I have seen that around here. It works. Now they have companies that come around and put Fluid Film in them.. I have a buddy that does his vehicles every year. ZERO rust on any of them. Makes a mess though where they are parked for the first week..
I thought he was pouring the oil on the garage floor for whatever reason.
Agreed. If he posted his tranny blew a seal.. I would definitely have to think about what actually happened.
If the rust is really bad, and you intend to fix it someday, the oil is just going to be a pain in your ***. You can't weld on oil, can't paint on oil, can't even use the usual acid type rust converters on oil. So, you will spend a bunch of time and effort removing a bunch of dirty oil off of rust before you can deal with the problem. If it was mine, I would remove any heavy, crunchy, flakey rust with whatever grinder attachment you prefer and then hit it with any of the rust converters (usually phosphoric acid based) that turn some of the rust into iron phosphate and leave a rust resistant residue. I would also stay away from the heavy/thick products that try to leave a nice shiny black or silver finish because, eventually it is another product that will be difficult to remove when you get around to working on the rust repair. The phosphoric acid products will need to be neutralized/cleaned off before any painting, but it isn't that hard to do compared to cleaning off things like por 15.
Even if the oil was a good rust stopper, and you were prepared to do the cleaning needed later to get any paint to stick, why pour on used oil if you're worried about the smell? A can of new oil would be a lot fresher and less odorous.
Pretty good, give it a month or two. Probably busy formulating new questions for thread starters.
