Motor home 727

[mopar 3 B]

Can not find that number. Due to the fact the transmission has a rear timing port. The round hole in the top of case above the torque converter it would be a 76-79. The only years for that hole I know of. There should be marks on the converter that can be seen when they pass the hole.

 

[bearman]

I will ddl check numbers tomorrow. So if i change the converter how will i know how to time it. Will the new one have a mark? Is there any thing else i can give you to help identify the trans.

 

[dvw]

Output shaft and front planet pinion carriers were changed in 76. What this means is you would have to find a third trans 76 or newer to salvage the output shaft from to utilize the 78 motor home trans.
Tail shaft case would work off your old trans. But why you would want to use it after the buying the third trans.

Internal 727 parts are not that expensive unless going with race parts. Buy time you replace all the parts for the 78 trans you could rebuild the original.

If you were going to combine the two, why not just use the front planet that comes with the donor output and tail shaft? I'd build 'em both and sell one to recoup the cost of the parts for both.
Doug

 

[mopar 3 B]

Are there timing marks on the engine timing cover?
On those years of bb/rb vans and motor homes the front timing mark are about impossible to see. Rear timing was as simple as removing the engine cover, the plug in the trans. and aiming the light in the hole.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Not much demand for BB/RB short shaft transmissions.

 

[bearman]

Thanks for all the help and yes timing marks are on the front cover. I get what you're saying it would be easy to set time from there.

 

[BBodyNoBody]

Thanks for all the help and yes timing marks are on the front cover. I get what you're saying it would be easy to set time from there.

Was wondering if you eventually installed the RV 727 successfully and if you might not mind sharing any tips, shopping list items and vendors for them etc that you might have compiled in the process? We bought a ‘70s RV 440 with 727 and have tentatively dropped them into a ‘72 Charger but I’m not clear on what mods we still need to make to get it hooked up to the rear end and if there might possibly be any kits to make that transition. We have the RV drive shaft and the car’s original drive shaft that was in use with its 318. We are also planning to convert from column to floor shift and are unclear on if we will need to plan on any tranny mods for that. Thanks.

 

[bearman]

I have not done anything with Trans yet but reading and talking with everyone. I know for fact tail shaft housing must be replaced. So that brings up overdrive yes or no. The converter needs to match up with engine mods. Now the guts on the rv Trans are alittle better than stock units. So if they are good and have low mileage you could reuse them. Valve again can be a street or strip option. Reverse valve etc if you are going to be a heavy hitter at the track. Going to floor shift is easy the new shifter comes with all the goodies to mount it. That doesn't mean you won't have modify a bracket or something. But now that you have it off the column you will need to replace the collar on the column so it looks like it was always a floor shift car. Depending on your column you may have to also remove some linkage again to make it look like a floor shift car.then you need to think about Trans cooler are going to use eternal or external where to mount it bracket for hard or soft lines. Many thoughts on what to do. Also don't forget your kick down or not. Look at the budget and what you want to do with the car. Hope this helps I'm sure someone will also chime in to help.

 

[bearman]

Drive line is next to last as you will do that after the install.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Drive line is next to last as you will do that after the install.

Depends on the trans to drive mounting.
Short tail shaft with two piece shaft may not work well. The bolt on yokes are not near is long as the slide in's and I never measured to see if a slide in would even work without bottoming before it's usefulness.

 

[bearman]

Long tail shaft and housing with slip yoke with the 1320 joints. Is what I have been told. Unless you put on a overdrive unit.

 

[BBodyNoBody]

I have not done anything with Trans yet but reading and talking with everyone. I know for fact tail shaft housing must be replaced. So that brings up overdrive yes or no. The converter needs to match up with engine mods. Now the guts on the rv Trans are alittle better than stock units. So if they are good and have low mileage you could reuse them. Valve again can be a street or strip option. Reverse valve etc if you are going to be a heavy hitter at the track. Going to floor shift is easy the new shifter comes with all the goodies to mount it. That doesn't mean you won't have modify a bracket or something. But now that you have it off the column you will need to replace the collar on the column so it looks like it was always a floor shift car. Depending on your column you may have to also remove some linkage again to make it look like a floor shift car.then you need to think about Trans cooler are going to use eternal or external where to mount it bracket for hard or soft lines. Many thoughts on what to do. Also don't forget your kick down or not. Look at the budget and what you want to do with the car. Hope this helps I'm sure someone will also chime in to help.

Thanks for the reply and good info. I appreciate it.

 

[Gunner1]

My engine and trans are both out of a 76 motor home. Trans is fully built with a u-joint and billet hub.

 

[dsd1967]

I did this change over last year. I had a tail shaft housing but the wrong tail shaft. A member on here set me up for $40.

Google 727 tail shaft and you will find an image showing the years and differences. There are some pretty clear visual differences that once you get the short tail shaft out you will be able to identify what you have.