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Minii starter disaster job.

These starters that came out 15 years after the last big block was built, ( and therefore not designed for the BB) often do not fit in the curved pocket of the block. Clearancing required.
They have to bolt absolutely flat to the trans, with no interference from the block. It's not hard to make them fit properly.
I'm going to try another one, and this time I'm going to change the cable from the battery to the starter. That way I can cut it to length and properly setup the new starter.
 
I'm going to try another one, and this time I'm going to change the cable from the battery to the starter. That way I can cut it to length and properly setup the new starter.
That's the other option. Keep throwing more starters at it.
 
That's the other option. Keep throwing more starters at it.
I know. I just don't want to use another rebuilt starter only to have to change it again. The one that came with my car is still pretty clean and is a rebuild. It failed after a few months.
 
I'm going to try and see how two studs would work out. With these shorter starters it should slide in no problem. And I can see why you would have the stud on top, its a pain in the *** to line up that bolt.
Or hold and start to bolts with the stock starter
 
I've installed mini starters in all sorts of classic V8 Mopars. NONE had an interference issue, every one of them worked.
Am I lucky or just sexy ?

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We are talking about B/RB engines.
The luck will increase, with more different starters tried.
 
These starters that came out 15 years after the last big block was built, ( and therefore not designed for the BB) often do not fit in the curved pocket of the block. Clearancing required.
They have to bolt absolutely flat to the trans, with no interference from the block. It's not hard to make them fit properly.

This
 
Replaced my starter 2 year ago with a remanufactured exact replacement starter. Car is original under hood, no mods. New unit worked perfect, but getting that top bolt in is a real bitch...
 
Replaced my starter 2 year ago with a remanufactured exact replacement starter. Car is original under hood, no mods. New unit worked perfect, but getting that top bolt in is a real bitch...
I might not have a choice but to use a rebuilt starter if the one I bought from Rock Auto gives me the same problem. I have to say though, I got lucky, the starter decided to stop working in my driveway. I was going to use the car to go to a Drs office then to a Bodyshop for an estimate. The starter would only work if I banged on it with a hammer.
 
Didn't see it mentioned, but some mini starters are cast with a protrusion near the gear area that makes them not seat fully.
If you locate that and grind it down/off it might work.
The one I had however, would not even seat correctly with that casting as it was.
I could get one mounting point, but not both.
 
I have been trying all afternoon to install a new mini starter. I put in the stud and hooked up the wiring before I tried installing it. The problem I'm having is that the top bolt will not line up and let me thread it in. I've been trying for hours and I'm starting to fume a little. I'm thinking I should give up on the mini starter, I did have it in yesterday, but today I won't happen. I'm thinking about giving up and just having my old one rebuilt. I just worry about how long these rebuilds last, the one in the car when I bought it a few months ago was a rebuilt.
I have another starter related question. I want to replace the cable from the battery to the starter. What heat wrap did they use? I figure I might wrap it up until where it goes at the firewall.
 
The starter motor in my 77 318, lasted until about two years ago. It was till working, but showing signs of wear. Took it to the fixit shop, cost about $150, and we are good to go for another many years. The E Fixit shop can fix any problems for a long time to come.
 
Its time to stop screwing around and get the RIGHT starter:

Chrysler p/n 56027702AC (Denso 228000-7421) 99-03 Dodge Dakota/Ram/Ram van.
 
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