Done... Thanks.
Minii starter disaster job.
- Thread starter chrger1967
- Start date
Big block. Not sure of the year though. The estate I bought the car from didn't really know too much about what was done.
Precisely , it's a combo pack of grinding the starter gear boss and the block casting as shown.
The grinding is the easy part.. the checking carefully that the starter seats flush properly is the part that most don't or can't do.
70chall440
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 1:59 PM
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2018
- Messages
- 5,117
- Reaction score
- 7,341
- Location
- Yelm, Washington
So what is the application your starter is for? I have put them in all of my cars (3) plus a number of friends cars (4) and they have always worked. I use one from a 93-95 Dakota or 1500 with a 360. Typically I remove the top electrical connection adapter as well.
I wasn't screwing around though, that starter was supposed to fit.
The application is supposed to be for my 67 Charger with a 383. It bolted up fine, the wire was a few inches shorter, so I'm going to have to make a new cable for it now. It sounded like it was spinning and just not hitting the flywheel. I ordered a shield for the mini starter as there was a tiny gap at the bottom and I'm going to add another stud. I found I should be able to move the starter forward to clear both studs. That will make it much easier to install the mini starter.
70chall440
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 1:59 PM
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2018
- Messages
- 5,117
- Reaction score
- 7,341
- Location
- Yelm, Washington
I understand what you are putting the starter into, I was asking what the starter is supposed to be for (i.e. mini starters were not around in 67 obviously). There are a number of different "mini" starters out there that were all designed for different applications, some fit better than other (there are some that will not fit a muscle car very well or at all).I wasn't screwing around though, that starter was supposed to fit.
The application is supposed to be for my 67 Charger with a 383. It bolted up fine, the wire was a few inches shorter, so I'm going to have to make a new cable for it now. It sounded like it was spinning and just not hitting the flywheel. I ordered a shield for the mini starter as there was a tiny gap at the bottom and I'm going to add another stud. I found I should be able to move the starter forward to clear both studs. That will make it much easier to install the mini starter.
Mr. PNW
Well-Known Member
These are what I went with. The terminal cover looks simpler to work with the relocation kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007QBTUKW NEW AC Delco Starter for 95 Dakota with 360
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303833501832 Terminal Relocation Kit
https://www.manciniracing.com/mastsh.html Starter Shield
This is the one AC Delco shows for the 99 Dakota. They look just about the same except for the terminal cover. I’m assuming the same two bolt are found under the black cover. The kit above makes this irrelevant.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-337-1155-Professional-Starter/dp/B00S0DEFAA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007QBTUKW NEW AC Delco Starter for 95 Dakota with 360
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303833501832 Terminal Relocation Kit
https://www.manciniracing.com/mastsh.html Starter Shield
This is the one AC Delco shows for the 99 Dakota. They look just about the same except for the terminal cover. I’m assuming the same two bolt are found under the black cover. The kit above makes this irrelevant.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-337-1155-Professional-Starter/dp/B00S0DEFAA
I don't know really what it supposed to be for. I bought it from AutoZone's website and that's what it came up with. I bought if from them because it had a lifetime warranty and its easy to return if necessary. I guess I should have broken out the tape measure like I did with the one that came form Rock Auto. I just did a visual check with the old starter and the new one and they looked close. After measuring the two, the nose is the same length and from the top of the gear to the tip of the nose is the same on both.
70chall440
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 1:59 PM
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2018
- Messages
- 5,117
- Reaction score
- 7,341
- Location
- Yelm, Washington
Thats probably fine but I do know that there were differences in mini starters from various years. I found that 93-95 Dakota/Ram 360 variants work well.
Did you have to trim the shield when you put it in? I had to trim the hell out of it. After putting it in, I found a larger gap on the top is the starter this time. I’m gonna pull it out and put it in without the shield and see what happens. Looks like I might have to get the starter that came with the car rebuilt. My mini starter idea was a bust.
gkent
Well-Known Member
I have never heard of anyone having this much trouble with a starter !! I'm beginning to think the problem isn't the starter or the engine !!!
gkent
Well-Known Member
All this bullshit and the OP has yet to post a single photo of the parts he's working with. For all we know he's got a Chevy starter that he's trying to fit in Ford !!
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
I really did think the starter would be a problem with my 318 in the Tukvan. It was not. The E shop fixed it. It was heavy, but bunged in just fine. Dodge starters are geared, which I assume gives them the distinct sound. One advantage I have, is a bit more ground clearance. One disadvantage I have, is the location of the mighty 318.
Similar threads
