic cups sure do thin out over time from ultra violet light exposure.
 
50 years ago? About that time, my dad was an aircraft mechanic for a big airline. They used crushed walnut shells for blasting radial engine parts.

:)
 
50 years ago? About that time, my dad was an aircraft mechanic for a big airline. They used crushed walnut shells for blasting radial engine parts.

:)

Yeah yeah.....I was comparin to plastic. That aint been around as long. lol
 
So,,
"the jury is really not out" - Are you implying that soda is no good for metal cars either? I used the Holdtight102 and a power washer to hit every nook an cranny. It washes out and neutralizes the soda, as well as prevents flash rusning for a period of time Weeks to months.
 
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