Need torque converter weights for 73 440 cast crank engine. Anyone know the specs?

[Nismobishi]

in-oz is balancing terminology (Weight in oz)x(inches from centerline) for a object rotating.

So you can convert to grams easy enough 1 ounce is 28.35 grams. Your balance weight will be lighter the farther it is from the centerline. I think a 440 cast crank convertor used two different weights over the years but they were the same balance: 77 and up used a heavier weight and closer to crank centerline; the other used the lighter weights but farther from crank centerline. I think 11 and 12 in the below quote are convertor diameter? The 12.9 in-oz is the overall balance and since the weight size is dependant how far it is from the crank centerline. Using the 12.9 in-oz should equate to 6.09" out for the 60 gram weights, 3.657" out for the later 100g weight.
Below are weight sizes for the stock convertors:

View attachment 1442509

View attachment 1442510

So it looks like I need 2 of these 56 gram weights then!

Torque Converter Parts & Transmission Parts-Tri Component:

 

[Nismobishi]

Sounds like you have the same problem I did. This fixed my vibration. View attachment 1442413

That would definitely solve my problem! I was just hoping to be able to weld on some weights through the inspection cover instead of pulling the trans.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

So it looks like I need 2 of these 56 gram weights then!

Torque Converter Parts & Transmission Parts-Tri Component:

Depends on where you weld them on. If it's a smaller convertor like a 10" you will not be able to weld on those weights in the same place as a 12" convertor, they wont be heavy enough. (12" has a smaller ring gear). But some simple math and you can figure it out. Also for a oem convertor they use the drain plug location as a reference...make sure your aftermarket convertor has the plug in the same place as a stock one. So I would suggest taking a closer look at what you have. At the end of the day you might end up with a flex plate. But, it's a interesting idea. Welding some weights on is what we would've done in my youth. Adapter flex plates were not available then.

 

[Nismobishi]

Depends on where you weld them on. If it's a smaller convertor like a 10" you will not be able to weld on those weights in the same place as a 12" convertor, they wont be heavy enough. (12" has a smaller ring gear). But some simple math and you can figure it out. Also for a aftermarket convertor they use the drain plug location as a reference...make sure your aftermarket convertor has the plug in the same place as a stock one. So I would suggest taking acloser look at what you have. At the end of the day you might end up with a flex plate. But, it's a interesting idea. Welding some weights on is what we would've done in my youth. Adapter flex plates were not available then.

Yes I will definitely do the math and figure out the weight size I need. Judging by pictures I've see the drain plug should be in the 6 o'clock position when the off set torque converter bolt is in the 10 o'clock position when viewing from the flex plate side of the converter.

 

[Babyblue66]

4 jack stands, a hydraulic jack and you can swap that flex plate in 2 hrs. Just do it.

 

[GTXDAN]

Here's the TC from my 77 MH 440 with a cast crank. That's a pretty big weight.

 

[Nismobishi]

UPDATE:

After much research, everyone's help here, and searching, I have determined that my converter needed 2 50oz weights. I found them on ebay and welded them on. NO MORE VIBRATIONS!!! for anyone with a 73 to 77 motor home cast crank 440 or 400, you need 2 50 oz weights in the locations below. Also you will need the weighted harmonic balancer that says for cast crank only, or in my case I got a Pro Products 80013 balancer and installed the largest weight.

My welds look like crap cause I had no room under the car but they are solid. You can actually see where there used to be a big 100oz weight that someone removed, that's how they did it in 78 and up, 1 big weight instead of 2 small weights.