MSD Distributor issue

[wilsonlar1]

Happy Halloween everyone. I'm a new member here and have a question about a 1970 Coronet that I am rebuilding. The engine is a 1969 383 (not original). The previous owner has installed an aggressive cam, performer 383 intake and was in the process of turning the car into a drag car. I have replaced the carb with a 650 Edelbrock and installed a new MSD Ready-to-Run Distributor w/vacuum advance and new MSD wires. The distributor was VERY tight going in and is so tight that I cannot turn it to set the timing. Have any of you encountered this and if so do you have a remedy?

 

[snakeoil24]

Never had this happen. Is the oil pump drive gear fully seated?

 

[coloradodave]

If you got the distributor to fully seat in the block, remove it , stuff a rag in the valley below the distributor hole. Take some 180-220 grit sandpaper or some emery cloth and evenly sand the inside of the hole to smooth it out. Don't be too agressive. Then lube the 'o' ring with some oil and try again. Good luck.

 

[oldbee]

Never heard of such a thing, but I'd go along with coloradodave.

 

[Mike67]

No trying to argue but I think I would sand on the distributor shaft first before risking getting contaminants in the motor if I were going to do it....
I would mic the collar and the bore to compare the two...jmo..

 

[PlagueOfBadgers]

Welcome to FBBO from New Jersey.

 

[texas69bee]

I did try using a MSD RTR but I couldn't get a spark and ended up returning it and using what I had. It did fit snug, mostly with the clearance with the cap and the head. Look to see this isn't causing any interference and forcing it to go in crooked. If you have another distributor handy, compare the 2 for any differences. I would also double check the oil pump gear being fully seated as well. I wouldn't be sanding on any part of the distributor in case you have to return it. You may even want to take it out and see how the shaft fits in the gear.

 

[68sprtsat383]

Welcome

 

[coloradodave]

I'll stick with what I recommended. Sanding lightly isn't going to produce any chunks. Being careful with a rag and dragging a magnet around the area under the hole will take care of any cast iron sanding dust. If you're really worried, soak the rag with WD-40 or oil first. Bet it will turn easily...

 

[wilsonlar1]

I'll stick with what I recommended. Sanding lightly isn't going to produce any chunks. Being careful with a rag and dragging a magnet around the area under the hole will take care of any cast iron sanding dust. If you're really worried, soak the rag with WD-40 or oil first. Bet it will turn easily...

As far as I can tell everything is seated as it should be. There is plenty of clearance between the cap and valve cover and intake. It's not hanging up on anything. I had to use the hold down to essentially pull the distributor down into the block in order to get it to fully seat. I will take your advice and remove it (should be fun) and do a little sanding on the block to gain clearance. Thanks for the advice. BTW, coloradodave, I'm in Centennial. Good to know someone local.

 

[wilsonlar1]

I did try using a MSD RTR but I couldn't get a spark and ended up returning it and using what I had. It did fit snug, mostly with the clearance with the cap and the head. Look to see this isn't causing any interference and forcing it to go in crooked. If you have another distributor handy, compare the 2 for any differences. I would also double check the oil pump gear being fully seated as well. I wouldn't be sanding on any part of the distributor in case you have to return it. You may even want to take it out and see how the shaft fits in the gear.

This seems more than snug. There is plenty of clearance around the cap and distributor body; it's not hanging up on anything. I just cannot get any movement when trying to set the timing. The car does start but now has a bad ground as it dies if I turn on the lights, turn signals etc...

 

[wilsonlar1]

As far as I can tell everything is seated as it should be. There is plenty of clearance between the cap and valve cover and intake. It's not hanging up on anything. I had to use the hold down to essentially pull the distributor down into the block in order to get it to fully seat. I will take your advice and remove it (should be fun) and do a little sanding on the block to gain clearance. Thanks for the advice. BTW, coloradodave, I'm in Centennial. Good to know someone local.

Of course now I see that you're in CA. Not so local.

 

[Car Nut]

aboard!

 

[67440chrg]

Welcome good luck.

 

[texas69bee]

With all that info it sounds like ColoradoDave may be correct.

 

[Budnicks]

Welcome to FBBO from NorCal

I'd probably recommend checking the diameter of the dist. 1st
than machining or sanding/clearancing on the distributor base too,
to fit in the blocks distributor hole...
it's probably variances in production from MSD, a bit too big/tight...

I personally wouldn't mess with the block, if not needed,
just to accommodate the MSD distributor...
Unless the block is the obvious problem, out of round, a ding, lip etc.
But that's just me, not trying to get in a pissing constest...

Good luck & happy Moparing

 

[Rick Carson]

Welcome from the frost line, hmm,if you sand the dist ,you own it.If you sand the block too much a stockdist could be sloppy in the hole,I'd take it back myself.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Great body style!
Thanks for joining the forum!

 

[coloradodave]

Welcome from the frost line, hmm,if you sand the dist ,you own it.If you sand the block too much a stockdist could be sloppy in the hole,I'd take it back myself.

Please note that I recommended NOT aggressively sanding the hole in the block. I'll bet it doesn't take much to free it up. Please give us the final outcome of this problem...
BTW, wilsonlar1, I used to live in Dolores, 50 miles west of Durango, hence the coloradodave name. Moved back to the coast in 2009.

 

[wilsonlar1]

Please note that I recommended NOT aggressively sanding the hole in the block. I'll bet it doesn't take much to free it up. Please give us the final outcome of this problem...
BTW, wilsonlar1, I used to live in Dolores, 50 miles west of Durango, hence the coloradodave name. Moved back to the coast in 2009.

I sent the same question to MSD to see if they had encountered the issue before and they suggested measuring the hole in the block and the diameter of the distributor. Their suspicion is the distributor was not properly milled. I'll be talking it out this weekend and letting them know. I'll keep you all posted as well. Thank you for all the responses. BTW, the 1970 Coronet seems to be drastically under-represented in aftermarket parts. Other than Classic Industries are there any other reputable sources for parts?