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need help with tranny swap

nick72

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ok, dad passed and i inherited his project. going from manual tranny to auto. pulled tranny, and find rear of crank is different than donor motor/tranny. rebuilt motor is the red block with the brass bushing. i need the center like on the other crank, big opening for the torque converter nose. i know the brass bushing comes out, but what about the rest, is it just an insert, or do i need to have the crank milled to accept the torque converter?
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That is a type of "bushing" for the input shaft of a manual transmission. Years ago when the cars were new, the crankshaft for most engines had a deeper hole that was fitted with a simple bronze or brass bushing to center the input shaft of the transmission. Over time, it became a habit of engines being fitted with cranks that did NOT have that deep hole machined to size so the workaround was that fat hockey puck looking bushing setup that was fitted into what is normally the recess for the hub of the torque converter.
You can try to pry it out but a method that I've read of is to pack the hole full of axle grease, then take a wooden broomstick handle or something like it that fits into the hole snugly. Tapping the stick with a hammer creates a hydraulic force that supposedly forces that whole "hockey puck" out of position.
I've never done it but have read of several that have. If the broomstick fits tightly, the force of the grease has to go somewhere.
I'd almost want to test this for myself just to actually see it happen.
 
When my small block came off the dyno, the shop had left the reducer bushing inside of the crank.

I didnt have a puller that would fit inside, so I used a very old school trick of bread and water to remove it.

You take lumps of bread (remove the crust), dip it in water, and jam it inside of the crank leaving about 1" of space. Then you take a rod with the same outside diameter as the bushing's ID and give it few medium taps and it'll fall right out. The bread/water acts like a hydraulic to push it out.

Remove the mashed bread, dry the crank, add grease. Done.

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O'Reillys will loan you a puller if the other methods don't work.
 
You can also use grease instead of using the bread and water mix. Fill the opening with grease then using a rod close to the inside diameter of the bushing hole give the rod a sharp rap with a hammer and it should come out.
Of course, using an inside puller is the best way if available.
 
thank you all for the info, relieved i don't have to have it machined. ill try a puller first as the grease method sounds a lil messy, it has to go somewhere and my luck my punch dill just be small enough for a grease shower
 
Are you talking about the bronze pilot bushing for the manual trans? Just leave it in there it doesn’t bother a converter. Many auto cars came with a pilot bushing in the crank.
 
tried a dry fit, the converter flange will fit, but the short nos[e on converter itself wont fit while the large flange is in the crankshaft.
I believe the bushing will not interfere with the torque converter. Try bolting it on.
 
Are you talking about the bronze pilot bushing for the manual trans? Just leave it in there it doesn’t bother a converter. Many auto cars came with a pilot bushing in the crank.
talking the big flange/hockey puck the bronze bushing is sitting in.
Are you talking about the bronze pilot bushing for the manual trans? Just leave it in there it doesn’t bother a converter. Many auto cars came with a pilot bushing in the crank.
 
That adaptor is for running a manual trans when the crank is not drilled for a pilot bushing. You also have to shorten the trans. input shaft to use it. As you found out, it needs to be removed to run an auto trans.
 
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