Need help with IGN1 and IGN2 on full custom build

[FueledGarage]

I need some help wiring a stock reproduction ignition switch (in dash) in a 69 Charger. The harness is a Painless b-body harness and engine is. 440 with MSD 6AL and FITECH EFI.

It had a Touch N Go start which I️ am replacing because it is more trouble than it’s worth. Since the touch n go had only a single IGN output that is hot in run and start, that output was connected to an ignition relay that sent power to the MSD and FITECH. The accessory then fed the painless fuse box.

Now with the stock ignition switch, there is no true ignition (hot in run and start). I am new to Mopar so I didn’t know this. I understand when IGN1 and 2 have power. I’m just trying to figure out the best way to wire this.

I read on another forum that it’s possible to tie them together but the START and IGN2 have continuity in the crank position so that’s not really an option. I’m sure I can come up with something with relays and diode. Just looking for advice on the best way.

Again, to summarize, I have To energize an ignition relay for the EFI and the fuse box has ACC and IGN inputs for everything else. No ballast restistor or stock ignition.

Thanks,
Toby

 

[FueledGarage]

I hope someone sees this that knows what’s up. I thought popping an ignition switch in the car would be a simple job and now I’m stuck.

I think I could connect both IGN1 and IGN2 to my ignition relay with a diode in-line on each wire and that would solve it. I’m worried about diode size now. 3 amp diode enough.

Please help, thanks.

Toby

 

[Yatzee]

I need some help wiring a stock reproduction ignition switch (in dash) in a 69 Charger. The harness is a Painless b-body harness and engine is. 440 with MSD 6AL and FITECH EFI.

It had a Touch N Go start which I️ am replacing because it is more trouble than it’s worth. Since the touch n go had only a single IGN output that is hot in run and start, that output was connected to an ignition relay that sent power to the MSD and FITECH. The accessory then fed the painless fuse box.

Now with the stock ignition switch, there is no true ignition (hot in run and start). I am new to Mopar so I didn’t know this. I understand when IGN1 and 2 have power. I’m just trying to figure out the best way to wire this.

I read on another forum that it’s possible to tie them together but the START and IGN2 have continuity in the crank position so that’s not really an option. I’m sure I can come up with something with relays and diode. Just looking for advice on the best way.

Again, to summarize, I have To energize an ignition relay for the EFI and the fuse box has ACC and IGN inputs for everything else. No ballast restistor or stock ignition.

Thanks,
Toby

If there is no ballast resistor present you can actually tie them together, I did and I run pretty much the same setup. I used, or should I say, installed a separate relay of 20 amps energized by the ignition switch. The feed to this relay is directly connected to battery sourced 12 volts and fused at 15 amps. Usually some TBI's and most MSD boxes require the hot lead come directly from battery source with ignition triggering them to energize them. In this case use separate fusing methods for these two units in the larger hot leads.

 

[FueledGarage]

Thank you for the reply! I ended up connecting them together to the ignition relay and diode isolated the 2. Strange thing is that with my DMM the ST and IGN 2 terminals on the switch show continuity with each other in the crank position. Just for the hell of it I tried connecting them together without the diodes and I didn’t hear any starter over running. The engine is stupid loud though so I thought I would be on the safe side and install the diodes.

Toby

 

[Xp29h]

Little late but here's what I got.. Just last week I messed with all of this stuff too. I'm repairing entire car. Mostly done but just checking things and making sure all good. Well, went to fire it up and it cranked but no spark from msd. I should mention I'm using the Ron Francis kit. I got my test light out and ign 1 as going to fus box as designed and msd was in an acc. slot. When key was on had power, when turned to start, no power. Therefore no spark. I'm also using same stock switch. Ign 2 has no power in run but does in start position. I thought of running a jumper from that to the acc the msd is in but that could lead to power coming back to your switch when it was turned on and possible bumping the starter. So, what I did was ran a little jumper from ign 2 and tied it into ign 1 wire. That way when car cranks power to msd and fires up and when key is back in run position no juice from ign 2. No diodes used. I did purchase the kit just in case but no issues with starter. Good luck. Sounds like you got it.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

splice together Ign1 and 2 ( originally blue and brown wires ) somewhere somehow

with stock harness and ign system will need a bit diff work thought, using diodes or relays as mentioned